I'll be glass-bedding the .375 (M98) very soon and just wanted to know if the conical barrel recoil lug (ENCIRCLED IN RED BELOW) should be should be fully or partly bedded (just the lug area) since the barrel completely touches the channel all the way till the forend tip, i was thinking of fully bedding the barrel channel too, and hope it works, any help would be greatly appreciated

Zubin

I would fully bed it to the front of the recoil lug on the barrel & float from there to the end.

I know the picture is an exaggeration, but that drift is WAY too much.. should be a couple .001" max.

the 375 doesnt really require a barrel lug, so anything you learn from this doesn't MEAN it will be the same on a 500 class round.

I like to do this in 2 pours. I would do the rear tang and the barrel lug in one pour, using the front ring screw to align everything.. 12 to 24 hours later, pop it out, clean up the rear tang, and then bed the front action

why 2 pours? if you tried to do one, you could mechinically lock the gun in the action, where it would require HUGE effort to get it to break free the first time, and then use of punches to get it in and out.

I usually put another action screw through the barrel lug and forearm

jeffe

Zubin,

If you are to bed the extra barrel recoil lug, I'd suggest you bed the entire channel between the recoil lug and barrel lug including at least a small pad just in front of the barrel lug say couple inches. You could bed the entire barrel channel to the forend tip if you choose, I have one like this and one bedded as I described above, both shoot well.

On a 375H&H, you should be just fine if you disregard the front barrel lug and standard bed the recoil lug and float the barrel. Phil Shoemaker posted on this board that he has done this and had no problems w/ the 375.

Jeffe is absolutely correct in recommending at least two pours. On mine I installed pillars to index the action in the stock then did the multi pours for the bedding. It worked out well.

Good Luck,
Gary