A question for those of you that use Marinetex for bedding. Which product is the better for bedding actions, the grey or the white?

grey, which is all i use anymore, over all other bedding products-- the white is actually flexible

I tried the white once and all I know about it is that it can't be colored. Whatever they use for pigment is so pronounced that you would have to mix it 50/50 with pigment to get any appreciable change in color.

Black only. I do wish they made an uncolored product though. Unfortunately they have some sort of one-sided-fixation that their product should be used for filling holes in boats. Not gunstocks. Silly liberal fawkers!

Is the 2 oz kit enough to bed one rifle thought I would give it a try, have always used devcon and J_B, in the past.

It would depend on how good of a job you want to do. If you are just bedding the lug and the rear tang and you are not to fussy about bubbles then yes, it should work fine.

Because people are paying me and expect a certain amount of quality, I do the entire receiver and one inch of the barrel. I find that the minimum that I can get away with is usually 75ml to 100ml. That's 2.5 to 3.5 ounces to guaranty that I won't get bubbles and voids. Using less than that usually ends up with a lot of problem areas and it all has to be milled out and redone which costs over twice as much as doing it once, properly.

Most of the cost of bedding is in the labor to prep, mill toe holds, clean up and make bootyfull.

Thanks for the replies. What kind of time frame for total cure are you getting with the gray?
Thanks again, Dale

thanks for the reply going to try it on a rem. 581 22. with a pillar

Bed the barrel as well. Then move the trigger toggle point up about 1/10th of an inch to cut the weight down to a pound. You have to lose the safety if you do that.

do you mean bed full length or 1" or so in front of the receiver, thanks for trigger info was going to use ball point pen spring but i'll look into moving the pivot point .

Free floating very seldom seems to make them shoot better than a full length bed. The 581 receiver and barrel are both very spindly and springy. The cut for the ejection point and the magazine recess creates a bad soft spot in the receiver. The original 581 was not drilled and tapped so drilling and tapping it and using a good, solid, 1 inch scope with screw on bases and rings will help stiffen them up. Also the 581 has only one tang screw and I have found that they shoot better if fully bedded from from to back including the barrel to prevent teeter tottering in the bedding with trigger pull. I have also noticed that they often shoot better with a minimum of torque on the tang screw. The 581 was one of my pet peeves early on in life and I have built a lot of top end gopher vanquishers on them. They can be made to shoot VERY well, given a bit of playing.

thanks for the advice spearchucker any other tips you care to share would be much appreciated, guess i sort of hijacked the marine tex thread. sorry!

Shilen rim fire barrels. Cut one inch off each end and center drill them slightly with a piloted center cutting reamer. Drive a soft brass or aluminum plug into each end (one end at a time of course) 2 tenths of an inch, knock them back out with a cleaning rod and mic them. Make the tight end the muzzle. 22s shoot better choked for some reason.

I don't put much faith in the old adage that a barrel should be shot in the direction that the cutter or button was pulled. Some guys will have fits if you tell them stuff like that. But backwards, frontwards makes no narry to me. I have shot lot's of barrels backwards and they seem to work fine with no additional fouling.

thanks for sharing info always read your replies.

I use gray Marine Tex only..

For a barrel channel on a perfectly beded stock I use a paint coat of liquid Brownells clear glass, its really pretty and seals the wood better than anything else.

Thanks Ray for getting back on subject. I appreciate the knowledge.