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What is the least shitty mauser 2 stage trigger for a hunting rifle?
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What do you think?
 
Posts: 7782 | Location: Das heimat! | Registered: 10 October 2012Reply With Quote
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The stock military cleaned up a little.


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Posts: 3866 | Location: Eastern Slope, Colorado, USA | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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They are all the same; NONE are shitty, as you intimate. They are very well designed and work as intended; it is just that Americans won't train with them and have come to expect a one pound target trigger, for hunting. I get that question all the time.
Now, depending on the cocking piece and trigger cam tolerances, the second stage can vary slightly. That can be polished and maybe, slightly reduced in depth. As LnB said, cleaned up.
I use mostly standard military two stage triggers on my Mausers. I know how to use them.
As with anything, you have to train with them to become proficient. Most guys won't do that.
I have a friend who always jerks the entire two stages at once, no matter how much I beat him about it. He can't be trained. He is not a bad shot. He is why single stage triggers were invented.
 
Posts: 17443 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by loud-n-boomer:
The stock military cleaned up a little.


And knowing how to properly operate it.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
They are all the same; NONE are shitty, as you intimate. They are very well designed and work as intended; it is just that Americans won't train with them and have come to expect a one pound target trigger, for hunting. I get that question all the time.
Now, depending on the cocking piece and trigger cam tolerances, the second stage can vary slightly. That can be polished and maybe, slightly reduced in depth. As LnB said, cleaned up.
I use mostly standard military two stage triggers on my Mausers. I know how to use them.
As with anything, you have to train with them to become proficient. Most guys won't do that.
I have a friend who always jerks the entire two stages at once, no matter how much I beat him about it. He can't be trained. He is not a bad shot. He is why single stage triggers were invented.


dpcd...you're wasting your time
 
Posts: 3675 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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I know but I can't help it.
I should have said "none is"; day is not starting off well....grammer wise.
 
Posts: 17443 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Mauser 2 stage triggers are also real sensitive to the condition of the trigger pin and sear pin. I always replace these with new ones and if they aren't large enough to provide a wobble free fit I custom make larger pins that will from stock. Occasionally you may need to drill out and clean up the sear, trigger, and receiver trunion holes for a larger pin.
 
Posts: 3873 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Are the ones made by Recknagel any good, are they two stage?

Is the Bix and Andy tough enough to hunt with?

I have about every flavor of $200-500 trigger on a 700 clone that you can have; Huber, CG Extreme, Geissle, Tubb and I have owned a couple of flavors of Timney. I know Bix and Andy make a two-stage for a 700 and a Mauser, just never tried either one.

I am a huge fan of the Tubb and CG Extreme. The rest are not very nice.

Not expecting a trigger as good as the Tubb or CG Extreme. I actually don't own a rifle other than my Blaser R8 that has a single stage trigger.

If I could get something like a K-31 trigger pull I would be over the moon.
 
Posts: 7782 | Location: Das heimat! | Registered: 10 October 2012Reply With Quote
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Tom (dpcd), just convinced me to not replace my military trigger with a Timney on a 308 Win sporter he modified for me. I can confirm he knows what he’s talking about, as my military two stage Trigger is fantastic. He does magic on a military trigger. I couldn’t ask for a better Trigger on a hunting rifle.


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Mike

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Posts: 1004 | Location: Middle Georgia | Registered: 06 February 2011Reply With Quote
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I bought 3 second hand mauser sporters; a Parker Hale, a Zastava and one of the ones that Voere turns into a nice factory sporter. We will see how they go when they get here.
 
Posts: 7782 | Location: Das heimat! | Registered: 10 October 2012Reply With Quote
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The vast majority of my Mauser hunting rifles use the Military two stage trigger, slicked up.




