While the 98 bottom metal is very close, I think the tang would have to be bent to prevent the stock from being too thin in the wrist. I guess the only option is cutting up an 03 trigger guard.
What about the bend on the rear tang? A torch and vise??
I'm sure Duane will have an answer for you.
But, according to Dunlap, "It is not absolutely necessary to bend down the receiver tang to provide the angled screw position of the Springfield. For an easier stocking job, the rear tang of the Springfield guard can be cut shorter, rounded off just behind the rear guard screw. This permits more leeway in shaping the pistol grip inner curve."
I'm getting ready to do another Mauser, and have been seriously thinking about using a Springfield guard myself. Any advise/tips will be greatly appreciated.
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002
beautiful stuff can be done with the original metal.
the trigger bow has been reshaped, and a custom button made for the floorplate release. This was done to my stepfather's desires, and since he's always hunted with converted military rifles has never dropped floorplate to dump cartridges, so didn't want hinged. this button actually works really slick, the slot in it was done so you could use the rim of a case on it, but it works great with your finger too.
Posts: 4742 | Location: Fresno, CA | Registered: 21 March 2003
Here are 2 examples of different treatments, both are under construction, merely rough-fit, and eventually will be changed slightly.
The straddle floorplate was originally made for a Win M70 and will have a new larger release lever fabbed & fit, shaped more like that of a Mauser. IMO this first one is entirely too small and wrongly placed.
The other's button release is made with a sharply-defined retaining detent that requires a considerable 'snap' to disengage, making it much less likely to be accidentally tripped. The floorplate of this one is also fitted with a slotted hole in the hinge tongue, allowing enough rearward movement for the disengagement of the latch but also 'capturing' the floorplate to prevent loss. Regards, Joe
__________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008
I have fit one of Duane’s Mauser bottom metals to a Springfield. All it took was about .090” off the front pillar and a little facing cut and clover to seat the rear screw. The original don’t look to bad either, especially with the way DagoRed and Joe have done.
Here is the Sunny Hill 03 bottom metal, it is made straight. I thought this would make the wrist too thin, but the tang to the rear of the guard measures out very close to a model 70. It will not fit 03 inletting, but will make a very trim, brit style stalking rifle.
You guys were right! Thanks to Dall 85, who sent me a Springfield...I experimented. Bending the rear tang on a 98 is adviseable....then to really makes things spiffy, bending the rearmost (guard screw) area down a little more will make all things right.
When we run another 1M (98 replacement) I'll make the rear guard screw area thicker...then making the bend will be all that's needed.
By the way, the bend is easily done cold.
Why not "just" make a Springfield? I don't see the big numbers market...
From my dim memory, I recall tha I used to bend the Springfield tang UP to use a 98 guard
Posts: 2221 | Location: Tacoma, WA | Registered: 31 October 2003
Over the years there have been a number of lightweight hinged guard assemblies for the 1903, a particularly nasty one was made by or for Michaels, with a stamped out deer "engraved" in relief. Sometimes "gold" platedl. This could probably be filed and polished off and the parts reblacked. There was one decent rig that I always thought was made by Sako, it is stamped "Finland". I have one of these on a rifle, it is quite trim. Unfortunately I don't know how to photo it.
I have just finished Remington and Winchester bottom metal in steel and aluminum with two types of latchs. The folks that have them say they fit perfect. Now I would like to machine mauser bottom metal and Howa in steel, aluminum and stainless. Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction. What type would be the correct one to start with? Thanks Dave Kiff
Posts: 26 | Location: eagle point | Registered: 17 May 2010