Would this work getting a remington take off barrell and rethreading for yugo mauser.

Just see my by-line.

In short, it wouldn't work worth a $hit.

As Jim said if you have the money we have the time. The job required turning down & threading a sleeve onto the remie barrel then threading the sleeve for the M98 because the remington barrel shank isn't large enough to simply rethread for a M98.



you would be way ahead to rebarrel with a quailty barrel. I did the one in the photo as an experiment just because.

large ring? 1.1" threads, so measure the barrel,, ANYTHING under means no

Works better on a small ring

Doug - you do that bushing? I saw you did it as an exercise ONLY .. i would never accuse anyo e of making one for real work...

relted story - I bought an ultra light 7 barrel once, that was bushed ... it wasn't worth shipping back on the cost, so i cut it up with a chop saw

Yes Jeff I did. It is a Remie 308 win barrel that I put on a czech action & it does work fine. I would not apply the process to any magnums though.

I wouldn't do it on any rifle that was not mine. I understand the forces involved and it would work to bush a rifle barrel but I would not trust it to , One hold up worth a damn.
Two be accurate any better then a brownbess.
I just could not trust it and could not charge a customer to make such a repair unless the customer insisted upon it and was fully aware that is is simply half assed smithing or just another way to Bubba a gun

If done properly it will work fine and will be just as accurate as before the work. Where do you think the pressure works on a properly fitted bushing? It is probably not cost effective unless you have a collector barrel.
Butch

If you know what you are looking at you will see that there is NO bushing anywhere.

Or if you want to call it a bushing, the bushing ID is threaded to the barrel then the bushing OD is threaded for the action.

Oh and as far as accuracy is under 1" groups ok?

Thanks guys, didn't know so thought I'd ask.

Let's put it this way I'd trust myself to do it but not anybody else around my neck of the wood. The butchers out here that call themselves smiths is joke. Now There are a few good ones around southern california but they are few and far between. That said, now you have four thread axes that need to line up correctly. Yes it can be done . Yes if machined properly it will be fine for accuracy and durability and strength.

I just feel it's cheeping out on a barrel and it would cost just about the same to make the bushing compared to buying a new barrel. And FYI if you're talking to a machinist it's a bushing or for the technically inclined a threaded insertable bushing. Either way it's a bushing.

Kerry,
I was thinking of an inside bushing, but the threaded thing would go like this. I would first determine what size and thread that my tenon would be. I would then make a bushing from a barrel stub that was threaded inside to fit my new smaller threads on the tenon. I would make it a little longer and larger in diameter than the new major thread diameter of the mauser thread. I would then put the barrel in the headstock and indicate the chamber in 2 places, the shoulder and at the base. I would turn and thread for the bushing. Screw the bushing on with Black Max loctite. I would turn the tenon and thread. I would face the barrel off to the correct headspace.
I believe doing it that way would make it as good as the original.
Butch

Butch
You are correct But You also thought about what is needed to accomplish the repair/modification. Your procedure is the way I would do it as well as it is the only real way to be sure everything is concentric to the bore axis.

This is where some of the people in my area would just flat refuse to do it, due to lack of being able to in the first place, or giving it a go with no rhyme or reason as to the outcome and fouling it up big time.
Mechanically speaking it would be as good if not better then original and the only reason not to do it would be cost of the bushing as compared to a new fitted barrel. But if you were doing it yourself it only costs you your time.

I think that the two groove barrels on 303 Enfield No4 rifles were done the same way? Or I may be wrong! A rifled tube that had a threaded breech portion swaged on. Like a monobloc breech? And these things never had any reported problems.

Kerry,
I think that I said in my original post or second one that it may not be feasible money wise unless some type of collector value for the barrel is there. The barrel would need to have a pristine bore.
The more I think about it, it may not take just a great deal of time. Yes, I only work for myself and can look at these things another way.
Butch

If you want to use a CRF Mauser action with the Remmy barrel. Pick up a Turkish Mauser with the small Mauser barrel shank threads in the receiver. Turn .060 off the Remmy shank and rethread to small ring Mauser. I have several of these Turkingtons. They shoot good and look great with the Remmy barrels.

quote:

Originally posted by butchlambert:
Kerry,
I think that I said in my original post or second one that it may not be feasible money wise unless some type of collector value for the barrel is there. The barrel would need to have a pristine bore.
The more I think about it, it may not take just a great deal of time. Yes, I only work for myself and can look at these things another way.
Butch

No I wasn't trying to criticize your post I'm in agreement. It can be done But for a customer well maybe maybe not.

I understand Kerry. The internet sometime makes things look different than they are meant. I really need to make a better effort when I make a post.
Butch

Butch It's called the written word and it conveys no emotion except what the reader puts in to it. and that is where I myself have flown off the handle at someone over a perfectly honest post It has more to do with how we feel at the time then what is actually written, Like you said the internet can make things look different then they are meant. That's the best I've heard it described yet

One of my smithing mentors occasionally would use low-temp (~720F) silver-solder to attach the bushing to the barrel shank, then he trued and threaded the bushing. He did this in order to maximize the diameter of the original bbl over the chamber wall.
Regards, Joe