I haven't done this in about 30 years.

I think my Acragel is old (maybe 3 years old). The bedding is not rock hard. I have a void from 3 o'clock to 4 and from 8 to 9 (sides of the chamber area).



My lifter.

Heat it with a hair dryer. It might help it to cook off. What are you using for a release agent?

Factory brownells release

I had some that was given to me, maybe 10 yrs old. It did the same thing. It did fully harden eventually. I dont know how long it took, but I didnt get back to it for a couple weeks, and it was hard then.

That stuff is crap. It ruined more than one job in our shop before we switched. Use Johnson's Paste Wax or Neutral KIWI Shoe Polish. Take a camel haired brush, dip it in naphtha, then the wax. Paint it on and let it dry.

quote:

Originally posted by richj:
Factory brownells release

Totally agree; do NOT use the release agent; use Johnsons Paste wax, which they no longer make but you can still find it in some stores.
What is all the blue tape for? And a lifting device?
You are way overthinking this job!
If you have a void in the bedding, just put a dab of gel in it and bolt in the metal.
Next time call me.

The release agent worked, does it affect the gel?

My C-Clamp device pulled the action straight out of the stock.

If you use the paste wax it will fall out of the stock and not require any removal device. The trouble we've had is that it does not work and the bedding sticks to the metal, causing tear-outs. Make sure, if you are using the gel, that the resin part is loose/pliable prior to mixing. If not, it won't mix properly, and you get a bad(soft) cure. We bump it for 5-7 seconds in the microwave and that usually makes it more runny.

quote:

Factory brownells release

Never had any trouble with it.

But then I double coat every thing

If you use paste wax you don't need a pulling device since the metal will always come out of the wood easily and I did my first one in 1966. Using Herter's Model Perfect Bedding Kit. And Johnsons paste wax.

Cant find Johnsons (paste) anymore but shoe wax works. Spread your glass and hit it with your wifes hair dryer til warm, press in the metal using the guides.

Ray,
Try Trewax clear carnuba floor wax. It works better than Johnsons and is obtainable from ACE Hardware or Amazon.
Dave in Kamiah. I have used it for bedding and rifle protecting for over 20years.

I have had it turn to "sugar" in the jars (granular appearance]

Fresh is best!

Clamps. Note the thermometer. I like 100 to 110 degrees. Heat lamp suspended above the rifle. I cure for at least 24 hours, more in the winter. This is steel bed in a B&C stock. M77 tang safety.







M70:




Bedding a pattern stock:

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Cant find Johnsons (paste) anymore but shoe wax works. Spread your glass and hit it with your wifes hair dryer til warm, press in the metal using the guides.

Dang, just discovered KIWI shoe polish has been pulled from USA. Better get some Trewax while it is still here. I have used Turtle Wax car wax and it works too.

If you use any clamping device it will cause low spots in the bedding. When the glass cures you will have permanent low areas in your bedding. Same goes for tightening the action screws. You can prove this by setting up a dial indicator. When you tighten the action screws alternately it will show you the error of your ways. Bench rest competitors and High Power shooters discovered this many years ago. The barrel and action must set in the glass totally stress free.

Any paste wax works as long as it contains carnuba. Apply with a brush to get it down in all the little nooks and crannies. After applying a coat of wax and it dries, buff it off. For insurance apply a second coat and buff it off. Now you have an ultra thin coat of wax for a much closer fit.

I apply the wax with a paper towel; and why buff it off; there is no buildup.
Again, started this method in 1966. I don't understand the buffing thing.
Hair dryer on it? Why?
And yes, do NOT clamp metal into the wood. Counterproductive.
Also, if your acraglas gel turns clumpy, put it into the microwave for 3 seconds. Before they invented microwaves, we threw it away.

I agree with Craftsman, no clamping or action screws. Stress free bedding.
Phil

I don't use action screws to clamp with, but I do use them for alignment. It assures the recoil lug is properly positioned to assemble the rifle. Also, if you are bedding detachable mag rifles like Browning A-Bolts and X-Bolts make sure bedding depth is adequate for the mag to seat properly and lock in after the glass sets. I have used barrel channel shims to clamp the barrel down on while "floating" the receiver in the glass. That way, the receiver is flat and barrel free floated when the shims are removed.

Bobster I agree, I use the action screws for alignment too. I run them down to touch bottom and then back off until there is no tension. I also use close fitting bushings on the action screws to make sure they are in middle of the screw holes.

I also have had problems with the included release agent, I use turtle car wax, apply it and don't buff it off; you can see the coverage from the green color and add more if needed.

I also use the action screws to align, then back off slightly, and remove entirely after a few minutes as the bedding starts to "gel". keep the leftover portion to judge when to do that.

Seems to me the weight of the barrel will tend to make things a bit whooper-jawed wwithout SOME sort of
stabilizer.....Not true?

I think you are spot on. That's why I shim the barrel channel and float the receiver in the epoxy bedding(action screws in), but not tightened, to assure alignment between the receiver and bottom metal. In detach mag rifles, I will also coat the mag with release and insert it during curing to guarantee it will function properly. Action screws just to hold it.

Another way is to grip the barrel in a padded vise and bring the buttered stock up from below. When I do this, I will let the bedding cure slightly so it is a soft plastic consistency. I insert the action screws and bring the two together taking care to keep the bbl'd receiver level and at proper depth.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Seems to me the weight of the barrel will tend to make things a bit whooper-jawed wwithout SOME sort of
stabilizer.....Not true?

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Seems to me the weight of the barrel will tend to make things a bit whooper-jawed wwithout SOME sort of
stabilizer.....Not true?

You are spot on. Clamps are necessary with steel bed as it is very thick and will cure with some upward pressure on the barrel. I float the barrels when bedding a composite stock.

sounds like your catalyst was "weak" - it should ultimately cure, with a bit of heat

no, clamping/actions screws literally CANNOT make a low spot, assuming the action is even remotely properly inletted - if there's a huge pit under it, and there's an air bubble under it, it could expose a pocket - or, in the case of acraglass (not gel) it could pour/run out ..

the voids in the bottom photo of the OP look like too little product was used

there are several articles on stress free bedding to consult on accurateshooters.com. I've used their method several times so far and I get only very slight or no movement in the stock when I loosen/tighten the action screws. perfect!
Phil

Ive used stress free and it worked, I've used latex bands as well and it worked, Glass bedding isn't rocket science but requires some diligence and bedding knowledge..I never had any release agent fail and Ive used lots of different stuff including PAM, shoe wax, Candillia wax, varius car waxes and others, I have a good deal of shoe wax on hand It seems to me wax is wax.. Falling out of the wood? well depends on how much of the channel your bedding If crown to tang you better have a rubber mallet handy.