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Tigging up some screw holes in Savange 99 receiver
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I have a Savage 99 with 6 badly done scope mount holes I'd like to get tigged up and have the receiver refinished. Anyone know someone who can do this work and make it look nice?

Thanks JKS
 
Posts: 721 | Registered: 03 March 2005Reply With Quote
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You might get a few more responses if you rephrase the question. Wink


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Posts: 1514 | Location: Camp Verde, AZ | Registered: 13 December 2005Reply With Quote
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I wish you lived closer

My wife's boyfriend TiG welds for a living


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Rolland:
You might get a few more responses if you rephrase the question. Wink


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Posts: 721 | Registered: 03 March 2005Reply With Quote
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Pits, voids, craze and sink

TiG welding on finished work should only be done by a skilled welder


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Its best to drive a red hot pin in the holes, then grind them flush then tig them. makes a really clean job..Usually $20 top $30 per hole locally..Depends on if the holes go thru the action, that would require a broach of some sort and cost a lot of money I suspect..I only know one guy that might do that, but it might not be required to function..


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Posts: 42320 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Ted Thorn
Could one just fill the entire hole with welded material melting the screw threads in as one builds up?
Is the plug merely a filler to cut down on weld time thus saving money?

Any advantages./disadvantages to either method?

Just seems that welded material throughout would be stronger.
Maybe what I do not understand is . . . strong enough is STRONG ENOUGH



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Posts: 4271 | Location: TN USA | Registered: 17 March 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by TCLouis:
Ted Thorn
Could one just fill the entire hole with welded material melting the screw threads in as one builds up?
Is the plug merely a filler to cut down on weld time thus saving money?

Any advantages./disadvantages to either method?

Just seems that welded material throughout would be stronger.
Maybe what I do not understand is . . . strong enough is STRONG ENOUGH


There is absolutely no reason to plug the hole and then weld.

A TiG guy worth his salt will weld it shut with filler rod and nothing else. Probably less then 50 amps and about sixty seconds per hole.


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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If you do any welding around the holes in the rear you will alter the heat treatment of the locking area of the receiver. Reheat treatment will be required.


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Posts: 1551 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of ted thorn
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quote:
Originally posted by Craftsman:
If you do any welding around the holes in the rear you will alter the heat treatment of the locking area of the receiver. Reheat treatment will be required.


Not always true

With our Plasma pulse TiG I can weld with nearly no heat transfer at all

It welds so cool you can lay your hand on the parent metal and never feel a temp change


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Craftsman:
If you do any welding around the holes in the rear you will alter the heat treatment of the locking area of the receiver. Reheat treatment will be required.


Unless you are really, really, bad about heat control, it is darn near impossible to weld on the rear bridge and soften the front locking lugs. And if you can't control the heat well enough, you have no business welding on receivers.




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Posts: 4869 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of eagle27
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quote:
Originally posted by ted thorn:
quote:
Originally posted by TCLouis:
Ted Thorn
Could one just fill the entire hole with welded material melting the screw threads in as one builds up?
Is the plug merely a filler to cut down on weld time thus saving money?

Any advantages./disadvantages to either method?

Just seems that welded material throughout would be stronger.
Maybe what I do not understand is . . . strong enough is STRONG ENOUGH


There is absolutely no reason to plug the hole and then weld.

A TiG guy worth his salt will weld it shut with filler rod and nothing else. Probably less then 50 amps and about sixty seconds per hole.


How much heat is involved in 60 seconds welding, a minute each hole, a lot of welding for a small hole? Or was that six seconds per hole?
 
Posts: 3944 | Location: Rolleston, Christchurch, New Zealand | Registered: 03 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Picture of ted thorn
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quote:
Originally posted by eagle27:
quote:
Originally posted by ted thorn:
quote:
Originally posted by TCLouis:
Ted Thorn
Could one just fill the entire hole with welded material melting the screw threads in as one builds up?
Is the plug merely a filler to cut down on weld time thus saving money?

Any advantages./disadvantages to either method?

Just seems that welded material throughout would be stronger.
Maybe what I do not understand is . . . strong enough is STRONG ENOUGH


There is absolutely no reason to plug the hole and then weld.

A TiG guy worth his salt will weld it shut with filler rod and nothing else. Probably less then 50 amps and about sixty seconds per hole.


How much heat is involved in 60 seconds welding, a minute each hole, a lot of welding for a small hole? Or was that six seconds per hole?


If I were welding it....almost no heat would transfer past the bead and the bead could be touched with your bare hand as fast as you could set the TiG torch down.....and yes.....one minute per hole approx.


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Since the OP asked about a Savage 99, the bolt locks at the rear and care would have to be taken with heat control. Considering the size and amount of welding to fill a screw hole, not an issue for a good welder. If it were just one or two holes, you could degrease the threads, red loctite a base screw in, cut it off a thread or two proud with a Dremel cut off wheel and use a steel punch and hammer to peen it in place. With careful dressing down, it can be hard to detect. With 6, I'd find a good welder!


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Posts: 2278 | Location: Texas | Registered: 18 May 2004Reply With Quote
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