Fella's, well it's very hot here and I'm not outside as much as I'd like so the brain got to thinking that I should glass bed my CZ527 so I started taking it apart until I got to the trigger and while Remingtons and Mausers I don't have a problem with this little CZ trigger looked a bit more complex! question is will it stay together when I remove the retaining screws or will it explode into a 1 week hunt for springs in the carpet and reasembly project? reason I ask is that when I bed actions I bed the whole action and while I have tinkered and built a couple Mausers this little sucker looks like it may casue foul words to come from my mouth. Thanks for any help you can offer! Later,

Kirk

I have built several CZ rifles and it required a lot of profanity each time I went to put the trigger back together. I absolutely hate thos triggers and have no idea why CZ uses them. Surely they can use a more "standard" trigger and save money and save us a lot of head ache.

I normally get loads of help here, is everybody out doing yard work? I still have not got into that trigger removal. I'd appreciate the help of the guru's here on the board. Thanks!

Kirk

Buy a single stage trigger from AHR, and pitch the issue trigger. That is what I did.

LD

Kirk,
that trigger would give rube goldburg nightmares, and no one wants to deal with them. In fact, that is my single big complaint on the CZs.. the OVERLY complicated trigger.

LD's advice is sound

jeffe

Glad i stumbled onto this thread.

I am contemplating a 6.5 x 55 swede and CZ is one of the few current manufacturers who make one. I was curious on their trigger.

Anyone have any other suggestions on a 6.5 swede (not custom, cant afford that

Using the AHR trigger only elimnates a handful of parts in a trigger that has about 10 hand fulls of parts. DOn't get me wrong-I think you should use the AHR trigger on most CZ's, but it hardly turns the trigger into something that is reasonable, and will do almost nothing to help the original poster get his back together.

Wow, I don't follow. I've taken the stock off of a CZ and everything stays together. I must be missing something here; why would you disassemble the trigger mechanism?

Also, I love that trigger. Push it forward for target practice and you've got a hair-trigger set at a few ounces, though if it's too light for your tastes just adjust it with a screwdriver without removinging the stock or anything. The rest of the time it's a safer hunting trigger with a heavier pull. I love it.

rebarrel, rust blue, add a muzzle break, cut and crown a barrel are just a few reasons why you would have the trigger in its "THFASO" condition (that is " Ten Handfuls, All Spread Out").

Most of the CZ's that get talked about here are dangerous game rifles. I feel strongly that the set trigger with lots of moving parts and little pieces has no place on a DG rifle that will actually get used in the field.

I love double set trigers, but like single set triggers only about 8.39% as much. But this is purely a Ford vs. Chevy thing.

actually, you would not have to remove the trigger for the barrel work. THought of that as soon as I hit the "post button." Of course, all of that wrok messes up the finish, and will need to be addressed in some way. But if you did not want to redo the finish on the action, then you could leave the trigger on for the barrel work.

I have had several apart and it gives me hives every time I do it (have one apart right now). One time I had to ask here just how in the $#%& I was supposed to get it back together. Some one posted a link to the CZ web site that had an exploded view of the rifle. I printed it out and keep it in the shop. TO address the original poster's question, I would go to the CZ site and print that out if I were you. I also used every "colorful" word that I am willing to say, and gave SERIOUS consideration to screaming a word or three on my self-imposed "banned list."

Okay, was I dreaming or was it announced at the last SHOT show that Timney(?), or some other major trigger manufacturer was making, or going to make, a new trigger for the CZ? Please tell me it wasn't a dream!

First time I had mine apart, I looked at the "pile of parts", said "no f**king way am I going to get that back together", and sent a check to AHR.

LD

Again, I don't know why someone would take a part that mechanism (not that there's anything wrong with that!) Personally I leave my watches, transmissions, and triggers unmolested. If I were to disassemble any of those I wouldn't find it surprising that it took a lot of effort to put them back together.

But didn't the original question have to do with bedding a stock? I see no reason to take the trigger apart for that.

As for the trigger, if one is worried about an accidental discharge it should much matter if it's a DG rifle or a .22; either can kill you or the person standing next to you. If one is worried that the CZ trigger won't operate in the normal mode, well, that's a different discussion all together.

an AD is not why I say a set trigger should not be on a DGR. A rifle that will actually be used against dangerous game has to be totally reliable and the CZ trigger is asking for problems. "if it ain't there it can't break" is a very good guide to what should be on a true DGR. And when hunting dangerous game, I can think of no reason why you would set a trigger. And remember, I hunt with a set trigger rifle at times. I like it for deer just fine, but would never use one on a real DGR.

I have had the trigger apart to make a stock from a blank for a CZ 550 Magnum in .375 one time. From the time the metal work started to the time everything was ready to go back together was over a year. That was the time I asked here for help getting the thing back together and some on thankfully gave me a link to the exploded view.

I suggest you make a stock from a blank (or even semi-inlet stock), or at least watch some one do it for a few hours. You will immediately understand why the action must be stripped. Just glass bedding in the factory stock requires that you strip the action. And it is not just a matter of taking the actual trigger blade out of the unit that causes problems. There are oodles of little parts, springs, ball detents, blades, widgets, gadgets, and stuff I can't even come up with a name for on the CZ trigger. When doing a full costom job, it will be at least sevral months between the time you start and the time you are ready to bolt everything back together. You would be amazed what I can forget in even a 3 month time period. I am not saying that I know it would happen for sure, but I have a sneaky suspicion if you took your trigger apart and put the 10 handfuls of parts in an Altoid can, you would at the very least take MUCH longer to reassemble the trigger than it took you to take it apart. I would also hazard a guess that it could possibly prompt you to ask on this forum or someone else how exactly to get the thing back together and use up all of the little, fragile parts.

