In the last week, I have steel bedded my first 7 stocks. BIG difference from my first to this last one. Thanks to all of the guys on here that gave me pointers on how this is CORRECTLY done.
Lessons Learned:
1. Make sure to test fit the stock to action fitting after routering and before bedding.
2. Go over the action twice with release to make sure you don't miss anything.
3. Mix bedding for ALL 4 minutes!
4. Keep numerous rags with isopropyl alcohol on hand.
5. Have an experience guy on speed dial. The stuff dries quick when you are inexperienced like I am
6. Don't use clamps! Use electrical tape to hold the action and stock together (debatable, but made sense to me).
Thanks again for the advice guys. This has made the process for my next steel bedding much easier.

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Use electrical tape to hold the action and stock together (debatable, but made sense to me).
Thanks again for the advice guys

I use a piece of surgical tubing.

I am hardly a bedding wizard, but why would you use tape or tubing to secure the action to the stock when the bedding compound is setting up? Why wouldn't you just put release agent on the action screws, etc. and tighten them down? That is how I have done the four or five that I have bedded and it worked fine. I will be the first to admit though that I am something even lower than a novice when it comes to this sort of thing.

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I use a piece of surgical tubing.

Yes. Leaves nothing sticky behind at all. A man who does powder-coating told me that masking tape begins to "season" onto the parts, et cetera, in about 24 hours. That's that sticky crap from duct tape (especially duct tape) you can't get off no matter what you do short of air-chiseling or sand-blasting the stuff. I see people use duct tape on the paint of their cars for various purposes. I just think "You ain't gonna like what's left when you try to pull it off."

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That is how I have done the four or five that I have bedded and it worked fine.

WEll aftering glueing someone else rifle together I switched to the tubing. If you use screws just make sure you are snug not TIGHT so you don't twist anythng. I've jsut found tubing a LOT easier to mess with.

The tubing makes a lot of sense to me. Can you get it tight enough for a snug fit? I am all for not having to deal with the action screws and the fear of something going wrong. Do you put the tubing at several different points on the action?

You won't have any problems using screws if (A) you apply a good coat of release agent to the entire screw and the threaded hole, and (B) you loosen and then re-tighten the screw to break any possible bond within a couple of hours of putting it to bed.

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you loosen and then re-tighten the screw to break any possible bond within a couple of hours of putting it to bed.

Learned that the hard way as well. Makes you not forget it

Mike what I have is a piece about 3' long. I quickly tie one end and stretch and wrap along the action. Probably 5 or 6 wraps (just guessing never counted).

+1 for Westpac! God Bless, Louis

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Originally posted by MJines:
I am hardly a bedding wizard, but why would you use tape or tubing to secure the action to the stock when the bedding compound is setting up? Why wouldn't you just put release agent on the action screws, etc. and tighten them down? That is how I have done the four or five that I have bedded and it worked fine. I will be the first to admit though that I am something even lower than a novice when it comes to this sort of thing.

In short this will introduce stress. I learned from Speedy Gonzalez and when I have time will post.

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Originally posted by Westpac:
You won't have any problems using screws if (A) you apply a good coat of release agent to the entire screw and the threaded hole, and (B) you loosen and then re-tighten the screw to break any possible bond within a couple of hours of putting it to bed.

amen

use latex rubber tubing, its easy and fast ..
why? if you are full length bedding, the barrel WILL be north of where it was, with the bedding inplace, and the tubing forces out the extra. Its NOT about inducing stress, its about REMOVING it

use blue painters tape, it aint sticky ...

NEVER use vineager near a blued gun .. it will take the blue off like you WISH painter mover worked

WD40 on a rag will take the sticky off the stock/barrel from most tapes, including aged duct tape

i sprongly prefer marinetex grey

floor wax paste works well, get it all over... do this 3 times... mould release works very well

i turn the screws in to slightly snug .. clean up... turn in a bit more, clean up, THEN wrap with tubing, and yeah, clean up ..

USE PLASTIC TOOLS for scraping, if you need them .. software plastic has less chance of marring wood

oh, yeah, did i mention bluepainters tape? COVER THE CHECKERING

finally .. be certain to coat the entire action and bottom metal with release agent, and do NOT install the spring and follower .. for example, on a mauser rifle, you will probably get a "pinch" or squirt line between action and mag.

RELIEVE THE TANG .. that is, the wood around the radius on the veritical surface, after you are finished .. when the gun is screwed in, there SHOULD be a slight gap at the very rear .. just a hair... it should NOT be a tight metal+wood+bedding .. IMNSHO

lastly .. while you can include a wrist pin in a standard bedding, don't try to xbolt AND bed, if you are bedding the xbolts, at the same time .. it works, but its not a time saver for ME

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I use a piece of surgical tubing.

Nothing wrong with that, but why not use something free. Run down to your local tire supply store and ask for an old innertube and cut it up in lengths and widths that you can use. This material will strech a mile before it'll tear an inch (where have I heard this before ). I got one from an 18 wheeler an that was along time ago and still have a lot left. I've never had any problems with the glass sticking to it either.

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I use a piece of surgical tubing.


Nothing wrong with that, but why not use something free

My wife works at a surgery center so it was free. You can get pretty much the same thing for a couple $$ at Lowes. Like you say and old inner tube would work just as well.