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M17 scope mounts
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I'm building a 416 Taylor on an M17 action and I want to fit some sort of QD mount on the action and a quarter rib with dovetails for a " scout " set-up or red dot.
My questions are....what's the best shape to grind the rear bridge to and which bases to use for QD's and any suggestions ( or pics ) for the quarter rib?
I would also like to be able to have some sort of peep sight at the rear...either fixed or detachable.
The " ears " have already been cut off, but other than that, the action is basically unmolested.

Roger
 
Posts: 1048 | Location: Was NSW, now Tas Australia | Registered: 27 June 2009Reply With Quote
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if it were mine (bear in mind i invented the 416 accrel) it would be a 416 ruger .. while mine is ever so slightly better, its not worth the effort for the convenience of the factory ammo and dies

416s dont kick all that much, and having a standard scope mount is fine


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

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Posts: 40036 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Threw me for a minute since there is no M17 rifle. The M Series Ordnance Nomenclature had not been developed yet so we used the year. I use older Savage one piece bases that are flat on the rear; so no radius needed. Other times I use various bases; the trick is to machine the rear bridge so the bases are flat and on the same plane.
And weld a plug into the duck pond.
 
Posts: 17374 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Sorry Tom, I'm basically lazy so P14 and M17 is easier than typing pattern 14 or model 1917...its an Eddystone, crack tested and no duck pond.

Roger
 
Posts: 1048 | Location: Was NSW, now Tas Australia | Registered: 27 June 2009Reply With Quote
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JGS the reamer people used to make (and may still make) a grinding fixture or the P14/P17 rifles that resulted in a radiused rear bridge when used, the bridge was similar to some factory rifles o the day Rem700 or Win70 if memory serves. I personally do not like the look of the flat rear bridge but much prefer the look of the radiused bridge just like BSA used to do on the factory P17/14 conversions.
 
Posts: 406 | Location: CANADA | Registered: 06 April 2004Reply With Quote
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Sometimes you deal with what you have. This is a 1903A3 base with a shop-made block for the rear.

Bill Jacobs

1917 ScopeMount by jakefromclemson, on Flickr


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Posts: 339 | Location: Greenwood, SC | Registered: 06 February 2004Reply With Quote
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My question was not so much about the how but the what...what would be the best scope base to use for removeable mounts and the best rings to suit. I would prefer two piece bases and lever mounts as long as they are suitable for the 416.
As to the how, a flat base would appear to be the go as the rear bridge is already flat...if its not broke, don't fix it !!

Roger
 
Posts: 1048 | Location: Was NSW, now Tas Australia | Registered: 27 June 2009Reply With Quote
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I used an old set of beautiful Lyn Brownell lever QDs on my Rem md 30 and Talley's on my 17, I always have the action surface ground to clean it up on any custom rifle..


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42210 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by yumastepside:
My question was not so much about the how but the what...what would be the best scope base to use for removeable mounts and the best rings to suit. I would prefer two piece bases and lever mounts as long as they are suitable for the 416.
As to the how, a flat base would appear to be the go as the rear bridge is already flat...if its not broke, don't fix it !!

Roger


In my opinion you will not find any mounts off the shelf that will work with your rifle except maybe or the front reciever ring, the rear on those rifles have been ground without any consideration to dimensions, the flats are all over the place dimensionally and you will have to have the rear base custom made for height and hole spacing, not a big job for most gunsmiths.
Good luck.
BB
 
Posts: 406 | Location: CANADA | Registered: 06 April 2004Reply With Quote
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Yes, I think you're right, I might be better off attaching an over height quarter rib along with front and rear scope blocks, mill the whole lot in one go then dovetail the lot!.....something to think about.

Roger
 
Posts: 1048 | Location: Was NSW, now Tas Australia | Registered: 27 June 2009Reply With Quote
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It's very easy and doesn't matter how the bridge was treated; I make a short spacer to make the one piece base fit to the bridge, only that section is flat, and radius the rest. That is where the old Savage 110 flat rear base comes into play. Sometimes I weld on the 3/8ths inch long spacer and make a little square bridge out of it.
 
Posts: 17374 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Piece of cake!


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42210 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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