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bluing remover
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Picture of Mark
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Hi all,

I have a knife that I am going to rust blue, it has an old blued finish right now but is in bad shape. I don't want to polish it for a few reasons but I'd like to remove the existing bluing before I refinish it. I don't have any dedicated bluing remover and was wondering what I have on hand that I can use. I have some Naval Jelly, muriatic acid (HCL) and sulfuric acid in addition to white vinegar. I also have some paint stripper somewhere. Will any of those remove the bluing satisfactorily? Anything else that someone can suggest? I need to start this tomorrow so don't really have time to order something, but can pick stuff up at the hardware store if need be.

TNX

Mark


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7763 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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Go to your local Sears store and get a bottle of Rust Free. It will remove bluing, rust, and get your steel all ready to be de-greased and rust blued. Great stuff.

http://www.boeshield.com/
 
Posts: 466 | Location: South West USA | Registered: 11 December 2006Reply With Quote
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I've used muriatic acid mixed 1 to 3 w/ water to remove rust bluing before. Works good, but you'll need to give it a good bath of water and baking soda after your finished to make sure you've neutralized the removing solution.

Terry


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Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks Terry!

fyj, I appreciate the suggestion but I live in the boonies and the nearest craftsman store is about 50 miles away.


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Posts: 7763 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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Use the Naval Jelly then and buff it a bit with a scotch brite pad as you rinse it off.
 
Posts: 466 | Location: South West USA | Registered: 11 December 2006Reply With Quote
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CLR works very well, white vinegar will take it off, but sometimes slow.

with all acids, it will etch the finish, to a greater or lesser degree, and may need polishing before starting
jeffe


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Posts: 38602 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Well I'm not sure if it would work well for you but I've had waterfowl blood remove bluing from shotgun barrels Mad lol


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Posts: 626 | Location: The soggy side of Washington State | Registered: 13 July 2003Reply With Quote
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Mark,
I use Naval jelly + water, 50/50 mixture. 2 go-rounds with 50/50 solution etches less than 1 shot at full strength. 20 years ago I could've explained the chemistry but now I'm reduced to "acids are funny that way".
 
Posts: 238 | Location: NY | Registered: 10 February 2006Reply With Quote
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Oven cleaner
 
Posts: 1605 | Location: Wa. State | Registered: 19 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Wish I knew what someone used to inadvertently remove the rust blueing from the Persian Mauser I bought from Samco a while back. Left the exposed metal in the white, shiny and polished, and turned the stock shellac/lacquer to a sticky gum that I had to remove and replace. The metal under the wood still has the rich blue on it. I figured someone misguidedly used a strong caustic cleaner to remove Cosmoline from one of their "unissued" models.


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Posts: 1325 | Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA | Registered: 24 December 2003Reply With Quote
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Ricochet,
that makes me think a second... bluing is caustic, but a strong cleaner could probably damage it.. but an acid will take it right off...

i heard using toilet cleaner, here on AR.. and that works, too! but anything that cleans water/lime stains will have a low-ish PH

jeffe


#dumptrump

opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 38602 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Common ordninary "Naval Jelly" will remove Bluning and rust.

Available at most big box stores, as well as, Mom and Pop hardwares



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Posts: 4239 | Location: TN USA | Registered: 17 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Mark, the muriatic acid will work just fine. Wash it in water and use some emery cloth to clean the blade after.


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Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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I agree on the muriatic acid mixed with water in fact 1/10 will work. You don't need it too hot and any etching will be at a minimum. Rinse it good and you should be fine. As with anything like that don't breath it. Use a resperator if you can outside.
 
Posts: 128 | Location: Oregon,USA | Registered: 02 May 2005Reply With Quote
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