I'm looking for some advise on a good set of gunsmiths screwdrivers. I don't need the most expensive or biggest, thanks.

I have this:

https://www.midwayusa.com/prod...007363134?pid=439523

Works for me.

quote:

Originally posted by Wes62:
I'm looking for some advise on a good set of gunsmiths screwdrivers. I don't need the most expensive or biggest, thanks.

Start with the Brownells Magna Tip "Thin Bit" set. The standard set, and also the Wheelers, are two thick/coarse for most gun screws. Draw the temper back a bit by heating them to blue and they will resist breaking much better than if used as supplied. I throw them in the lead pot and fish them out after a few minutes.

I have the removable tip set; never use it; pain to find and pick the right bit. I have a set of wood handled screwdrivers ground with hollow ground tips, all in a row on my bench shelf. Grab one and screw.

I agree with Tom.. seem to always misplace one or more of the tips on my removable tip screwdrivers. Got a set of those red wooden handle screwdrivers and they are what I reach for every time.

For a bench/shop, I don't care for the compartmentalized detachable tip screwdriver things.
As said,,too much fussing to use.

A set would be handy and easy to carry in a Range Bag or along on a camping/hunting trip type of thing if that was of need.

My collection is a wild assortment of old school mfg screwdrivers bought at garage sales, fleamarkets, some are freebees, etc. A local ToolStore sells donated stuff and lots of good hand tools can be had there very cheap.

The older mfg excellent quality screwdrivers and other handtools (files, punches, etc) can easily be ID'd.
They may have some paint on the handles and shafts and will need hollow grinding, but the price for the quality is usually a dollar and less.

Sometimes I just make what I need if the blade width is excessive to what normally is available.
Old files , esp narrow parallel files make great S-Dvrs after drawing back the hardness to spring temper on them and belt grinding, filing to shape.

quote:

Wheelers

I like these tools -

I've used this set at my bench for the last three years and it has performed well:

https://www.harborfreight.com/...100-piece-68457.html

I would recommend buying two sets. Seperate the security bits into one case and the gunsmith related bits in the other. This will give you two complete sets of of bits to cover breakage. It also gives you plenty of bits to custom grind thin blades for European shotguns. It also gives you English and Metric hex, Torx, Phillips, spanners, magnetic bit extensions, 1/4 in socket adapter and several more. Covers a ton of what you may run into.


Get this tool roll also. This will give you a durable ratcheting handle and long shank bits. Very useful for recoil pads and scope rings/bases.

https://www.harborfreight.com/...river-set-96733.html

Lastly, this little ratchet handle is useful for tough screws.

https://www.harborfreight.com/...rewdriver-92630.html

So, for under $40 you can have quite the toolkit.

Forstner makes a nice 1-piece hollow ground set too. Mine grip nicely on flats. May buy other types. Small bits have too much movement IMHO.

Over the years, I get requirements for a specific tool I cannot find.

We make it here.

I think most gunsmiths do that as time goes.

A good friend of mine gave me a set of the Brownells Magnatip drivers & bits. Ain't lost a bit yet. i did add on a set of the thin bits, found that a lot of old customer Mausers have very thin slots But on most modern guns the #3 and #4 thickness seems to be most common.

I'm not a pro, just a tinkerer, I've always found the Brownell Magna set to be fine.

Yeah, once in a while, I lose one, but it eventually turns up or I can grind another.

Plus, you can get all sorts of other bits like Torx, squarehead and Allen bits.

Having said that, every professional Gunsmith shop I've been in handgrinds their own from old screwdrivers.

And the reason enough to grind to a custom thickness if needed.

I've noticed the Forster bit can tend to be too thick or too thin for some Mauser screws.
Maybe I should emery wheel some old Craftsman's and give them a good polishing for the in between stuff.
Interesting post.

That is exactly what I do. I have little zip bags with bits ground for specific types of guns I frequently work on. I have a Mauser bag, Belgium A5 bag, and a bag of thin bits for European doubles. I do the same thing for slave pins to assemble old single and side by side shotguns.

quote:

Originally posted by custombolt:
I've noticed the Forster bit can tend to be too thick or too thin for some Mauser screws.
Maybe I should emery wheel some old Craftsman's and give them a good polishing for the in between stuff.
Interesting post.

I use both fixed and insert type drivers. On my workebench, I have a rack of drivers, and a square block that can hold a few hundred insert bits, along with a Snap-on ratcheting screwdriver which I prefer. I have the Brownells magnabit set, it is there but rarely used. In the machine shop, I have a similar bit holding block full of bits.

Seems like you can never have too many screwdrivers.

While working a store that realy moved guns, I had many scope mouting jobs lined up..They were big on Redfield and I found I needed three different drivers just for the ring srews.

Spend the bucks for quality and I suggest long blades.. so you can see what youre doing and the "torsion bar" effect is a plus