Anybody know a cause and solution to this?

My bolt lugs are galling where they meet the action in my 700 Remington long action

Depending on how bad they are galled, I recommend at the least, pulling the barrel to examine and to lap as needed, or, to reface and lap.

I also recommend using a good Moly based Anti Seize on the backs of the lugs.

Absolutely what Westpac said, always lube the cocking cam and lug surfaces when cleaning, it only takes a tiny bit. Think of the pressure at those 2 points, and with no lube on the surfaces.

Not to disagree with anything already said.....however, does anyone think there might be something in error with the Rc (hardness) of either the action or bolt lugs?.....This has never happened to me ever.....and the only time I've run into "gauling" in non firearms applications was when two metals of similar hardness and composition was involved sliding together.

Personally, I'd return it to Remington for testing.

Is it a stainless rifle? I have seen a couple of those completely freeze up due to lugs galling.

I see this every once in a while, mainly with the stainless guns. Dissimilar metals. The harder surfaced Chrome Moly bolt head grinding who knows what into the softer stainless receiver lugs. I usually reface the bolt and receiver's lugs, finishing with a 400 grit lap and top it off with a little well placed Moly paste. Good stuff!

quote:

Originally posted by 458Win:
Is it a stainless rifle?

That was my guess also.

I have read that SS is "stickier" and far more prone to galling. This is why SS revolvers use different types of stainless on their moving parts.

As Wes has already stated, the only part of a Rem bolt, that is stainless, is the handle. The bolt bodies are CM.

quote:

Originally posted by Westpac:
I see this every once in a while, mainly with the stainless guns. Dissimilar metals. The harder surfaced Chrome Moly bolt head grinding who knows what into the softer stainless receiver lugs. I usually reface the bolt and receiver's lugs, finishing with a 400 grit lap and top it off with a little well placed Moly paste. Good stuff!

What is that moly paste called? I routinely put a very small amount of STOS on my bolts, bodies and lugs when I clean them but I'm in a warm climate and don't normally have to worry about grease freezing.

quote:

Originally posted by Gatogordo:
What is that moly paste called? I routinely put a very small amount of STOS on my bolts, bodies and lugs when I clean them but I'm in a warm climate and don't normally have to worry about grease freezing.

This is the stuff. http://www.grainger.com/Graing...ems/5E200?Pid=search BTW if anyone is considering using any Loctite to assemble their barrels to their actions, let it be this stuff.

Thanks guys.

I always use STOS on my lugs as well. It still is gauling?sp.

Vapo may have a point about the hardness of the metal.

quote:

Originally posted by rcamuglia:
Thanks guys.

I always use STOS on my lugs as well. It still is gauling?sp.

Vapo may have a point about the hardness of the metal.

No matter what the hardness, which I would be willing to bet isn't the problem, once it gets started, there is only one way to stop it and that is to remove it.

Partial resizing with difficult bolt closure using reloaded rounds can lead to galling as well.

quote:

Partial resizing with difficult bolt closure using reloaded rounds can lead to galling as well.

Exactly what I thought. You may be trying to force a case that's just a red hair or two too long from head to shoulder into the breech. It don't take much to keep the bolt from closing nicely as it should. You can exert some pretty high torque with the bolt handle. Combine that with the softness of stainless (if it's a stainless gun), and you are in Gall City before you know it. What I would do is get a case gauge or case comparator, as some call it. $35 delivered from Sinclair. Best thing I ever bought for when I had to resize 5,000 .223 cases that were .006 inches too long from shoulder to head. I can set the die, resize and instantly see if the case is correctly sized. If not, screw the die in another 1/10 of a skosh until I get the head flush with the lower cut in the comparator. Easy. Guaranteed to fit...

The problem still exists without any case in the chamber.

My gunsmith put a heavy firing pin spring in and that may be it.

back off 2 grains?

Homebrewer, I like your style. I know nothing about bolt galling (I'm a Pre-64 Mod 70 Guy) but I'm interested in learning more about the case gauge or case comparator you mention. I've gone through the newest Sinclair Catalog this AM and my question is: Are you talking about the two-piece combination (for any one "family" of cartridges with the same shoulder angle) Sinclair calls The Sinclair Bump Gage Insert. (Pg 37 in the catalog). One piece is a short body that clamps on the upper arm of your caliper and the other is a machined insert unique to your carteridge's family tree. Is that what we're talking about or is it something else I missed in the catalog. Appreciate your help.
BTW I gained a new perspective on researching this item: Sinclair desparately needs to hire someone to teach English 101 for a few weeks to his staff.

Don Boyd

Bolt lug galling is a common problem with both chromoly and stainless rifles. Neither the recievers or the bolts are very hard and both are similar in hardness. Remington may have used the chromoly bolt head with the stainless receiver in an attempt to minimize galling but I suppose it is more likely they did so because it was cheaper!
Any good grease is a good preventitive as is cleanliness.
Some of the stainless BR actions are the worst offenders. The Hall actions would gall if you just thought about cycling the bolt, dry and the Bats aren't a lot better. Regards, Bill.