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Rifle Accuracy: Crown Type?
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffeosso:
quote:
Originally posted by fyj:
I’ve used round inserts a bunch to turn or groove a work piece while being fed perpendicular to the axis of the turning material, but they are not designed for plunge cutting into an existing hole (like the bore of a rifle) where they are being fed into the work piece in line with the axis of the turning work.
it's not a plunge cut, which is probably where the communication is breaking down. you take a small round insert, put it on a tool holder, cut from the INSIDE of the bore (it does not touch anything) to cut towards the outside of the barrel. it is NOT a giant radiused muzzle.. it's a radius turned INTO the barrel, towards the outside. just perdactly as if you took a small boring bar and decided to cut a square shoulder from the bore to the outside ... just a little step. sorry, if that doesn't splain it good enough, you'll just need to wait till i have time to post pics.
quote:
The turning material would be in a constant state of being improperly presented to the cutting face of the tool.
sorry, no
quote:


maybe we are talking about something other than crowning
you are thinking of a constant cut, rather than a step. that's why it's DIFFERENT
quote:

as I understand it, or maybe I’m just to dense to understand how you are using those inserts to do that job.
doubt it's dense, it' just being used to CUT a shoulder, not plunge
quote:



I’m not familiar with what you call a Huntingcat‘s crown
huntingcat is a poster
quote:

so maybe that’s where I’m getting lost.

Never mind. Roll Eyes


jeffe


Can’t wait to see some pictures because I am having a really hard time visualizing this procedure. What size (diameter) round insert are you using?
 
Posts: 466 | Location: South West USA | Registered: 11 December 2006Reply With Quote
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don't know how to make it clearer.

imagine a step cut shoulder, that's square..

here.. think of if you where turning a reloading die for an HH brass, with a boring bar...

"see" the little cut made for the belt? nice little square step.

make that round.

so, until i take a pic and post it, this is my last post on the subject. I believe one could read what is posted and understand. Sorry, out of "wantu" today
jeffe


#dumptrump

opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
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Posts: 38612 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffeosso:
don't know how to make it clearer.

imagine a step cut shoulder, that's square..

here.. think of if you where turning a reloading die for an HH brass, with a boring bar...

"see" the little cut made for the belt? nice little square step.

make that round.

so, until i take a pic and post it, this is my last post on the subject. I believe one could read what is posted and understand. Sorry, out of "wantu" today
jeffe


I know what a step shoulder is but I am having a hard time understanding how you cut one on a muzzle with the tool you suggested. If they made round inserts small enough in diameter to do a facing cut across something the size of a rifle barrel muzzle I would think you’d be better off just using a regular facing tool with a slight radius on the tip.

I guess I’ll just have to wait for your pictures to clear up my confusion. Thanks for your patience.
 
Posts: 466 | Location: South West USA | Registered: 11 December 2006Reply With Quote
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Malm always hates it when I post Saeed's original experiment. It just shows what myths are made of.

Saeed's Experiment


Larry

"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson
 
Posts: 3942 | Location: Kansas USA | Registered: 04 February 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by larrys:
Malm always hates it when I post Saeed's original experiment. It just shows what myths are made of.

Saeed's Experiment


What are you talking about?
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by fyj:
quote:
Originally posted by jeffeosso:
...imagine a step cut shoulder, that's square..

jeffe


I know what a step shoulder is but I am having a hard time understanding how you cut one on a muzzle with the tool you suggested. If they made round inserts small enough in diameter to do a facing cut across something the size of a rifle barrel muzzle.
it's not ACCROSS it's small enough to cut a step. liek 3/16diameter... with is 3/32r


quote:
I would think you’d be better off just using a regular facing tool with a slight radius on the tip.

does the same thing, and can be done that way

I guess I’ll just have to wait for your pictures to clear up my confusion. Thanks for your patience.[/QUOTE]


#dumptrump

opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 38612 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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QUOTE]Originally posted by larrys:It just shows what myths are made of.

