I have a blank that is dry i.e. no varnish. I would like to see how this blank may turn out, so should I vanish it and what type of varnish should I use???? or should I just leave it as is???

Thanks for you help

if it is dry, and you are certain, go ahead and wax the ends (melted parafin works) and slap 2 coats of poly on it.. or just wipe melted wax on it..

this will prevent some bugs, moisture changes, and staining.. at least for me,

jeffe

Jim,

If you just want to see what it might look like "finished", just wipe the surface with a cloth moistened with water or rubbing alcohol. Both will soon evaporate. Of course, if you want to admire it "constantly" , apply some finish. The results with either method depend on the smoothness of the blank's surface.

Glen, you got it ....I have no experience with this, so if you guys could suggest a type or brand of finish/varnish to use?? I appreciate the help.

The blank was cut in 2001 and mositure content is 9% and it has already been waxed on the ends.

Thanks for the help!

sorry, i misread your post.. somehow my little brain thought you were asking how to store it.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jjs:
I have a blank that is dry i.e. no varnish. I would like to see how this blank may turn out, so should I vanish it and what type of varnish should I use???? or should I just leave it as is???

Thanks for your help(QUOTE)



Try a coat or two of Birchwood Casey tru oil.
Brings out the color and figure, such as
fiddle, etc.

Can be purchased almost anywhere, even Wallyworld.

Wipe it with paint thinner. It will give you the color and not raise the grain like water would.

I use a little tung oil finish (to coat a blank) but I use that on all my woodworking projects, stocks included

Jim,
The best way to see the grain of an unfinished stock blank is simply to wipe it with water. Don't be concerned about raising the grain as the blank will get cut later, I would not apply any finish to the blank but would allow it to continue to "cure" until ready for machining. While the stock may be "dry", allowing it to cure won't hurt. A lot of stockmakers like blanks that are >5 years old and a plain blank is more likely to cure than one coated with finish.

you can put all the finish on it that you want and it will not stop water from going into and out of the stock. All a stock finish does is slow it down (hopefully slow it down enough that during normal trips to the field the stock will not gain or lose enough moisture to checnge dimensions).

ANy polyurethane or varnish or whatever will work as good as any other. It will be cut off when making the stock and does not matter right now.One thing I do advise is to put it on both sides of the blank. You don't want the moisture migration, both into and out of the stock, to be uneven from side to side.