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Posts: 4869 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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If you are expecting a trigger to break like an icicle at one pound, you won't like it.
If, however, you trained on a good two stage trigger for a few months, you might.
They work fine and for hunting are as good or better than any $700 trigger. (Disclaimer; I have never seen a 700 dollar trigger, nor can I even imagine why a trigger costs that much. Or even a $300 one; nor have I owned or even seen any of the special triggers mentioned above. I'm sure they are worth the money to some). How about they work as well as any trigger.
But ONLY if one trains on it. Which Americans won't do, I find.
 
Posts: 17443 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Everybody has their own preferences but I like the two stage trigger as issued on Mausers and the like. They may have all kinds of take up and aren't light but I've never on any of the rifles I've owned had one that felt gritty like some single stage triggers on mass produced sporting rifles do.

Maybe because I've always had at least one rifle around with it so it feels normal to me. Just pull through the first stage then use a smooth increasing pressure on the trigger and they go off without disturbing my aim. Plus they were designed to deal with battle conditions so no other design will ever be as reliable.


Roger
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Posts: 2819 | Location: Washington (wetside) | Registered: 08 February 2005Reply With Quote
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Years of competitive shooting with M1's and M14's have made using a two stage trigger second nature. You have to be careful with a single stage trigger, however, lest you try to take up the non-existent slack on it.

BTW, Jewell used to make a two stage trigger for Model 70's. I used them on all my bolt action target rifles. They may still do, for all I know.
 
Posts: 1748 | Registered: 27 March 2007Reply With Quote
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The military trigger two stage is ok. I once had one that had a threaded boss welded to it to adjust the slack with a set screw. But, that was long ago. Sorry, no picture.


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Posts: 5310 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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A similar one.


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Posts: 5310 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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... since this is already a dog's breakfast of a thread, i'll though in that ALL service rifle shooting has to be done with a 2 stage ..

my only complaint about a bolt gun 2 stage, with it being a reasonable trigger, is they are sometimes so long -- but a little DnT and that can be taken up


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

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Posts: 40234 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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I designed and made a 2 stage trigger that used the original military set up , but I made a set trigger to reduce the pull down to about 1 lb if you wanted this type of pull on a hunting rifle. During the Xmas break at TSJC in 1961 I had no money to spend on a good trigger, so I baby set and made my trigger. I have pictures of this contraption , but can't locate them on the PC. I will take some more pictures to show the parts today if anyone wants to see them.
 
Posts: 965 | Location: Texas | Registered: 19 May 2004Reply With Quote
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No idea what a dog's breakfast is; never owned a dog. Don't want one.
Anyway, some of the "set screw" ideas were installed to convert the two stage, to a One stage; a very bad and un safe idea. The Mauser triggers are a direct pull off design, and reducing the sear engagement below a certain point (depends on tolerances in the entire system), will make it fire when dropped. Be careful with that type of setup. I still see them, made by some guy in 1962; they immediately go in the trash.
You cannot compare them to any double lever type of commercial trigger; different animal. Not a bad one though. Just different.
I know Les did not do that.
As for service rifle shooting; think the AR/M16 platform; single stage; our current Service rifle, for quite a few decades now.
 
Posts: 17443 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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dpcd I can't see any possibility of an issue that is unsafe with the conversion as long as the safety retracts the sear. Am I missing something? Please advise.


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Posts: 5310 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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Worst trigger mistake I ever made Was to “work on” and thus ruin my Syrian Mauser two stage which I used very well. I have bought several surplus ones try to replace it but alas, it seems not to be. It sadly wears a Timney now.
I would put a great two stage in all my hunting rifles if I could.


