The Accurate Reloading Forums
Red loc tite removal tricks?
29 March 2015, 03:40
Triple4Red loc tite removal tricks?
Just bought a used rifle that has residual Red loc tite on the receiver where the scope bases were mounted. Looking for tricks to remove the red loc tite from metal surface of the receiver without removing the bluing.
Thanks.
I would hit it with the tip of a propane torch; doesn't take much to turn the loctite into powder. And wd40 and steel wool; won't remove bluing.
Like the man says: Heat. And good luck removing the base screws if those ever need to come out. More heat. I wish people would quit using red loctite on guns. Blue is plenty strong for just about anything and much easier to get apart. But 99.9% of everybody here knows that already. Whenever I have to work on red loctited gun screws I add about 50% for aggravation. And my advice to anybody contemplating a used gun with screws that are so attached would be to knock off several bucks for the same reason.. But then I'm old and can get cranky from time to time. Perhaps I best serve as a bad example..
A good job is sometimes just a series of expertly fixed fark-ups.
Let's see.... is it 20 years experience or is it 1 years experience 20 times?
And I will have you know that I am not an old fart. I am a curmudgeon. A curmudgeon is an old fart with an extensive vocabulary and a really bad attitude.
29 March 2015, 06:07
jimatcatsoldering iron held on the offending screw for a few seconds....
go big or go home ........
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29 March 2015, 06:10
speerchucker30x378Acetone.
ADD NOTE: If you don't have any acetone use your wife's finger nail polish remover. That's acetone too.
When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
Just another observation.... The red loctite I've encountered has seemed to take noticeably higher heat to break than blue. Although I've never measured it. Might just be dreaming.
And Speerchucker30x378... acetone. Interesting. By itself? Heat too? (I could see where that might get interesting.) Soak time? I know acetone and ATF 50:50 works as a rust buster but never tried it for loctite. Just curious.
A good job is sometimes just a series of expertly fixed fark-ups.
Let's see.... is it 20 years experience or is it 1 years experience 20 times?
And I will have you know that I am not an old fart. I am a curmudgeon. A curmudgeon is an old fart with an extensive vocabulary and a really bad attitude.
29 March 2015, 06:47
speerchucker30x378quote:
Originally posted by H47:
Just another observation.... The red loctite I've encountered has seemed to take noticeably higher heat to break than blue. Although I've never measured it. Might just be dreaming.
And Speerchucker30x378... acetone. Interesting. By itself? Heat too? (I could see where that might get interesting.) Soak time? I know acetone and ATF 50:50 works as a rust buster but never tried it for loctite. Just curious.
loctite is nothing more than a Cyanoacrylate Glue. Loctite has been recomending acetone to remove it for as long as I can remember and I have been using it for about that long. Don't get it on plastics or wood stocks. It will eat certain plastics and stock finishes.
I saturate a cleaning patch with acetone and lay it over the area with the loctite for a minute or so and then use a fresh bit of towel soaked in acetone and just wipe it off.
It eats that crap faster than a fat convention can eat up a smorgasbord.
ADD NOTE: Eats all the crazy glues too.
When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
29 March 2015, 07:50
Triple4This forum is fantastic!
Carefully applied acetone (a.k.a. nail polish remover) to the Red loc tite areas and let soak for a short period. It took a few applications. It didn't wipe off but some chipped off by scraping with my fingernail. The rest I carefully scraped off with a brass screwdriver-looking bit (designed for scraping/cleaning the breech end of a flintlock muzzleloader barrel). I used fine steel wool and WD-40 to remove the brass marks. The patient is a Marlin 1895 so the top of the receiver is a little more rugged and can handle slightly more aggressive approach.
I tried a propane torch briefly but it didn't seem to do much. Honestly, I didn't give it much of a chance because I was simply scared of torching my new used rifle or overheating it somehow.
Thanks for your help!
29 March 2015, 08:40
speerchucker30x378quote:
Originally posted by Triple4:
This forum is fantastic!
Carefully applied acetone (a.k.a. nail polish remover) to the Red loc tite areas and let soak for a short period. It took a few applications. It didn't wipe off but some chipped off by scraping with my fingernail. The rest I carefully scraped off with a brass screwdriver-looking bit (designed for scraping/cleaning the breech end of a flintlock muzzleloader barrel). I used fine steel wool and WD-40 to remove the brass marks. The patient is a Marlin 1895 so the top of the receiver is a little more rugged and can handle slightly more aggressive approach.
I tried a propane torch briefly but it didn't seem to do much. Honestly, I didn't give it much of a chance because I was simply scared of torching my new used rifle or overheating it somehow.
Thanks for your help!
Nail polish remover is only 30 to 60% acetone. It will say on the bottle what the percentage is. Pure acetone works a lot better. I buy it by the bottle from lapidary suppliers. Nail polish remover works in a pinch. With nail polish remover lay 2 or three patches soaked with the stuff on the dry loctite for 3 minutes or so and refresh if it dries out. It will eat it up.
