I have a couple of rifles that don't have enough drop at comb and heel to fit me. What is a safe distance in bending the stock down and not for cast.

I need 1/4" more drop at comb and 13/16" at heel.
Is it possible or I will take a risk of breaking the stock.

Assuming that extra drop forms a straight line. Meaning if you take the current line and drop the heel by 13/16 the comb is 1/4. A good stock smith can probably bend it that far. Heat and/or hot oil. Results on the finish???

I simply cheat cut a groove drive in a wedge and cut a new stock.

ramrod340 thank you for the reply.
I will try the oil method first.

To better understand your last thought. Do you rasp down the top of the stock from heel to comb to match the dimension. Then cut a groove from the toe towards the pistol grip. Wedge a piece of walnut like a biscut joiner, then glue a replacement piece on the entire bottom and rasp to dimension. Making sure the integrity and dimension of the recoil pad is adequet and functional.

witchcraft!

stock bending with hot oil

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZBtS_WlcG4

quote:

Originally posted by Von Gruff:
stock bending with hot oil

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZBtS_WlcG4

That couldn't have been recorded in Jacks' shop, too clean. I've been to his shop, you can't hardly move around 'cause of all the 'stuff' !

I bend quite a few stocks. While not at all witch craft, it does take some time to get a feel for it. Each piece of wood is different. Wood typically springs back a substantial amount therefor you need to push things farther than your final goal. 13/16" is is HUGE bend. Post some pictures of your stock but my guess is another method will likely suite your situation better.
Steve

quote:

To better understand your last thought. Do you rasp down the top of the stock from heel to comb to match the dimension

I have a duplicator. So if "I" or a customer has a stock and they want to increase the drop or offset the butt etc I cut a groove in the grip and drive in a wedge moving the butt in the direction needed. Epoxy the cut and then use that altered stock as the pattern to copy. The original is no longer a useable stock.

stock bending is for shotguns and for cast off..why would you want to bend a stock down, if you do you will create recoil that goes UP..a stock put under stress that will probably be unstable.

Take a rasp and cut the top of the comb down to fit...recoil will remain the same..stock will maintain its present reliability and create recoil that goes UP less and back more, a good balance when you split the G forces.

Like Jeffe said, "Witch craft"

Just Don't burn me at the stake.....I have bent three guns this week. Stock bending is usually for shotguns but I have bent several rifles. Bending can be for cast off, cast on, more or less drop. It depends upon the piece of wood and the clients needs. As I expressed in my first post, given this posters needs, another solution would likely be much better. Open those minds guys......

While it has been a NUMBER of years. I bent a couple shotguns back in the 70s still going strong. Also increased the drop (less than the 13/16s) on a Sharps 45-90 replica in the early 80s. While many would not call that a BIGbore It got my attention. Last I heard it is still going strong.

Confused how bending the grain is going to make it weaker? If it were mine I'd use the current stock alter it and cut a new copy. But hey I run a duplicator.

As a student of the gun, I like many, ended up with too many. Eventually you sell and upgrade... never ending.
I respect the pioneers "British" in their quest to custom tailer a long gun to fit the individual shooter. We are all built different. I have always made do. Now I am at a point in my life, where making do is not good enough.
Why is it acceptable to alter the shotgun to aid in quick snap shooting clay or birds but not for the rifle that might have to stop DG. I don't want to make myself fit the gun but the other way around.
The wisest move I made a few years ago, was to get custom fitted for long guns by a true professional. Mr. James Tucker in Medford Or.

Now I am in the process of fixing the past wrongs. Personally, when you purchase or commission a rifle, spend thousands and you end up with basic dimension to fit the average Joe, is a waste of money and definitely not custom until it fits you. It is basically a tuxedo, who's do you want to wear.
Many patch the drop in the stock by installing high or extra high rings !!!!!!!, instead of low's or extra low and a better contoured stock.

The second wise move, is to get a stock built to your measurements and use it as a base for all future builds. A pantograph machine is a blessing in saving time, money and consistent results. Obviously different actions and barrel contours will require special inletting.

The two rifles that were the origin of this post were sequenced wrong from the beginning. I should have had them altered to me before I spent good money putting the bling on that will possibly be worth zero if they snap and be altered to a blank. Totally my mistake. I will post some photos when I can get some help doing it.
I am slowly recuperating from a full knee replacement surgery, or I would be building a jig to bend them myself. Anyone wants to try, pm me.
Thanks to all of you for your inputs.
Charles

I don't think Im being close minded, but I won't take that out of the equasion..I just know wood and its stability and putting pressure on marble cake is a recipe for disaster in my humble opinnon..

Cast off bending is one thing on a shotgun, and that's fine but lowering or raising a comb is a whole nuther ball game but even at that, if I wanted cast off on a rifle I would build a new stock and cut the cast off into the wood, not bend it, Rifle stocks may be asked to survive polar weather, rain and humidity. woods worst enemy..

I watched Bill Nittler bend stocks with hot oil. He'd bend them every which way and I've seen his stocks many years later..they stayed put . I have to clarify these were mostly shotgun stocks, good English walnut

I use heat lamp's on the wrist area, having wrapped them first with aluminum wire. No fancy set up, I clamp them rigidly in the mill, you can simply dial in the needed bend PLUS allowing a little spring back.