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Posts: 2135 | Location: Where God breathes life into the Amber Waves of Grain and owns the cattle on a thousand hills. | Registered: 20 August 2002Reply With Quote
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CB: yes, it is a real thing; if you deactivate the first stage, and make the second one too shallow, you run the risk of allowing the cocking piece to jump over the sear and fall. It is all dependent on the tolerances of the bolt to receiver, cocking piece to the sear fit, cocking piece to bolt shroud fit, cocking piece to firing pin fit, and the sloppiness (a word?) of the trigger/sear pins. I test them by smacking the bridge with a plastic hammer; if the sear falls, it ain't good. And I see them that were modified, that will.
Trying to get a light, crisp, one stage pull from a direct pull trigger is an exercise fraught with potential "issues". like the rifle firing if dropped, etc. But give Bubba a bench grinder, he will do it.
There are two stages for a reason; not just to annoy American shooters.
(The safety retracting the sear, and allowing full trigger reset, is another issue and is important, but irrelevant to actual sear engagement.)
 
Posts: 17443 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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My Chilean 95 has a old stock trigger. Just so smooth and slick. Never saw a reason to change it.

And, it has "auto fire"! When the cross hairs came across the bucks chest, the gun just went off, didn't even have to pull the trigger. Wink


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Posts: 406 | Registered: 15 March 2004Reply With Quote
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I have a husqvarna 9.3 and I love the two stage trigger on it. The "take up" is a safety to my thinking. I know when its "loaded" just a bit more pressure then BANG!

I have other types on other rifles and I've never had an issue with either.
 
Posts: 581 | Location: Cheney, KS or Africa Somewhere | Registered: 07 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Oh, I'm sure you seen lots of Bubba jobs over the years. No doubt. Yeah sloppy anything is not good no matter which trigger and safety is used. Tight fitting parts are a given. Comments below.

quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
CB: yes, it is a real thing; if you deactivate the first stage, and make the second one too shallow, you run the risk of allowing the cocking piece to jump over the sear and fall.

*** I respectfully submit ........... Just 0 slop adjustment by a responsible gunsmith is fine because of retraction by the safety. I know minimum retraction for a Timney is 6/000's if I recall. So, sorry. But, since I never checked any 98 safeties for retraction, I must ask more directly to be certain, does the 98 safety retract the cocking piece allowing the trigger to swing freely or not? I don't think reducing the slop to zero will cause any danger IF the safety retracts.

It is all dependent on the tolerances of the bolt to receiver, cocking piece to the sear fit, cocking piece to bolt shroud fit, cocking piece to firing pin fit, and the sloppiness (a word?) of the trigger/sear pins. I test them by smacking the bridge with a plastic hammer; if the sear falls, it ain't good. And I see them that were modified, that will.

*** Tolerances (wear) certainly affect alignment as I mentioned in other posts. But, isn't that a separate issue?

Trying to get a light, crisp, one stage pull from a direct pull trigger is an exercise fraught with potential "issues". like the rifle firing if dropped, etc. But give Bubba a bench grinder, he will do it.
There are two stages for a reason; not just to annoy American shooters.
(The safety retracting the sear, and allowing full trigger reset, is another issue and is important, but irrelevant to actual sear engagement.)

*** Well my friend... I still think that if and that is a big if the under travel reduced/modified M98 trigger swings freely with the safety engaged then it should pass both the bump test and also the safety ON, depress the trigger then turn the safety off test IF parts are snug with little to no play. When in doubt, ship it out.


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Posts: 5310 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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May be what Paul Mauser was thinking too.
quote:
Originally posted by Aaron Rust:
I have a husqvarna 9.3 and I love the two stage trigger on it. The "take up" is a safety to my thinking. I know when its "loaded" just a bit more pressure then BANG!

I have other types on other rifles and I've never had an issue with either.


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Posts: 5310 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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I finally found the pictures of my trigger mention up in the thread. Now if I could find the contraption in my motorhome I will try to explain how it worked. I used it on a Mauser 243 for awhile and then traded to rifle for something else to work on. It worked ok for me, but the bottom section with the trigger was fitted into the trigger guard with a spacer to make sure that all part would line up with the same space if the action was taken apart.

I wouldn't recommend anyone try this without understanding how much space is needed to be safe engagement with the sear and cocking sear.

