Just finished up prepping a fiberglass stock. It is I believe an older HS precision. It was a stock my dad bought 20 some years ago. It was unfinished and needed quite abit of body work to fill small voids in the resin and to get rid of the fiberglass fuzz. So I now have some exposed fiberglass resin and the rest of the stock surface is body filler putty.

I am now ready for paint. I figure as long as the stock is primed I can hit it with any type of spray paint. Not looking for the latest and greatest finish. Just need some suggestions for a decent finish that will also give some texture. Looking to save money on the stock as the metal is going to be cerakoted which I cannot do myself and is eating up more than half my budget for the gun. Thanks for any advice.

My H-S Precision stock has amounts of kevlar and graphite along with fiberglas.

As an autobody tech, I'd suggest spraying your whole stock with a non-sanding sealer first. That will assure no bleed through from whats underneath.

Then spray a double wet coat of a flattened single stage automotive paint like Dupont's Centari enamel in your choice of base color, like tan or green or black. Then choose your spiderweb color to contrast with the base color. Turn the pressure way down on your spray gun and make sure not to thin the paint too much...that's how to get the paint to spritz out the nozzle instead of spray.

Krylon fusion camo paints

For texture Duplicolor spray on bedliner in the rattle can does great. It will also accept paint over the top of it if you want something other than black.

Thanks for the advice. Wondering with the spray on liner what is the finish? Looking for flat finish with little to no shine. Also how thick does it go on? The stock is barely a pound right now don't want to add much weight.

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
Krylon fusion camo paints

With weight concerns, use sand for texture

Krylon Fusion...

quote:

Originally posted by onefunzr2:
My H-S Precision stock has amounts of kevlar and graphite along with fiberglas.

As an autobody tech, I'd suggest spraying your whole stock with a non-sanding sealer first. That will assure no bleed through from whats underneath.

Then spray a double wet coat of a flattened single stage automotive paint like Dupont's Centari enamel in your choice of base color, like tan or green or black. Then choose your spiderweb color to contrast with the base color. Turn the pressure way down on your spray gun and make sure not to thin the paint too much...that's how to get the paint to spritz out the nozzle instead of spray.

Dave,

What would materials alone cost to do a job like this? I already have the spray guns. What non-sanding sealer do you recomend?

BTW looks like we are neighbors.

Thank you, Tony

quote:

mike7mm08

H.S. PRECISION. DYNAMICALLY STABLE KEVLAR & CARBON FIBER BLACK STOCK, AIRCRAFT EPOXY . Hope you didn't use bondo !.

http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Paint-Fiberglass

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/...00_175003000_175-3-0

http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html

The Fatal flaw here was using PPG product

http://www.autobodystore.com/filler_&_epoxy.shtml

When absolute protection is required for Fiberglass or Epoxy select the BEST primer for the job !. Watch the Video
Yes I know this is WAY WAY overboard for a Stock it may be informative for some of you .

http://www.jamestowndistributo...tertite+Epoxy+Filler

Two-Part Urethane Paints (polyurethane) & Clear-Coats


The following is an introduction into 2-part urethane's and 2 part urethane clear-coats. These two-part LPU paints are perhaps the best performing coatings (low yellowing, high gloss, durable and tough physically and chemically) available for brush, roller or conventional spray application. ( Also available in Flat Matt or Semi Gloss ) .


Most, of not all, 2-part urethane paints are either acrylic polyurethane paints or polyester polyurethanes paints. Sometimes the prefix “poly” is left off. These are also called linear (or aliphatic) urethanes, or LPUs (linear poly-urethanes). In any case, lots of ‘keywords’ for generally two kinds of 2-part
polyurethanes.

Polyester (poly) urethanes are considered the ‘best’. Compared to acrylic (poly) urethanes the polyesters are more abrasion resistant, stain resistant, and more chemical resistant. You’ll find polyester urethanes on jet airplanes, and on the floors of the hangers these airplanes live in. Boat owners should
note that operating a boat in water, especially seawater, is very much a chemical environment. Two very well known 2-part marine paints, (we will not say their names) are polyester urethanes.or acrylic/polyester urethane blends.

