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One of Us |
I have a customer that has nothing better to do than spend his money on silly things. Works for me  He wants me to build him a noise suppressor for his Ruger 25-06. I have been making brakes for awhile but never a suppressor. I have the equipment I am just in need of some plans. I will apply for the permits after I see what the work entails. Any help would be appreciated. | ||
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| One of Us |
be careful - supressor mfg needs special licensing just because it's a simple thing to make doesn't mean it is legal remember the most dagerous man in the world is a machinist with a warped imagination | |||
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| One of Us |
I have two purchased suppressors (one for my .22, the other on a .308). These are both very simple, just a tube with a single baffle in it, around 3" from the end. These are actually quite effective. The .22 one is so effective that with subsonic ammunition and a sufficiently distant target that one can't hear the bullet strike, it sounds like the rifle is being dry-fired. The .308 with subsonic ammo is quieter than the bullet strike too, but that is quite loud already, especially if the target is close by. Another advantage of them is that on both these rifles they enhance accuracy significantly (I reckon they cut group sizes by at least 30%). I have a book that states that there is a formula for determining where this baffle should be. Basically, the theory is that, when the bullet exits the muzzle, the gas cloud passes it, but it quickly slows down as it has very little mass. At some point, the bullet passes the gas cloud, and it is at this point the baffle should be. I then built a suppressor (it was legal here at the time) for my .44-40, in which I could infinitely adjust the position of this baffle. I found that the position of the baffle made very little difference. The most important aspect is that the suppressor should be large enough to capture all the gas. The bigger it is, the better, although of course there is a diminishing return. I then made a second set of internals for the same outer body. This consisted of an inner tube with three or four baffles in it, and drilled full of holes. Between the inner and outer tubes, I had fewer baffles. However, there were no holes in the inner tube between the last baffle and the outlet. This design was more effective than the single-baffle design, but not all that much. However, it was effective enough that one could hear the bullet in flight from behind the rifle. Lastly I made a muzzle adapter allowing one to screw a 2l plastic drinks bottle to the muzzle. This was very effective for the first couple of rounds, but of course obscured the sights. My conclusion is that, although many manufacturers go to vast lengths making strangely-shaped baffles, a relatively simple design can actually be very effective as long as it is large enough. If one has to compromise on size, a more complex interior design does pay dividends, but you are fighting a losing battle. One last note: on a metal suppressor, effectiveness can be significantly improved by pulling a loose sock or a foam tube around it. The disadvantage is that this makes them get hot a lot quicker, thus reducing how fast you can shoot. | |||
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| One of Us |
That is why I want some plans or something to at least look at. I am aware it requires a license. I want to see what it entails before I get a license and agree to do the job. | |||
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Moderator |
unless you have a business plan and a firearms friendly lawyer, just NO. creation of increased, constrained, surface area is a non-issue - doing it legally in the US is a hike opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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| one of us |
The thrash and cost of getting the appropriate licensing to make one or two suppressors for sale would make little sense unless time and money are no object. He should just buy a couple from people who are in the business who have perfected the art | |||
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One of Us |
What Brad and Jeffe said.... Doug Wilhelmi NRA Life Member | |||
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| One of Us |
Your ingenuity continues to impress, Peter! | |||
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| One of Us |
Sadly, this was my instructor's evaluation of me when I graduated trade school years ago... | |||
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| One of Us |
he can buy what is called a solvent trap and the freeze plugs that become the baffles and end caps then you can center hole the plugs then you have a suppressor but you do not touch the can.you put a serial number of any kind then he does a form 1 pays for the tax stamp then waits about 4-6 weeks for the ok to use it. | |||
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One of Us |
Highly recommend suppressor covers - my friends and I use Armageddon Gear https://www.armageddongear.com/Suppressor-Covers "Evil is powerless if the good are unafraid" -- Ronald Reagan "Ignorance of The People gives strength to totalitarians." Want to make just about anything work better? Keep the government as far away from it as possible, then step back and behold the wonderment and goodness. | |||
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| One of Us |
US$75 seems a lot for a glorified vibrator cozy, although I realize putting "camo" on something automatically doubles the price. My mother could have run something off on her sewing machine for a lot less. | |||
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| One of Us |
I'm not conversant with your laws regarding suppressors, since they're ganz verboten here, but I can't help but observe that, for what machining is involved, they have what I consider to be a very generous profit margin. If you have an effective, basic design, and you feel the hoops you must jump through are justified, you may want to consider a sideline in economy-grade suppressors. Pick a handful of popular calibers, leave out the titanium, and crank out parts. Of course, you might want to disregard my advice on the matter, what with me being a dangerous man with a warped imagination. | |||
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| One of Us |
It's much easier (in terms of paper) for your customer to buy one. Next easiest is for him to make it himself. Hardest is to make them for sale. Similar to ATF rules for beer. You can buy it already made, and you can make a small amount for personal use, but to be a producer is a much bigger pile of paper. | |||
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| one of us |
Do they increase the performance of the suppressor or just make it easier to handle them when hot? Use enough gun... Shoot 'till it's dead, especially if it bites. | |||
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| one of us |
Yes, have the client buy a solvent trap, file an e-file form 1 (very easy to do) and then have him come over and use your machinery to drill the holes AFTER the form 1 is approved (about a month right now.) you cannot do this for him because they cannot be transferred if you are not a licensed NFA manufacturer. Or he can buy a suppressor through a dealer and wait for the approval (currently 6 months or so.) Use enough gun... Shoot 'till it's dead, especially if it bites. | |||
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| One of Us |
All joking aside, yes, they do. Think of a suppressor as a piece of bare metal. Like a bell. Or a metal pot. Bang on the pot with a spoon. Clang, clang. Fill it with a towel. Or sand. Thunk, thunk. Same principle. The only problem with a suppressor sock is, it holds in the heat, which would become a problem in a range session. For the same reason, it should be made of something heat resistant. I'd be interested in trying heat-resistant silicone sheet or tubing, if it were me. On the other hand, if you're the one-shot-kill type of shooter (or you're only planning the one assassination), something simple like split plumbing insulation and a few zip-ties will do fine. | |||
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One of Us |
Suppressors are freely available and used here in NZ. I don't know the actual percentage but judging by what I see at the range and in the field, a suppressor now is the rule rather than the exception, fitted to any calibre up to and including the magnums. Both my sons have them on their 7mm-08, as yet I haven't got around to fitting one to my own. Most use a thick neoprene sock over the suppressor to further cut sound and prevent damage if the unit is banged against rocks etc. For centrefire rifles the barrel is usually shortened to 20-22" and the suppressor comes up over the barrel stopping just short of the forend i.e. not just hanging off the muzzle. To any doubters, THEY REALLY WORK. Once you use a suppressor on the range or in the field, you wouldn't do without one. They not only tame noise, they tame recoil too, whether actual or just impression from less sound. Photo below of my youngest son's Weatherby Vanguard with typical suppressor installation and neoprene sock (young nanny tahr shot for meat).  | |||
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| one of us |
Some interesting information on making suppressors in the USA. https://www.ammoland.com/2020/...ilencers-in-america/ | |||
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