Well some time back in January I Posed the question of What to do with my 91 Mauser.
And it was suggested since it was already digesting 7.65X53mm quite readily that it could be chambered for a much larger group of cartridges then was previously thought. It was suggested that .220 swift would be a good choice

Well the barrel showed up today And I just finished threading it to the action. It was a large ring barrel so I recut new threads. I need to wait for the reamer and head space gauges to show up next, then the new stock.
Barrel is an A&B in .220 swift F54 tapper 1-14" twist 24" long Very heavy barrel compared to what was on it. The new barrel weighs more then the whole gun did with the old barrel. I plan to turn this into my varmint rifle.
I have a nice set of bueler (sp?) rings and bases for this action. NO WEAVERS HERE

what are your trigger plans? I modded a timney to fit one. a little bit of a PITA as my brazing is hit and miss, at best.

well I think I can mod the receiver to take a stock timney for a 98. I just need to machine a spot for the sear pin. The only thing is the over all hight of the trigger may be to tall to fit inside the trigger guard.

Have you already ordered a new stock and if so would you mind saying where you got it? I have mod.91 that I love but I can't find anybody who makes replacement stocks for 91's and I've been looking for years

I know what you mean i was in the process of pluging a Rem 700 claro walnut stock to use when i did a search on this forum and found Richards microfit stocks at Rifle-stocks.com

The way they make stocks is a bit different. They have a set of standard shapes and they will inlet it to what ever action you want. They have a very extensive list of actions they inlet for as standard.
The 91 costs an extra $13 setup fee to inlet. Big deal for a $100 stock. You can go mild to wild with them from $99 to $400 and up

Not trying to plug the guys work as I have yet to order the stock (next pay day) but you can get a standard grade piece of english walnut for just over a hundred bucks add in a for-end tip for fifty bucks more and you're good to go.
I've picked the classic #102 pattern as it just looks close to an american custom classic stock.
I'd like to do something about my box magazine by adapting a 98 floor plate to it but thats down the road.
Right know it's get it shootable then worry about the details i can always go back and re inlet the stock for wider bottom metal latter.

New barrel, Bolt handle and knob, Cock on open conversion, 98 shroud, Winchester style safety, Timney trigger, New stock, bead blast and blue action, new scope, Talley or leupold rings and bases. I'm going to call this one my resume Because it will show just about every aspect of riflesmithing except for the stock work
I'm doing all the work myself in a well equipped garage

heh. I used richard's. it was a pretty piece at a fair price.

Good to hear. I was wondering about them. They look like they have their act together.
I can't wait to get this thing up and running.
I tore the barrel off of her back in 96 when I got married and "planed" to install a new barrel in a few weeks. Well married life killed that idea.
Divorced now so there's no excuses anymore.

KC, I've done several 1891 conversions such as you plan, including the hinged flush floorplate from a 1909 Argentine and the 3-position bolt sleeve safety among others. It's not quite as straightforward as you might think at first glance since no one makes such a 3-position bolt sleeve for the 1891 firing pin and adapting a true double-stack Mauser magazine requires VERY extensive alteration. Also as you've already discovered, the 1891 trigger guard is angled much closer to the bottom of the receiver than the later models and so triggers are a problem.

I'll be happy to help in any way I can including photos and more details of what's required for each change.
Regards, Joe

JD yeah the bottom metal would have to be a blend of a stock trigger guard and a 98. I was thinking of buying 98 bottom metal and floor plate and just machine and weld to fit. Or I could machine a new one from solid. I think I have a big enough chunk of 4140 around here. Either way it won't be easy for sure

kcstott, I like your thread. It prompted me to go to my safe and pull out a project I have been playing with in my spare time for awhile. it is an 1891 in 7mm08 and I am trying to come up with a way to run a double stack magazine up to a single point feed. It has been done with other weapons in the past but I believe they were all chambered for pistol cartridges. I am not likely to be able to contribute much of use since it is going back in the safe until I finish the prototypes of an action I designed and am currently working on. good luck and please post pictures later!

Barrel fitted waiting on the reamer to show up and a little time too.
Don't know about the double stack in to a single column but anything is possible. I was trying to get near a 96 style bottom metal. But the dimensions are all wrong I'd have to start with a stock that has much more wood in the belly and inlet the bottom metal my self.
I'm no wood worker so I'd have to be damn sure I got it right.

I'll post some pictures soon but it won't be till after the holidays

i just happen to have an argie 1891 project going on too. its fitted with a 26" long bull barrel in 22-250. i still need to order the stock, i'm going with a richards marksman stock & i still need to pick up a scope for it. i'll probably buy a used weaver k-10 or k-12 & i have a set of buehler rings & mounts to go on it.
for the safety all i did was ground another stop for the detent ball so it works like a fn left side safety. i have a talley bolt handle too that i neeed to weld on.

