the photo is actually two different sights, but the mechanics are the same.

It takes a special made spanner wrench and you can see.Vangunsmith

if I tried different sized drill rod to fit the holes (they're tiny), and molded them into a fixture of sorts using acraglas, so the wrench would fit exactly on the "domed" part with the holes in it, do you think the drill rod pins would take the stress put on them?

quote:

Originally posted by tin can:
if I tried different sized drill rod to fit the holes (they're tiny), and molded them into a fixture of sorts using acraglas, so the wrench would fit exactly on the "domed" part with the holes in it, do you think the drill rod pins would take the stress put on them?

I think it would. I'd consider taking the following precautions in making the tool, though:

1. Keep the length of the protruding pins absolutely no longer than the depth of the holes in the sight into which they are to fit (less flex that way)

2. Fit the pins into the tool body/handle by drilling holes in the tool for them and driving them in, THEN put a dab of epoxy between the pins and actually put the whole shebang in place on the sight with a makeshift "jig", for the epoxy to cure. (Cover the sight with silicon spray first, as release agent.) I don't believe using only epoxy without a strong steel or brass base to the tool will likely be sufficient for long term support of the pins...maybe not even short-term use, depending on how tightly the sight is fixed together and what kind of crud has gotten in between the nut and the threads.

thanks canuck-

I was thinking maybe a steel disc as a base to take the pins, with a allen head off a screw mounted concentrically to take an allen wrench- so pins down/allen head up (on top).

braze/siver solder the pins to the disc, us a "steel" type 'glas for the rest.

- as I write this, it occurs to me the above are details to what you have suggested- thanks again.

quote:

I have rebuilt several of these type Lyman sights, but it has been a few years. Seems like I reground and filed a screwdriver for the pins?!?! As I rermember, you don't tighten the domed end, but hold it in place and tighten the nut on the other side.
Do be careful to note the locations of the pin holes, nut, locking lever and locking tab, it will need to be reassembled in precisly the same position. The inside doen't look anything like what you would imagine from looking at the outside, if that makes any sense?

I'd rather hear this from you rather than learning the hard way, thanks.