Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
new member |
I am trying to drill and tap a Mouser receiver for scope mounts to no avail. I have drilled and taped the back of the receiver however I am having trouble drilling the front of the receiver. I haven't even been able to start the hole in the front of the receiver. Dose any one have any ideas on drilling the harden steel? Thank you for your help. | ||
|
One of Us |
Has this action been sent to a heat treater to be hardened? Describe the ring hardness.....can you file it with a mill file? It's very unusual to have a M-98 mauser that can't be drilled.....eddystones...maybe...but not Mausers /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill | |||
|
Moderator |
use a 3mm endmill, turn it slow, and use wd40 ... and center punch the first hole.. then drag a file over it. shouldn't be more than 31c, which cuts pretty easy,,, you aren't turning over 800rpm, are you? j opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
|
One of Us |
A solid carbide spotting drill will cut through the outer layer of just about any Case Hardened receiver. Once you get through the outer layer a regular drill bit will work just fine. Another handy-dandy little trick (if you have one) is to use an electro-etch chemical/electrical engraving tool. You just make a small dot on the template paper and etch as you normally would. It will cut right through the case hardening and also leave you with a perfect starting hole for your drill bit. | |||
|
one of us |
Another way to get it started is to use a high-speed grinder (like Dremel or Foredom) with a very small stone and carefully grind a very small spot to get you through the case hardening. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
|
One of Us |
Last time I drilled a mouser it wasn't livley enough to bother screwing the antlers in. Oh! you ment a Mauser. Diamond coated burs in a dremel are just the ticket for cutting through the case hardened skin. The carbide c'drill works very well but if you have a less than ridgid set up they are fairly fragile. Rusty's Action Works Montross VA. Action work for Cowboy Shooters & Manufacturer of Stylized Rigby rifle sights. http://i61.photobucket.com/alb.../th_isofrontleft.jpg | |||
|
One of Us |
Rusty, I don’t know about you, but I would never attempt to drill into a rifle receiver (using anything) if my set up was not ridgid. | |||
|
One of Us |
Well if a guy has to ask "how", you can't asume he has a mill or a high end drill press. Carbide drills do not like being run on home-shop grade drill presses unless there are extra steps taken to ensure setup rigidity. Home grade drill presses are plenty ridgid enough for drilling and tapping a reciever, just not with carbide tools. That's all I was trying to say. Rusty's Action Works Montross VA. Action work for Cowboy Shooters & Manufacturer of Stylized Rigby rifle sights. http://i61.photobucket.com/alb.../th_isofrontleft.jpg | |||
|
one of us |
Rick, you are talking about rifles now aren't you? John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
|
One of Us |
God, I hope so! | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia