Based upon recommendations in a previous thread I've decided to build a custom 7x57 on a Mexican Mauser. I know very little (nothing actually) about these actions. What should I expect to pay for the action? Anything I should look for specifically? Anything to avoid?

Thanks all.

I've not found them easy to come by. If it isn't pitted below the wood line to beat hell, seriously consider purchase

Avoid pitted actions.

like Duane says, most you come accross are pitted.

I prefer unaltered actions, but depending on what has been done altered can be ok too.

For the most part they operate the same as a large ring 98, only they are a small ring action with small ring threads and unique but for all intents and purposes intermediate length bolt.

I have several.

Sell him one Mike.
Butch

I already sent him a PM

And I have 2 Blackburn bottom metals for them, of which one is for sale.

you should have a 1936 or new action and a knurled cocking piece, looks like a pringfield 1903 ... while the 1910 is FUNCTIONALLY the same, its doesn't have the super cool cocking piece.. and lets face it a 64 vette is cool, but not as cool as a 63 split window.

if you are going to scope it, don't worry much about the crest - if you aren't look for a god one.

on pits.. REALITY is that the ones you'll come across in the 250 range WILL have pits, under the wood certainly ...

it depends on what you are going to do with it.. a $500rebarrel, plastic stock, trigger, and scope mounts or a $5K custom?

The actions are cool, and desirable ... but don't loose your mind in price, unless you are buildint a super custom.

DO NOT TAKE A 1924, even for free. its a large ring, intermediate action. the 1948 is a far superior action. the 24 is a bespoke bastardization of the mauser line .. SKIP IT ..

i've built 458 winmag (limited to 3.15) 376 steyr, 358 win, 308, 708 and 257s on them .. can be tons of fun ...

if you just want a light weight 308 mauser .. get an m48 - you'll need custom bottom metal for it, but its a decent action .. and used to be dirt cheap.

mexican mausers served in mexico.. LOTS of sand .. LOTS of sweat ... lots of heat .. what they didn't see alot of is maintainance.

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
DO NOT TAKE A 1924, even for free. its a large ring, intermediate action. the 1948 is a far superior action. the 24 is a bespoke bastardization of the mauser line .. SKIP IT ..
.

Color me curious, I've always heard that the 1924s were better because the 1948s weren't finished as well. I've never had a 1948 but have had several FN-made 1924s that seemed mighty fine to me. Can you elaborate on any details of the features that make the 1948 better? Thanks & regards, Joe

Hopefully this works, if it does, the top photo is a faded Mexican Crest and typical pitting on the front ring, the second and third photos are for comparison - From top to bottom: '36 Mexican Mauser, 1910 Mexican Mauser, Turkish K.Kale for size comparison. Sorry in advance for the crappy photos. Hope this helps.

Mexican Crest and Pitting
Side 1
Side 2

Prices have gone through the roof over the last couple of years. Been trying to get another 36 to make a matched set, but just too cheap to shell out the money. Used to be $150 for a complete action, now, as Jeffeosso said, $250 for an action with some pitting. Cocking pieces for a 36 go for $50-$100 if you can get one. Whole 36 bolts bring $200 on the auctions.

Occasionally, they come up on GunBroker or AuctionArms but the only deals I have seen have mis-typed something! (Katiesguns beat me to one a few months ago, a 36 for $200 BIN but that was a once a year opportunity)

JD,
I haven't seen an unpitted 24 ... they seemed to have been more unloved, as they kicked harder (3006) and YES, they have a better bottom metal than a stamped (though not milled) 1948.

Mitchell's 48s are FANTASTIC if you get a milled bottom .. and even the $69 sarcos where excellent machining, if you threw away the stamped bottom metal.

There's the theme, right? the 48's stamped bottomed are CRAP .. the milled ones are nice. The 48s were made after the wars, with time, skilled, and quality available.

anyone got a 48 action, preferred milled bottom, they want to get rid of?

quote:

Hopefully this works, if it does, the top photo is a faded Mexican Crest and typical pitting on the front ring, the second and third photos are for comparison - From top to bottom: '36 Mexican Mauser, 1910 Mexican Mauser, Turkish K.Kale for size comparison. Sorry in advance for the crappy photos. Hope this helps.

Mexican Crest and Pitting

Looking at the pic for the Mexican w/pitting photo Mexican Crest with pitting
Is the discoloration on the front ring due to heating maybe to remove a stubborn barrel. Does this heating high enough to cause a coloration change make this action unsafe? Can it be re-tempered?

First time Iv'e seen this.

quote:

Originally posted by RayGunter:
Looking at the pic for the Mexican w/pitting photo Mexican Crest with pitting
Is the discoloration on the front ring due to heating maybe to remove a stubborn barrel. Does this heating high enough to cause a coloration change make this action unsafe? Can it be re-tempered?
First time Iv'e seen this.

The discoloration is common with hard-used rifles having a top handguard ring that slips over the receiver ring; I also believe the pitting comes from this, since moisture collects in the hidden spots under the wood where it can't be removed.

And yes the receiver can be re-hardened if wanted, no problem for any experienced case-hardener. You can even have colors if you want!
Regards, Joe

So lets see if I have this straight. I'm looking for a 1936 Mauser, with as little pitting as possible, although minor pitting will buff out. The crest doesn't seem to be a worry, as I'll have the action drilled and tapped for a scope. Besides the action I need a bolt (naturally), and cocking piece. Anything else? What should I expect to pay?

nyrifleman -

A 1936 or newer action, complete with bolt and correct cocking piece if you can find one could run anywhere from $150 (luck find) to $500 (have seen them go for this).

Assuming that it is TC1's rifle that got you started down this path, then you would be looking for bottom metal, trigger, 3 position safety, etc. and sending all to a 'smith. Best option, if you don't know where one is, is find a gunsmith that already has one that he would sell you as a starting point. Or you can troll the auction sites and gunsamerica, etc. and go up against the rest of us, post wanted adds, or, if you want one quick, look to pick up a complete rifle and part it. There are a couple complete rifles out there now that are under $500, but you run the risk since someone has already worked on them.

Good luck whatever you decide. Just make sure to post pictures!

The biggest problem with buying Military contract Mausers is buying one that has been screwed up by someone drilling & tapping it incorrectly. I've seen many G33/40 and Mex Mausers ruined this way. Just because it's drilled & tapped doesn't always mean it's FUBAR.

quote:

Originally posted by nyrifleman:
So lets see if I have this straight. I'm looking for a 1936 Mauser, with as little pitting as possible, although minor pitting will buff out. The crest doesn't seem to be a worry, as I'll have the action drilled and tapped for a scope. Besides the action I need a bolt (naturally), and cocking piece. Anything else? What should I expect to pay?

A 1910 Mexican or a 1936 Mexican will do. The 1910 would be my 1st choice. A little minor pitting is no big deal if you plan on having it surface ground which is a nice option.

One thing I don't think I've read one this thread that you need to be aware of is pitting on the bolt face. These rifles shot corrosive primered ammo and some of them have pitted bolt faces. These bolts aren't like regular L/R M98 bolts and are VERY hard to find. Make sure the action you buy has a good one or you could be on a long and expensive scavenger hunt.

The way I aquired mine was to find a complete 1910 mexican mauser milatary rifle and part it out. It wasn't too bad. I paid $600 for a pristene rifle and and sold the barrel, stock and bottom metal for for $325. Some collectors say I'll burn in Mauser hell for parting out a collector but I think Paul Mauser would have approved of the results.

Nice surface ground 1910 Mexican M98 with a 1936 cocking piece.




Terry

I'm a little surprised that SOMEONE hasn't made a Mex clone...Hmmmmm...

Isn't Stuarts Ti a SR Mexican M98 clone?



I hope I didn't miss an inside joke

Terry

I wonder if Bailey Bradshaw could make one. One would think that If he can make a double barrel rifle he should be able to make a mauser action.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...0101804/m/3761057511

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
I'm a little surprised that SOMEONE hasn't made a Mex clone...Hmmmmm...

Sounds like a hell of a good idea for Sound Metal Products' next project.

You also find the 36 style cocking piece on the 54 actions. I had one I was going to tear apart for a sporter but a surplus fan talked me out of it. Still have a 1910 and 36 to work with though. - dan

Strange....when I was a chap back in the '60s, everyone was cutting off those obnoxious little protruding knobs(BG) on the rear of the Mexican and 1903 Springfield cocking pieces.

Now folks are actually ADDING them to rifles, because the styles and fashions have changed!

Kinda reminds me of A)rifle checkering pattern border fashions (mullered vs borderless), white line spacers, angled vs perpendicular forend tips, etc etc and B)women's annual clothes fashion changes just so they can be different this year with seemingly no rhyme or reason(VBG).

Don't get me wrong, I certainly don't object to the look of the knobs since the 1903 has long been one of my favorite actions. I just think it's kinda funny how we males have always laughed at females for their apparently mindless yearly 'fashion' changes, and yet we males also appear to be slaves to fashion in many ways!

To my eyes, about 90% of the newly-made customs I see here are practically interchangeable in their appearance since they all appear to have been made to an identical pattern. Not necessarily dimensionally identical but rather very similar in their styling details such as sling swivel 'islands' and sharp-vs-rounded edge-transition-shape treatments. Since most makers copy someone else's style to one degree or another with seemingly no real thought or regard for practicality and ergonomics, it seems to me that we have evolved a certain sense of Political Correctness and 'the rules say...'

Or maybe it's the customers who have the PC fashion-following mind-set. Either way, I think it's kinda funny how things change and some folks just follow along like lemmings.
Regards, Joe

I,m into my 308 1941 Mex for $850 completed. Not back from the smith yet but he does good work. No guild gun but fine for a hunting rifle here in AK for my sons. Wanted to satisfy my curiosity abut the Mex Mauser. Found barreled action at gunshow for $160 in great condition.