Acrylic urethane coatings are a bit cheaper and generally one notch down from the polyester urethane paints in terms of toughness and chemical resistance, but still above ‘regular’ paints. Acrylic urethanes are found in clear-coats used in the automobile industry and ‘city water towers’ that grace many
small towns in America. Boat owners should note that Awlcraft 2000 (tm) is an acrylic urethane, as probably are most of the 2 part urethanes sold in marine catalogs that don’t specify if they are polyester urethanes or acrylic urethanes.

APPLICATION PROPERTIES: Both kinds of urethanes contain large amounts of solvents and thus have a strong solvent smell. That said, additional solvents are often added during application. In the urethane world solvents are called reducers. There are ‘fast reducers’ for spray application. These speed up the time it takes for the urethane to ‘gel’ on the surface. “Slow reducers” slow down the gel time for more working time when applying by brush.

Brushing on a two-part urethane is not like brushing on a varnish or oil based enamel. The thin, almost watery urethane (you’ll probably need two coats or more to cover) starts to ‘gel’ on the surface quickly. Unlike varnish, you’ll get 2 or 3 brush strokes and then, like it or not, it’s time to move on. An application method called ‘tip and roll’ gets almost sprayer like results by applying the urethane with a roller and then gently removing the roller marks with the tip of a brush. If is likely you will not be happy with the results of a brushed on application on such things as boat hulls, epoxy table tops,etc...

In my experience, both the acrylic and polyester urethane coatings go on about the same, but the general view is that the acrylics are slightly easier and friendlier to apply and, perhaps, repair.

Urethane’s weakest link is their adhesion. Because of that they are often applied over an epoxy primer. Besides priming the surface the epoxies tend to ‘level the surface’ too, important because the high gloss urethane's will show every flaw magnified !.

Have fun ; http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/paint.html

I did use bondo but their fiberglass specific filler not their standard body filler. No adhesion problems at all. Most areas required nothing more than a skim coat. Thats a lot of good info in your post. But a little more than I want to do or think I need to do. The gun is going to mainly be used by my dad. He is disabled and has a permit to hunt from a vehicle. So minimal exposure to the elements and the stock will not be subjected to any hard use. Did a lot of research online and I am leaning towards the spray on bedliner. The non rubberized stuff goes on like spraypaint not very thick and provides good texture. Easy to touch up as well.

quote:

Originally posted by tony300wby:

Dave,

What would materials alone cost to do a job like this? I already have the spray guns. What non-sanding sealer do you recomend?

BTW looks like we are neighbors.

Thank you, Tony

It would cost you a fortune if you had to go to an autobody supply and buy gallons of every needed component and have the remainder sit on your shelf for the rest of your life.

Some thing like Limco LS800 sealer or any other brand non-isocyanate 2K sealer.

A novel idea would be to send it to someone that actually paints stocks.

I put up the info for the purpose of educating those unfamiliar with Composite stocks . Whether they be fiberglass epoxy or other synthetic plastics ,all present a unique preparation for proper material adhesion . The key is ADHESION ,regardless of which type of paint one uses .

I myself prefer the nastiest plural component concoction I can manifest , why ?. I really only like doing the job once ,an if I should change my mind on it's color scheme, years down the road , I know I've got a SOLID BASE in which to overcoat .

I no longer list the materials I use , as there not available too the general public . For durability of coatings think Aviation ,Ocean transport, Industrial coatings for chemical piping ,saltwater structures , Military toys garage floors . Why , those types of coatings LAST and LAST . Plus most all of them are impervious too the cleaning fluids you would use cleaning your firearms !.

