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one of us |
Do have to take out the ejector to remove the #1 barrel. Fred M. zermel@shaw.ca | ||
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One of Us |
I remove everything... and, I always tape the barrel off so that there is no chance the forearm hanger will damage the finish if by some chance there is contact during the R&R. | |||
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Moderator |
and the quarter rib, as it's just screws holding it on opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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One of Us |
And don't forget the little dowel pins that are a real bastard to get out, although I do have a system. Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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one of us |
Thanks for the replies. I had thought the barrel could be takne off with out taking every thing appart. If the leaver is dropped and the ejector is clear out of the barrel notch. The barrel should come off with no trouble. But I will take the ejector out just to make sure nothing hangs up. I am taking off a 243 barrel and replacing it with a factory 7x57. Hope there is not too much fitting. Because I dont have a 7x57 reamer. Mr Kobe What is the system to take out the rib studs? Fred M. zermel@shaw.ca | |||
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One of Us |
They are damn near impossible to remove. I set the barreled action up in the mill and indicate in the pins, drill and tap them to 6-48. I have made a small hammer puller and insert the 6-48 screw into the pin and pull it out with the hammer. When you go to put the pins back, just reverse them, they are blued on both ends. Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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one of us |
Jim, thanks for sharing your method of pulling the rib studs. That's one of those damn good ideas that leaves a hand print on my forehead. I slap myself saying, "why didn't I think of that?". Mark Pursell | |||
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