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Walnut Blank Thickness
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How thick does a blank need to be to be utilized for a classic English style stock on a M/70 action with a pancake cheekpiece?

2", 2 1/8", 2 1/4", 2 3/8", 2 1/2" Can you all help me out here? I have a blank I am interested in that is 2 1/6" and another that is 2 1/4"
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Both of the blanks your looking at are on the tight side in my opinion. But it could be done depending on the height of the cheekpiece (off of the butt) and other dimensions such as cast off. I like a blank to be a minimum of 2 3/8" thick. 2 1/2" to 2 5/8" is better. Of the stocks I've done the butt thickness including the cheekpiece is about 2.2". But for my self I need a thicker blank to accomodate quite a bit of cast off. Off course if you are not considering adding any cast this doesn't matter as much.
 
Posts: 1240 | Location: Golden, CO | Registered: 05 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I have not considered cast off. I want this stock trim like my Mannlicher Schoenauer stocks. Nice thin oval grip and forearm. Small Continental [pancake] cheek piece just like the Mannlichers too.
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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dressels will tell you 2" is standard... and depart from the rest of reality at that point.

2.25 is the MINIMUM for a cheekpiece, and it better be skinny....

I like 2.365 or 2.5 to fit...

and while .125 is just a RHC in some places, it's huge in stocks

jeffe


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Posts: 38612 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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dressels will tell you 2" is standard... and depart from the rest of reality at that point.


I know I've always found shopping their site frustrating for those reasons. Does a mill really gain that much by cutting to such minimums, I can't imagine they do.


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Posts: 6205 | Location: Cascade, MT | Registered: 12 February 2002Reply With Quote
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2 1/4" is dead minimum with no wiggle room. Turkish blanks usually come at 2" which makes them on the rediculous side.
 
Posts: 1451 | Registered: 02 April 2005Reply With Quote
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My thinnest stocks with cheekpieces measure at 2" and I prefer them to thicker ones. My larger finished ones are around 2.1". You don't need a cheekpiece big enough to hide under it from the rain. If you are building a heavy kicker, the stock of course will be thicker in the but and consequently the cheekpiece.

I have 5 Dressel blanks hanging in my shop and they measure from 2.3 to 2.5" wide. I suspect they are covering their ass with the 2" statement.


Chic Worthing
"Life is Too Short To Hunt With An Ugly Gun"
http://webpages.charter.net/cworthing/
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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I have 6 blanks from Dressels. All about 2.3-2.5 inches thick. My cheekpieces are also very trim. They are nothing more than decoration anyway.

Personally I dont think anyone would get into the situation GSP7 mentioned. Even IF you bought a blank and it turned out to be 2" thick, I know for a fact you could easily return it for an exchange or refund. I have never had a single problem returning a blank. Typically if the blank is on the skinny side they will tell you before you buy it. That has been my experience anyway.
 
Posts: 1268 | Location: Newell, SD, USA | Registered: 07 December 2001Reply With Quote
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RCH Jeffe, not RHC.

lol


Frank



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Posts: 12600 | Location: Kentucky, USA | Registered: 30 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Bill Im still learnin'. I deleted that one, late night post Big Grin

I agree though , My one stock with the 2.2 width at the check would work good to hide under during a rain storm.

This pattern stock Ive been making , I was debating if id even put a cheek piece on it. Think I will, but just for detail and looks . A small pancake.
 
Posts: 4821 | Location: Idaho/North Mex. | Registered: 12 June 2002Reply With Quote
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You can get a small cheek piece if you will look at the rear of the 2" blank and layout a template showing the necessary cross section of the stock with the cheek piece that you wish to copy or make. The top of the blank will need to be adjusted or tilted to the right for a right hand stock. You can not use the blank from it's own square surface on top side. My little JUNK stock duplicator machine of which several have gotten my CD to build will allow for the off set in the head stock spindle. Most duplicators are not made for this adjustment, but must be shifted by resetting the location of the driving spindle end. I have done these small cheeck pieces and when I made my machine years ago this was one of the considerations for the design. It is much harder to make these stocks if you cut these from a blank with hand tools. Hope this helps Les
 
Posts: 965 | Location: Texas | Registered: 19 May 2004Reply With Quote
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SDH
You are correct with the shotguns and some single shots as most are too wide at the receiver to shift in a machine from a 2" blank. The answer was for the Mod.70 pancake style with cheek piece, feather weight stock without cast off.

I will send a PM on your books.
 
Posts: 965 | Location: Texas | Registered: 19 May 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
I have 5 Dressel blanks hanging in my shop and they measure from 2.3 to 2.5" wide. I suspect they are covering their ass with the 2" statement.



Well Great!!!

I finally found a piece of wood I love, but it is only 2 1/5 inch thick! Yes, it is regia, not a piece of black or claro........What to do?????
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Customstox:

I have 5 Dressel blanks hanging in my shop and they measure from 2.3 to 2.5" wide. I suspect they are covering their ass with the 2" statement.


When I talked to Dressels she told me that 2 1/4" was the "Industry standard" and managed to repeat the 2 1/4" "Industry standard" several times. Of course 2 1/4" happened to be the thickness of the blank I was interested in......

At least she was honest enough to tell me that another stockmaker had sent it back because it was warped.

If I buy a blank from the Dressels I might have to pay CustomStox to pick it out....................DJ


....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!..................
 
Posts: 3976 | Location: Oklahoma,USA | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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dj,
Chic would be your best guess for a personally picked blank from that source. Except for the through-bolt thing, we basically agree on what GOOD wood is, he knows. In my opinion, the best California wood, and the most fair and honest guy in the business is Steve Heilmann.
woodandmetal.com
No individual blanks show on the site, but he's one of our best stockmaker/ metalsmiths and would take it personally if you weren't happy. I bought 15 "green" two piece sets from him 6 years ago and there isn't a bad stick in the bunch.
Also no web site but great gunmaker, honest guy with good Turkish is Gene Simillion 907-641-1126. I'd buy from either with absolutely no qualms, sight unseen! I simply don't make poor referrals. Take this as in insider trading tip, there's lots of XXX-ultra-extra-super-fancy wood on the web, these guys KNOW wood because they use it.
(333 please don't wear these folks out with endless questions, they are knowledgable and trustworthy; read some books, do your research, ask a few good questions.)
SDH


ACGG Life Member, since 1985
 
Posts: 1796 | Registered: 07 February 2005Reply With Quote
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Steve, after some thought on the through bolt thing, I have decided I was all wet. Have since dried off.


Chic Worthing
"Life is Too Short To Hunt With An Ugly Gun"
http://webpages.charter.net/cworthing/
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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(333 please don't wear these folks out with endless questions, they are knowledgable and trustworthy; read some books, do your research, ask a few good questions.)



Again, I thought it best to ask a few opinions rather than reading a book with just one. Also, I was hoping that by learning a leason here that I could save others the same problems that I might be avoiding. If that is a problem then I am sorry. I have asked a lot of questions of the professional 'Smiths here and I appreciate all of the answers. I especially appreciate the questions and answers I have gotten from Chic Worthing and Mark Stratton. Additionally, some of the guys here have agreed to do work for me on the rifle I am having built. It should not be long until the barrel and action arrive.
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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