The Olympic Arms BBK-01 action is the same frame as the CZ 550 Magnum. The Oly Arms has a Timney trigger from the factory. I wish CZ would change their milling cuts on the bottom of their action and just start using the Timney.

It's a free country and I don't care what other people use. If you like it, knock yourself out and install a CZ set trigger on all of your rifles. I am just giving you some reasons why many people think it is not a good idea on a DGR and even if you want a single set trigger, plus the CZ design absolutely sucks from a gunmaker's point of view. You can buy a single set Kepplinger for a Mauser and it is a work of art. And it is all a self-contained unit. Night and day from the CZ set up.

Fella's WOW is all I can say! I've been away from the puter for a couple days and all these post, cool. I am not wanting to take the trigger apart just remove it so I can glass bed the action (Stuck one once and that's enough) this trigger is on a CZ527 17 Remington so no dangerous game here unless you put in those charging Texas pasture maggots! this trigger is set fine for what I'm doing got it adjusted to where the creap is gone and normally shoot it set anyway. I was just curious if I took the trigger off the action if it would grenade and go into many pieces? Later fella's and thanks for posting.

Kirk

Ksmirk: I noticed you said that you glassbed everything in the action area. I glassbedded my CZ 527 with not one problem. I didn't have to take the trigger out either. There was no need to do that, but then I glassbedded the rear tang, the receiver ring area, the recoil lug area and the first inch and one half of the barrel. I did the uppper metal (Barreled Action area) first and secured it with a semi-firm wrap or two of surgical tubing. I glass bedded the bottom metal on the tangs only and that was just a skim bed job. In the process of the upper metal I made sure I free-floated the bearrel so two dollar bills would pass. As far as the CZ 527 trigger being complicated, sure, it looks that way. It also looks like there's a boatload of parts to it. In my experience though, the thing just plain works, parts and all. It is highly adjustable and I like that. If I don't want to use the set feature, no one is forcing me to use it. I simply don't push the regular trigger forward. The point about it not being a dangerous game rifle because of the complicated trigger, from what I understand there are a boatload of professional hunters in Africa using the CZ 550s, triggers and all, for their every-day carry rifles. Thanks for your time ... Tom Purdom

If you don't want the set trigger and want simple. Timney makes one for both the 550 & 550M

I guess I get a little messy with the bedding! I have done what you say 7x57mm on several rifles which I belive is the direction I am going to go on this one, the thing about a dangerous game rifle was from a poster above Marc I belive.
ramrod340, I love this trigger and have posted that I like it but thanks for the info on the Timney! I just like to remove everything from the action when I glassbed, like I said I can get messy and would rather not bed the whole thing together! done it once and would rather not go thru that again. Thanks again fella's! Later,

Kirk

quote:

Kirk

I have never taken a CZ trigger apart. I like the feel of it. I was just posting the Timney info for those that wanted a simple trigger on their CZ. I glued one together years ago. A screw now and then. Using Gel has saved me a lot of headaches over the years.

The good news is most of those parts stay together when you take the assembly out. The thing that makes folks wrap their CZ around a tree like a pissed-off golfer is the sear return spring. Especially if you upgrade to a stronger one for reliability. I would vote for being very very careful when you bed it with the trigger in place because even if you saturate the mechanism with epoxy, it will be easier to clean it than to put that little m$%^*er f^&king spring back. I have scars on my live oak to prove it, too!

quote:

even if you saturate the mechanism with epoxy, it will be easier to clean it than to put that little m$%^*er f^&king spring back.

That bad!?!?!?!?!?!? Thanks always nice to know my limitations ahead of time.

he is putting it mildly. speaking from too much experience installing the things

ramrod340, now you know why I ask before getting into something! while I am very patient I do go off half cocked now and again, I don't have any Oak tree's but I do have a bunch of Blackjack tree's for batting practice. I think I'll just bed the tang area in the rear and recoil lug barrel area then get the scraper out and make sure the barrel does not feel wood and call it good! Fella's thanks for the advice. Later,

Kirk

In response to an earlier post, following the "if it ain't there it can't break" criteria no DG rifle would have a 3-position safety thus ruling out all M70’s, and derivatives and clones thereof. For if the bolt gets moved while the safety is in that middle position the rifle will remain out of battery when the safety is put on “fire†and might result in the DG hunter being mauled. I think we all know about a very prominent person to whom that happened in the past year or so, in fact.

No rifle is foolproof. I believe the most fool-proof rifle ever designed is the M98, but only when left as is. The moment a scope is added it’s suddenly a different product.

quote:

Most of the CZ's that get talked about here are dangerous game rifles. I feel strongly that the set trigger with lots of moving parts and little pieces has no place on a DG rifle that will actually get used in the field.

I love double set trigers, but like single set triggers only about 8.39% as much.

Boy do I agree with this! I've got two of the best, Canjars, and even those ain't much fun to use in cold weather!