Saeed's Experiment[/QUOTE]

quote:
quote:
Originally posted by Marc_Stokeld:
I remeber some gun rage did tests on a rifle where they tried different crowns and then purposefully damaged the crowns and tested for accuracy with each situation. The severely damaged crowns shot to a different point of aim, but accuracy was about equal to the high quality crowns.

Then posted by Malm:
My problem is with the sentence that I have highlighted in red. That statement is utter bullshit


Seems once again we have a conflict in opinion verses tested data.
 
Posts: 770 | Location: colorado | Registered: 11 August 2003Reply With Quote
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Boy, now you really have me confused. Unless I missed the one you’re talking about the smallest round cutters in the link you posted are a half inch in diameter. How do you cut a 3/32†radius with a half inch diameter round cutting tool? bewildered
 
Posts: 466 | Location: South West USA | Registered: 11 December 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by fyj:
Boy, now you really have me confused. Unless I missed the one you’re talking about the smallest round cutters in the link you posted are a half inch in diameter. How do you cut a 3/32†radius with a half inch diameter round cutting tool? bewildered


I give up. you are either being purposely difficult or you don't get it. it's not my malfunction if you dont' understand, I am sorry.

get a catalog (i have repeated where), look up the various cutters available, as i OBVIOUSLY can't answer your questions, or, more specifically, don't have the patience to lead you along the way.


how would you cut a 3/16 dia groove into the face of a turning 1" aluminum barstock?

now, do that with a boring bar.

the end/.. it's really pretty simple
jeffe


#dumptrump

opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 38612 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by duikerman:
Seems once again we have a conflict in opinion verses tested data.


No one is conflicted but you. Unlike you, my comments are based on actual experiences. I freely share my time with members of this forum in an effort to help those who are intertested solve some of their problems. I don't give two shits about you, or, what you think. My interest lies in those I can help, not those who are beyond help...
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Wow, I was just trying to learn something new that I was unfamiliar with.

You said that you used a round cutter to cut muzzle crowns and when I asked about it you directed me to a web site and gave me the part numbers for the cutters. I looked them up and according to the specs the smallest one they have is one half inch in diameter. That is way to large to do what you said could be done with it, so I just asked for some clarification so I could understand how you did this with the tool you said you used.

If you made a mistake, or mis-spoke all you had to do was say so and that would have been that.
Obviously I have struck a nerve here. Sorry about asking questions concerning things you claim to have done.

Your quote:

“At times, it is amusing to read "opinions", if only to recognize the experience of the posterâ€

That part of your posts I understand perfectly and can say that I totally agree with it after this exchange with you.

Have a wonderful day.
 
Posts: 466 | Location: South West USA | Registered: 11 December 2006Reply With Quote
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fyj, welcome to the world of gun guru jeffeosso , he lives up to his quote very well. rotflmo

“At times, it is amusing to read "opinions", if only to recognize the experience of the posterâ€
 
Posts: 1605 | Location: Wa. State | Registered: 19 November 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by jimmyd223:
fyj, welcome to the world of gun guru jeffeosso , he lives up to his quote very well. rotflmo

“At times, it is amusing to read "opinions", if only to recognize the experience of the posterâ€


on jeffs sig its says something about we band of bubbas, sounds like he living more up to that than the quote you mention cheers


in times when one needs a rifle, he tends to need it very badly.....PHC
 
Posts: 1755 | Location: slc Ut | Registered: 22 December 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by larrys:
Saeed's Experiment

Thanks for posting that larrys...I remember reading it a long time ago.....and it was very surprising as most would assume the crown was very critical.

In all honesty, it's so easy to make a "perfect" crown that one just does it and never gives it a thought.

Saeed's experiments do, however, suggest that maybe the crown can be damaged without harm to accuracy.....or, just because the crown is dinged is no reason to immediately fix it if the accuracy isn't lost.

It has to make one wonder how many myths he is working with every day!


