I'd buy one too.

I would also like to purchase one.

I would also like to purchase one.

Yep I'd like to buy one too - about to build a 404J on a VZ24 and this is exactly what I'm after

The folks in Australia can get them from Roger Vardy..just pay him direct.

Otherwise, shipping and cc info can be fax'ed to me at 253 535 0066.

Thanks much, hope the booklet lives up to expectations

I'm in for one.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
For those interested, I am putting together a booklet, quite extensive a step by step tutorial for converting 98's.

Thery will be available at DSC show in Januray

Seeya there!

How can I purchase said booklet?

I have used North Fork flat nose solids and GS Customs flat nose solids for years, and my all time favorite do anything bullet is the North Fork cup point, at least in my big bores..

My 375, 9.3x62, 404 and .416 Rem feed them well. I used and excellent gunsmith on all of them.. I have seen some folks actually try to jam their rifles by slamming the hell out of the action, even saw one guy breal his bolt off. I suspect that one could sooner or later and most liky sooner, jam any big bore rifle with such testing?..

In my lifetime of hunting DG with big bores I have never seen a instance wherein I actually slam fed a rifle as some testers do. I have worked the action "smartly" at best in a charge or near charge situation, but smartly is a long ways from slamming the bolt home with such force as described, if for no other reason than it would tend to take your rifle out of play for some seconds, best to keep on target or at least close, as follow up shots can be critical. Closing a bolt "smartly" btw would be what I do after every shot at game, dangerous or otherwise. instantly after the shot, but not particularly fast. The last thing I would reccomend in a charge situation is panic loading.

However if one thinks he needs to subject his gun to such brutal testing then have at it, but can it be done consistantly and work 100% is my question?..Personally I doubt that it can, and don't see the need. If I felt that need, I'd just use a double rifle, and thats not a bad idea anyway in many instances, but hey even a double will fail on ocassion..

This has been a fantastic thread, and I'm grateful to Duane for taking the time out of his busy day to offer such excellent advise with photos and opinnion, and information on a very complecated subject. Some times we sure ask a lot from our gunsmiths.

Hi Duane,

I would like your advice please on any improvements to the feeding of the fat 7mm WSM cases out of a short action Remington 700.

So far I have the following components:

1. The bolt is a PTG, correct for the WSM diameter case head. The extractor is an M16.

2. I have a Wyatts extended magazine.

3. Haven't got the M700 yet. Will be one in .300WSM so the feed rails and follower / spring are correct.


Kind regards,

Michael.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
I am with DUane on this, not to imply I do it as well but, I received some phone instruction from Herman Waldron a few years ago on this very thing. I do pretty much the same as Duane but when it comes to the follwer that is the last thing I do. I usually run three rounds in the magazine and work on the right rail until it is fairly smooth then move to the left rail. When this one is done, Iwork on the last round. If this won't feed, it is the follower that needs some work. I know some would disagree with me but it works for me.

When doing a conversion to a magnum, at least on a Mauser and model 70, the underside of the action, under the feedrails, needs to be "straightened out for the fatter shoulder at about a 8 degree angle with a ball end mill in the mill. Do this before the rail work.

sorry for the necropost, but I am confused by the 8 degree angle. is this the included angle, rail-to-rail, along the bore axis? if so, that seems to be too large of an angle as I understand it. the body taper on a .30-06 is 0.86 degrees, it would take 9 .30-06 cases, base-to-base, shoulder-to-shoulder, flat on the same plane, to make an 8 degree angle.

clearly I am missing something.

quote:

Originally posted by delloro:

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
I am with DUane on this, not to imply I do it as well but, I received some phone instruction from Herman Waldron a few years ago on this very thing. I do pretty much the same as Duane but when it comes to the follwer that is the last thing I do. I usually run three rounds in the magazine and work on the right rail until it is fairly smooth then move to the left rail. When this one is done, Iwork on the last round. If this won't feed, it is the follower that needs some work. I know some would disagree with me but it works for me.

When doing a conversion to a magnum, at least on a Mauser and model 70, the underside of the action, under the feedrails, needs to be "straightened out for the fatter shoulder at about a 8 degree angle with a ball end mill in the mill. Do this before the rail work.

sorry for the necropost, but I am confused by the 8 degree angle. is this the included angle, rail-to-rail, along the bore axis? if so, that seems to be too large of an angle as I understand it. the body taper on a .30-06 is 0.86 degrees, it would take 9 .30-06 cases, base-to-base, shoulder-to-shoulder, flat on the same plane, to make an 8 degree angle.

clearly I am missing something.

I understand the confusion. The 8° or 5° or what ever is correct, is the angle of perpendicularity with the action axis. The underside is machined parallel to the axis of the case with the 8° angle accomplished by tipping the head on the mill.

Still confused?

Are there any booklets (referred above) still available?

Thread necromancy, beh....

Yes, they are

How can I get a booklet, please?

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Yes, they are

One of the best threads ever on feeding solutions.
Read it the first time round from Duane. Worthy of another read and those photographs were masterful, like the smith himself.jc