For those of you who don't own a spray rig ,don't fret this is your answer !.Click the video an what's that some one is spraying !.

http://www.preval.com/what-is-...fthacCFQdMgwod8VzReA

If anyone lives around a Boat yard or fiberglass repair facility it's possible to purchase small quantity's of ,I prefer Vinyl Ester primer and gel coats . Take your own containers with secure fitting lids an ask all they can say is NO . Gel coat MEKP Surfacing agent and if you want to splatter spray web design you'll need a small quantity of webbing solution . Base white gel coat an Black or Green or which ever color scheme you chose . Then you can go too your local home center an purchase Fiberglass colorant in small little tubes . Use it for tinting your base white ,brown tan or gray ,blue pink or whatever floats your pride . If you use web solution ,the Webbing gives raised grip nodes automatically ,you can also use various poly grit additives for textures .

http://www.duratec1.com/Produc...mes%20&%20Codes.html

Two kinds of people in the world . Those that try that might and those that don't that won't !.

Again you have given some great info. But as with many things there is not always a need to take things to the highest level. For typical use your typical spray can automotive primer designed for fiberglass and epoxy resins, there are several I have found and the label does say epoxy resins, will work fine. Once that is on adhesion of anything else you choose should not be any problem. Would I subject the stock to everyday use in coastal Alaska of course not. For the week or two of hunting with minimal exposure to the elemants,the absolutely most this gun will see each year the highend finish is not needed. Would I like to go that route sure. But I can buy a lot of rattle can paint for the cost of having someone paint the stock. If I have to touch it up once a year so be it. Ten minutes maybe ten bucks for a can of paint or bedliner. Lets face it a bit of missing stock finish is not gonna render the rifle unusable during a hunt.

The higher end materials also lead to possible issues with unfamiliarity. I know how to spray paint. I don't need to be learning a new product on a highend stock that I already have put a fair amount of time in to get right. Don't want to be stripping down and starting over.

In closing let me ask the question a little different. What is a good user friendly finish that people have used on a fiberglass stock that showed acceptable durability that might require the occasional touchup? I am leaning towards the Dupli Color bedliner. But I open to other suggestions. Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by mike7mm08:
In closing let me ask the question a little different. What is a good user friendly finish that people have used on a fiberglass stock that showed acceptable durability that might require the occasional touchup?

Simple: Krylon Fusion. No primer, just two or three medium coats of the paint.

I used to paint cars and I would never consider painting a car without using primer and a coat of sealer before applying the top-coat.

But this is not a car! It is a hunting rifle stock the will get scratched-up. Applying extra coats of paint/primer/sealer will guarantee that each scratch will look even worse.

Sand the stock with 220 grit paper, clean with a mild solvent such as lacquer thinner, then spray the Krylon Fusion paint directly onto the stock.

The Fusion paint is formulated to adhere without extra prep, and lightly sanding the stock will give it more than enough "surface" to bite onto.

quote:

Krylon Fusion.

Or Bed liner material as you already suggested such as ; http://www.grizzlygrip.com/

http://www.levineautoparts.com/duptrucbedli.html http://www.nonslipcoating.com/

As I suggested anything which floats your boat . If one has fundamental knowledge of spraying basic paints , the the learning curve is minimal with different materials involved . An exception could be LPU isocyanates coatings an exactly why I don't list them .

Everyone has their experiences and opinions.

My suggestion is how I intend to paint my Browning Stalker stock. If I have my druthers, I'd rather use a paint that cures by chemical reaction between 1 to 3 component additives, than one that dries by simple evaporation of the solvent carrier like out of a rattle can.

While in Alaska and now, use a paint purchased from hobby shops for engine driven model airplanes. 21st Century is brand and can be had in mil spec colors, or plain flat black or earth. Fuel used for these models eats most paints and it will not react with this paint and is very durable. Definitely spray outside, has very nasty fumes/odor. Let dry for two to three days and good to go. It dries in minutes but takes some days to get rid of the odor. Have lightly sanded stock prior to using and have not sanded and no problems either way. Negative is that if you want to remove it, takes a lot of effort to do so.