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Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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I hope my input helps and does not make things worse. First of all I am not a gunsmith or even close to one but I have been experimenting with guns for a long time. For the last decade or so I have been re cutting crowns on rifles that would not shoot well after many other of the usual things that we do were tried.

At first I started using a brass screw and grinding compound but then revered to a tapered grinding wheel as provided by Dremel. I spin the tapered wheel in the crown from zero up to low rpm and back to zero with a variable speed hand held drill.

On every crown that I have done accuracy improved in a dramatic fashion. The last one was a formerly new Kimber 8400 Montana in 270 WSM.

I could not find any real defects before I started on each crown. I used only a magnifying glass. On the crown shown below which is on a 264 WM Westerner it did not work on the first cut which was very shallow and I ripped the very deep version you see in the picture below that I call a Mauser crown.


Join the NRA
 
Posts: 5543 | Registered: 09 December 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Savage99:
On every crown that I have done accuracy improved in a dramatic fashion.


Regardless of the results of those well meaning tests mentioned here, that has been my experience as well.
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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I have tried all different configurations of crowns on many BR rifles. It don't make any difference. I want a crown that is perpendicular to the bore with a sharpe edge. I use a very sharp cemented carbide tool that has a chip breaker ground into it so all the angles from the tip are sharp. I do not lap my crown!
Butch
 
Posts: 8964 | Location: Poetry, Texas | Registered: 28 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Those test photos are interesting, but I have some observations that I haven’t seen mentioned. So for whatever they’re worth here they are. My apologies up front if I’m stepping on any toes or ruffling any feathers.

1. The picture of the crown prior to damage being inflicted shows a pretty rough surface. It appears to have been done by a hand turned cutter that was chattering or something, or someone used an improperly sharpened bit and some bad technique to cut it on a lathe. Notice the overall rough surface, ridges and rings.

2. The angle of the picture doesn’t really allow you to see if the crown was cut concentric and perpendicular to the bore or not.

3. The “before†groups sizes ain’t really nothing to write home about, averaging just barely under MOA with several bullet weights shooting over MOA.

If I was doing such a test (which admittedly I’m not) I would start out with known entity. A real accurate tack driver with a perfectly executed crown, then start the damage experiment from there. Hell, if you’re starting out with a rough, non concentric crown, and a rifle shooting those size groups the “damage†your doing might actually be helping to fix it! Smiler
 
Posts: 466 | Location: South West USA | Registered: 11 December 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by fyj:
Those test photos are interesting, but I have some observations that I haven’t seen mentioned. So for whatever they’re worth here they are. My apologies up front if I’m stepping on any toes or ruffling any feathers.

1. The picture of the crown prior to damage being inflicted shows a pretty rough surface. It appears to have been done by a hand turned cutter that was chattering or something, or someone used an improperly sharpened bit and some bad technique to cut it on a lathe. Notice the overall rough surface, ridges and rings.

2. The angle of the picture doesn’t really allow you to see if the crown was cut concentric and perpendicular to the bore or not.

3. The “before†groups sizes ain’t really nothing to write home about, averaging just barely under MOA with several bullet weights shooting over MOA.

If I was doing such a test (which admittedly I’m not) I would start out with known entity. A real accurate tack driver with a perfectly executed crown, then start the damage experiment from there. Hell, if you’re starting out with a rough, non concentric crown, and a rifle shooting those size groups the “damage†your doing might actually be helping to fix it! Smiler


This was a standard factory rifle, and what we wanted to find out was the effect of a damaged crown would have on its accuracy.

Please bare in mind we are talking about practical hunting accuray, not bench rest.

We have already started shooting the 22 BRNO rimfire at 50 yards, and I will post the results as we go along.


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Posts: 67465 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Saeed:
We have already started shooting the 22 BRNO rimfire at 50 yards, and I will post the results as we go along.


I agree with fyj, I too would think the best place to start any accuracy test would be to begin by cutting a fresh crown to provide a base line from which to compare future group results as the muzzle damage increases.
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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malm,

I will do that in due course.