 
Posts: 965 | Location: Texas | Registered: 19 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Custom; no, the safety retraction has zero to do with the amount of sear to cocking piece engagement.
Zero. There is some amount of play in all mauser bolts; has to be; you can't possibly make all the related parts with zero clearance; and there is also a level of sear engagement that will allow a cocking piece to fall; What is that? It is different for each setup; no matter how tight each of the tolerances is. I can easily make any Mauser unsafe. (So can Bubba, trying to get a light, crisp trigger pull from a military trigger)
That is why there are two stages.
This is the key: If you deactivate the first stage, and make the second one too shallow, you run the risk of allowing the cocking piece to jump over the sear and fall. Has nothing to do with the safety/cocking piece withdrawal, or lack thereof. That is another issue completely.
Les; wow.
Now, by now the OP is completely disinterested in all this. He will not be happy with a military trigger.
 
Posts: 17443 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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What I have done on several when we had a lot to play within the 80s, was to file down the hump at the top of the trigger, then mill out a recess at the base that would accept a 1/4" ball bearing. Then mill/file out the corresponding recess in the trigger housing. The ball bearing is now the contact surface + it is slick as glass + the only cost is the S/S ball bearing + a bit of labor.


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Posts: 17357 | Location: Austin, Texas | Registered: 11 March 2013Reply With Quote
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Two Stage Triggers are actually the choice of High Power, Service Rifle, and 3 and 4 Position Disciplines as well as International Air Rifle (which is shot all Offhand).

The Ar-15 Service rifle aftermarket two stage are 4-1/2 pound, but when people try one they say what is that a pound and a half or less. I show them that it will pick up a dead weight of 4-1/2 pounds and not go off until you give it a jerk. I and many others have said a light trigger doesn't mean a good trigger! Most of these are not actually adjustable except by either installing different trigger springs or by bending the legs of the trigger spring.

The 2 stages in the position guns are either 4-1/2 pound in the lower classes and unlimited in the lightness in International Air Rifle and Position shooting with most liking them adjusted up to around 6 ounces.

I have a Rock Island M1903 with a beautiful two stage trigger - totally un-modified.

A nice smooth two stage military trigger with a crisp let off without creep and grit is an excellent hunting rifle trigger. Many of the old German customs had either two stage triggers or set triggers in them; you hardly saw a single stage.


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Posts: 1632 | Location: Potter County, Pennsylvania | Registered: 22 June 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by NormanConquest:
What I have done on several when we had a lot to play within the 80s, was to file down the hump at the top of the trigger, then mill out a recess at the base that would accept a 1/4" ball bearing. Then mill/file out the corresponding recess in the trigger housing. The ball bearing is now the contact surface + it is slick as glass + the only cost is the S/S ball bearing + a bit of labor.


I had a Mauser at one time with this modification, it was pretty nice.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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I saw some Mauser rifles from H&H and one from Rigby which had nicely tuned 2 stage triggers. To me, a serious, working rifle should have nothing else. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3857 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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To each his own. For me, holding the trigger in on a two-stage prior to firing takes a little more effort. Mine are all true single stage Timney, Recknagle or M12 Mauser or Merkel. All my rifles have no trigger creep and are set at 1 7/8 to 2 pounds pull either by me or by the factory. I don't have to think about the trigger much as I shoot every other month to stay tuned in and they all break about the same.


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Posts: 5310 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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Some of us grew up in the Mauser days when you could buy one for nada out of the magazines and gunlist or the NRA etc. We learned to shoot the two stage military trigger as issued, and once you got used to it, it was pretty darn good..We, who tinkered, also learned to take the first stage out by soldering a piece of steel where custom stock used a screw. the rest was accomplished with a hone, they worked great to horrible according to the tinkerer. Roll Eyes

As for a hunting rifle, I see nothing wrong at all with a Timney these days, its inexpensive and they work fine IMO..Back in the day, I was a fan of the set trigger Canjar and as I recall it was the only option that this ranch kid knew off anyway..


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
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Posts: 42320 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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