I've got a nice walnut stock on my CZ rifle. the stock is new and the factory coat is new. Don't yell at me for this , but I applied Tru Oil to it without sanding off the original coat (wish I didn't). I was trying to give it a better layer of protection cause I love the stock so much.
now it's glossy, but kind of a rough glossy. What would you recommend to get this gloss smoothed out and brought back down to a nice semo-gloss matte finish?
I was thinking rottenstone, but do I need to sand it with something more coarse to get inperfections in the gloss coat out (such as finger marks or dust particle bumps)?

Also, you know how some wood has that look like a tiger eye stone, where it looks like it has different planes of shimmery grain like velvet or silk. my butt stock has that, but the forarm is more plain looking. Is there a way to get the more plain looking wood to get that effect or is that all up to the wood grain it's self?

Go to the hardware store and buy a sheet of 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Stop somewhere else and buy a rubber eraser. You know, the rectangular variety that's about 1.5" long. Cut a small strip of sandpaper to wrap around the eraser. Dip in in a 50/50 mixture of Tru Oil and mineral spirits. Water will work in a pinch but the stock oil mixture is better. Sand small areas with light pressure. It's messy, wipe the slop off with a paper towel. This should remove the imperfections and live you with a dull oil finish. If you sand through the oil finish in places, put on another coat and repeat the process.

If you want it with a little more shine, rub on a very light coat of Tru Oil (with out the finger prints or dirt specks) and repeat the wet sanding with 1000 grit. If you want it shinier still, put on another coat and polish it with Meguires #7 glazing compound, available at the auto parts store. Neither one of those coats can have runs, sags, dirt or fingerprints. 1000 grit or Meguires #7 won't remove them. Every coat needs to be dry before wet sanding or polishing. I usually leave them for 24 hours just to be sure and my climate here is about as humid as yours. If in doubt, leave it another day. It can't be too dry.

PS Next time you want to protect a stock with existing finish, use paste wax. My favorite is Johnson's in the big yellow can. It's easy and you can use it on the metal too.

Go to where you bought the Tru-Oil and buy a bottle of "Stock Sheen & Conditioner." It will be in the same brown bottle like the Tru-Oil. Follow the directions and the gloss will be nicely removed. It is designed to take the shine off of Tru-Oil.

RH

quote:

Originally posted by himmelrr:
Go to where you bought the Tru-Oil and buy a bottle of "Stock Sheen & Conditioner." It will be in the same brown bottle like the Tru-Oil. Follow the directions and the gloss will be nicely removed. It is designed to take the shine off of Tru-Oil.

RH

It works very good on Tru-Oil! Just make sure you let the oil cure between coats! Thin is better!

The way I finish almost all stock finishes is by hand-rubbing the stock with paraffin oil and rotten stone. If you want a more satin finish use 4F pumice instead of the rotten stone. This takes off excess sheen and smooths imperfections like dust from the surface. Real easy to do.