I will shoot the rifle as it came out of the box, do some damage to the crown, use a hacksaw to cut the damaged part off, use a case de-burring tool to remove any sharp edges on the new end. damage it more severly, shoot; put in the lathe and cut that part off, shoot it again, and so on.


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Posts: 67465 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Saeed:
malm,

I will do that in due course.

I will shoot the rifle as it came out of the box, do some damage to the crown, use a hacksaw to cut the damaged part off, use a case de-burring tool to remove any sharp edges on the new end. damage it more severly, shoot; put in the lathe and cut that part off, shoot it again, and so on.


Don't forget to take it skiing. Big Grin A lot of guns that come through here with muzzle damage are the results of folks taking headers off their ATV's and plugging their muzzles just enough to buldge the very end. The type of bulge I'm refering to is one that is difficult to see because it is so close to the edge of the crown.
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Saeed, I am wondering if there would be much change in, say doing the same tests with a 30 caliber weapon insted of the 22 LR. Not that I want to see you destroy a 30 caliber gun Big Grin but just thinking about the Velocity and the effect between a 22LR and a 30 cal.
 
Posts: 1605 | Location: Wa. State | Registered: 19 November 2001Reply With Quote
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We have plenty of 308 rifles here that we change the barrels of.

I might just take one and do a similar test on it before discarding the barrel.

Again, I would like to stress that we are only interested in seeing what changes occur on a hunting rifle, with normall ammo.


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Posts: 67465 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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malm,

Many years ago, I had a single shot 410 shotgun. I did just what you have seen others do. I somehow managed to get some sand into the barrel, and bulged it about 3 inches from the end.

My grandfather hacked that part of, and that shotgun was almost useless afterwards.

We never knew anything about chokes then.


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Posts: 67465 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Saeed:
malm,

Many years ago, I had a single shot 410 shotgun. I did just what you have seen others do. I somehow managed to get some sand into the barrel, and bulged it about 3 inches from the end.

My grandfather hacked that part of, and that shotgun was almost useless afterwards.

We never knew anything about chokes then.


Other than the looks, you would have probably been just fine leaving the bulge where it was. Years ago that would be referred to as a "Jug" choke. Big Grin
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Saeed, I second the thought to do the test on something other than a 22lr. The 'theory' is that the escaping high pressure gases tip the bullet upon exit from a damaged crown. There isn't much high pressure gas left in a 22lr.

To maximize the effect pick a worst case scenario, something like a 7mm Ultramag or 30-378. The more overbore, the better. If you don't see a significant effect from a bad crown from that, you can make some real conclusions.

The more accurate the rifle, the better also. Finding an extra .1" from a 1.5MOA rifle is very hard, finding it from a .2MOA bench gun is much easier. I know, sacrilidge in destroying a benchrest class barrel, but all in the name of (pseudo) science. Sounds like fun in any case!


Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense.
 
Posts: 1780 | Location: South Texas, U. S. A. | Registered: 22 January 2004Reply With Quote
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I wasn’t trying to start any trouble, or insult anyone, was just voicing an opinion that such tests might be more valuable by starting with a well crowned truly accurate rifle.

I didn’t know that this criteria would automatically exempt hunting rifles. bewildered

It was just that after I looked at the pictures of the crown and saw the size of the groups that were fired I thought that it would have been interesting to start by redoing the crown to see if that possibly would improve the accuracy, then start damaging it to see if the now known accuracy would start to fall off, stay the same, or maybe even improve.

As malm and others have stated they have personal experience with rifles that shot much better after being crowned properly. As far as any of us know at this point perhaps a poorly done crown is even worse than a damaged crown in some cases.

Interesting stuff either way.
 
Posts: 466 | Location: South West USA | Registered: 11 December 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by fyj:
As far as any of us know at this point perhaps a poorly done crown is even worse than a damaged crown in some cases.

Interesting stuff either way.


That's an intereting thought. Maybe the guns that show improvements to accuracy when one purposefully damages a crown, does so because the original factory crown was worse. Big Grin Now that, I could believe. thumb
 
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