Man Now I really feel like I own something worth a darn. All these 91's coming out of the wood work here. I Love it.
But I'll brag a little I made my bolt handle on a CNC lathe so Naa

I think I may have an extra Richards Microfit stock in my POPS (Pile Of Project Stuff), would you like me to look and send pictures?

If I die with all my projects completed, it will be a miracle.

Yeah sure send pics and a price

Update 1891 Argentine Mauser in .220 swift 24"A&B barrel heavy tapper .875" at the muzzel
Pictures moved to.

Rifle Pics

It's coming along.
I still need to address the issue of a trigger, Glass bed action, Fit recoil pad for length of pull, Shape the for-end tip???? Cock on opening kit and install a Winchester style safety, Sand and finish the stock.

I think Modifying my action to accept a standard 98 trigger will be the best bet. Trigger guard will have to be fixed though.

I'm no wood worker so cut me some slack and the stock was only $70 so I was not expecting XXXX grade wood. I expect this rifle to cost me about $800 total when done including to original cost of the rifle of $175 about twenty years ago.
And the action was bubba'ed before I got it and the scope base will cover the "extra" hole.
I have a Buehler base and set of rings for it so it will not get a set of weavers

Cock-on-opening conversions for the 1891 are non-existent. You have a choice of either welding a cocking ramp/cam onto the original 1891 cocking piece or else converting to 1893/5 bolt internals and then using an 1893/5 aftermarket cocking piece made with a cocking cam.

I chose to convert to 1893/5 bolt internals, replacing the ribbed-&-threaded 1891 striker, cocking piece and bolt sleeve with the later-design parts. I then used an aftermarket cocking piece from Brownell's to do the upcock conversion, lapping the cocking cams to 1200 grit for a slick cocking action.

For a safety, I chose to use an FN left-side wing fitted to a shortened 1895 bolt sleeve. This shorter bolt sleeve suggested a shorter rear end on the cocking piece itself, to match the daintier appearance, and it worked out well.

Don't know what happened to the safety wing in the photo above, it's GONE! I'll try to take some more pics of the actual conversion and a parts comparison, will show later.
Regards, Joe

Yeah Joe that's what I was going to do, Get the guts from Dayton traister convert to 93 and later striker, firing pin, and shroud and go from there.

I still have the other thread you wrote saved with the flush floor plate that is a slick design

For those Interested

I have more Photos at the following link
Shop pics

I was able to locate a NOS Timney trigger and installed that. I've fit the winged safety. and finished the checkering. Just a little bit more detail work on the metal thats been beat to hell over the last 109 years. Then choices on bluing. Do it myself (Rust Blue) or send it out??
I'm undecided as I don't have anything big enough to boil water in to dunk the barreled action in I'd have to buy or build something and at the rate I may as well have Duncans do the Bluing. By the time I build something and but the chemicals I could have sent it out and got it back and cost would be near the same.

Looking for a piece of glass now. ????

Thanks for viewing

Looking good, KC!

A tip for rust-bluing long parts like barreled actions: get a long piece of 2"-3" dia PVC pipe and plug one end, then put the barrel inside, vertical, centered, and pour boiling water into the pipe to cover the barrel. Naturally the smaller the pipe the more convenient but it needs to be large enough to hold the heat fairly well. Not as good as a horizontal tank but better than nothing.
Regards, Joe

You can make a boil tank out of a section of rain gutter and two end caps.

just buy the tank AND LID from brownells ..
it going MUCH faster with the lid

Sadly several of my friends must site their tanks outside, for heat and lack of space considerations. Yes, a tank with lid will work wonders, especially in Ohio in winter, but unfortunately in Mississippi in summer it's frequently unbearable outside.

And that's BEFORE you fire up the burner under the tank!
Regards, Joe

would doubleset triggers from a 98 Mauser fit?

Rich

Rich, I've installed Mauser DSTs in my own 1891 and it's doable although a tight fit. The different angle of the 1891 bottom metal/TG means that the front end of the DST base is raised quite high when compared to the 98; my DSTs required that the front end of their base with screw be shortened significantly in order to clear the trigger, and the separate kicker/sear lever had to be reshaped. Not a difficult job but it is somewhat time-consuming.
Regards, Joe

Well to keep the steam off my machines. The tank would go outside. I'm just concerned the city will be on my butt setting up what look like a meth lab at my home.

Although I did do Anodizing at one time with no problems from the city.

Maybe it's time to just pony up and do it.

For those interested I just picked up my 1891 argy in .220 swift from the bluing guys. They did a fabulous job. Rifle looks great considering what it is and was. It's no multi thousand dollar show piece but it'll get the job done and it was my first center fire rifle
1891 Arg build
Just scroll to the bottom

Nice looking rifle.

Thank you Sir.
Now lets see what kind of groups she'll shoot.