When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
29 March 2015, 16:51
jeffeossomake certain the remover doesn't say acetone free -- they are moving the suspected cancer causing agents out of beauty products
get a cheap screw driver that fits the screw... then put your torch on the screw driver tip until HOT -- bright yellow/straw .. turn off torch, put screw driver on screw until dull...
then try another screw driver while hot and see if it comes out...
repeat
29 March 2015, 18:31
Chuck NelsonIt's funny how many people are giving advice on removing screws when he's not removing screws.
29 March 2015, 18:36
jeffeossoThank you Chuck .. DOH! I am guilty !!
04 April 2015, 00:21
AtkinsonI use a butane cooks torch, it has a micro small flame, stick on the glue until you get a bubble I suppose and wipe the stuff off. Does not hurt the blue. Mostly I have used it to get a screw out, but it works on both. Not sure that anything is gained by removing the stuff as it gives the screw or plugs a better bite and the stuff on top of the action can be scraped off with a brass bar or plastic chisel, neither of which will mar the surface.
Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120
rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
04 April 2015, 04:05
jørgenLoctite or 2 komponent epoxy as a beddingcompound under scopebases, is THE best and almost only way to make a perfect fit and microhold of your scopebases. Then you only need to use 20-30% of the strength of the screw to keep the base in place. Leaving you with 70-80% of the screwstrength to handle recoil.
Soly relying on torque or hammertightening use from 60-90% of the strength of the screw just to create needed friction. Only leaving 10-40% to handle the recoil. And throwing away the micro friction in all the surface imperfections, to increace recoil handeling capacity.
A properly bedded base with only Applied the neceseary torque will always withstand from 2-4 times more recoil than a hammertightende screwclamp
PS Speerchucker do you originally come from Sweden, as you use the Word Smorgasbord
04 April 2015, 04:10
shootawayquote:
Originally posted by jørgen:
Loctite or 2 komponent epoxy as a beddingcompound under scopebases, is THE best and almost only way to make a perfect fit and microhold of your scopebases. Then you only need to use 20-30% of the strength of the screw to keep the base in place. Leaving you with 70-80% of the screwstrength to handle recoil.
Soly relying on torque or hammertightening use from 60-90% of the strength of the screw just to create needed friction. Only leaving 10-40% to handle the recoil. And throwing away the micro friction in all the surface imperfections, to increace recoil handeling capacity.
A properly bedded base with only Applied the neceseary torque will always withstand from 2-4 times more recoil than a hammertightende screwclamp
PS Speerchucker do you originally come from Sweden, as you use the Word Smorgasbord
I agree.
04 April 2015, 04:16
shootawayThere are people who build rifles but have no idea how rifles work.Then there are those that know rifles but do not build rifles.If I were building rifles I would invent a special screw that locks but can easily be unscrewed so that a rifle can be oiled.I think the best oils can only go 15 days or so before they can no longer prevent rust.Rifles need to be taken apart.
When we are talking big bores a tight and locked screw is the most important thing on a rifle.
04 April 2015, 04:57
Triple4I had never heard of using loctite or epoxy for bedding scope bases and the reason for it...but it certainly explains why there was so much on top of the receiver of my new/used Marlin 1895 450 Marlin. Thanks for the education!
That will certainly be another consideration when I choose scope mounting options for this big bore.
04 April 2015, 05:28
speerchucker30x378PS Speerchucker do you originally come from Sweden, as you use the Word Smorgasbord
[/QUOTE]
I agree.[/QUOTE]
Canadian fodt Dansker.
When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
04 April 2015, 14:21
jørgenquote:
Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
PS Speerchucker do you originally come from Sweden, as you use the Word Smorgasbord
I agree.[/QUOTE]
Canadian fodt Dansker.[/QUOTE]
Så hedder det da ikke smorgåsbord, men smørrebrød
04 April 2015, 15:46
shootawayWhen I had my Steyr Mannlicher I bought the original detachable mounts and rings for it.The fellows I bought it from have been selling rifles and installing scopes for nearly 50 years(probably the largest or most successful gun store in the entire country).Once when I was shooting it the rifle started spraying somewhat.I checked nearly everything and could not find the issue.The screws on the rings were thelast thing I would suspect.To my surprise the screws were nearly uncrewed.I let the gun store owner know and he turned to his brother in lawand gave him a look of disapproval.From then on I always saw them use red loctite all the time and they install several every day.
04 April 2015, 19:27
speerchucker30x378quote:
Originally posted by jørgen:
quote:
Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
PS Speerchucker do you originally come from Sweden, as you use the Word Smorgasbord
I agree.
Canadian fodt Dansker.[/QUOTE]
Så hedder det da ikke smorgåsbord, men smørrebrød
[/QUOTE]
What smorgasbord means to Americans: All you can eat buffet for $6.99 !
What smorgasbord means to Danes: Don't go over to the Henrickson home for lunch. They are serving leftovers again!
When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
05 April 2015, 03:43
butchlambertI bed my bases with JB Weld. I put nothing on the threads.
05 April 2015, 05:50
Steve E.I usually clean up Loc Tite with a little carb cleaner on a shop rag. It works for me on fresh or hardened up Loc Tite. Be extra careful and keep it away from any wood/finish.
Steve.........
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