I've been using Dulite Quickseal for my after bluing oil bath. I'm wanting to try something different that I can get locally to avoid the shipping/hazmat charges. What will work? I can get WD40 in the gallon cans. Has anyone tried
that?

ATF cut with diesel. 30% diesel the rest ATF fluid. Works very well.

Thanks Bill.

quote:

ATF cut with diesel. 30% diesel the rest ATF fluid. Works very well.

Bill is spot on with that recipe. It works like a charm.

Mark

I have used WD40 as a displacing oil for the same reason, Cost. I mixed one gallon with one quart of ATF. Worked great for me.

James

Brownells suggests that you do not use WD40
it is made from FISH OIL
jeffe

I have been using WD for some time and is getting up there in price. Great idea Bill.

Mike

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
Brownells suggests that you do not use WD40
it is made from FISH OIL
jeffe

Cool! That's a new one to add to the fables surrounding WD40.

Brent

Here's what brownells says on WD40

quote:

Especially avoid WD-40 on ‘virgin’ bluing. After the bluing has ‘cured’
for a few days, it is then perfectly safe and advisable to use the modern
wonder oils, if you wish.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/General/DisplayPDF.aspx?f=Inst-113.pdf

And the guys that use it on their fishing baits is fairly well known...

i have heard it's alot meheyden (sp) oil


I use ATF 50%, Kerosene 20%(sp) and hydraulic oil 30% ....

a buddy uses straight 90 weight... and another straight ATF

I checked the MSDS for WD40 and there is no mention of anything like fish oil. it is a plain old mineral oil product.

http://www.wd40.com/Brands/pdfs/msds-wd40_bulk.us.pdf

Hello Mark

I thought you were indisposed since I havent heard much from you.

My favorite is plain ATF, seems to work very well, much better than Brownells water displacement oil which leaves varish like brown specs all over everything.

I think in a lot of cases the gun parts continue to darken to some degree while left to hang overnight and that the use of anything with a strong rust preventive such as WD-40 will definately inhibit such chemical action.

Is an oil bath only required after hot chemical bluing or is it also a good idea to use oil after slow rust bluing?

I do not use an oil bath after rust bluing. While the barrel is still hot from the last boil, I wax it with a good floor wax, but wiping down with a decent gun oil is really all that's needed. Boiling stops any corrosive action so dunking in oil etc is unnecessary.

Brent

Hi Freddy! Yeah, I've been indisposed. Chained to my bench by hunters that don't plan ahead. Lots of last minute Remington auto rifles that don't work. The ones I really like bring me a gun to blue (and stock refinish?) in early October. Then call 3 weeks later to ask "I am going to have that by opening day, right? It's my only gun.". By then it's torn down, in the white, waiting for the rest of the batch to get ready. I'm thinking "that would have been good information to have before I started!".

Oh well, such is life. I'm thinking about shutting the door in October next year and not opening back up until January or February. It might keep me from being more of a curmudgeon than I already am.

Several years ago one of the techs at Brownells told my neighbor who used to blue quite a bit at that time that the best alternative to the oil they sold was light hydraulic oil. He took the advice and has used it exclusively since with no problems.

I've used WD40 on fresh bluing right out of the rinse tank for years with Brownells salts with no problems ever.

It would probably be safe to say I've got more blueing in hot tanks under my belt than probably anyone else on this forum, due to the nature of the parts and how many we manufacture.

Everything that has been mentioned so far, will work, but I threw all that stuff out the window nearly 15 years ago when we started using Rem Oil. You can buy it at any sporting good store and it works like a charm.

Parts that we blue sometimes are inventoried for months before they leave. I've yet to ever have any rust problems whatsoever.

In fact, parts that we shipped USRAC back in the first quarter of 2006 are still sitting on shelves, but they're in South Carolina now, waiting to go on the new model 70's. Still wrapped up in plastic and cardboard and while I was there, we took a few out and they still look just as good as the day we shipped them out.

The stuff isn't very expensive and there's no need to soak steel in any kind of lubricant. A simple and ample spray will take care of the problem. It's not going to soak in, so you're kinda just amuzing yourself by soaking it. Sometimes it becomes easier to do it that way if you don't have the oil in an aerosol, but Rem Oil takes care of that problem too.

Keep in mind that these are simply my reccomendations for hot blue and not rust blue, which I neither have the time or inclination to do.

There's always been a lot of smoke and mirrors around hot blueing and how long to leave the parts in for.....what temps and for how long in each temp....what water-displacing oil to use, etc., but it's pretty damn simple.

I can teach someone to blue like a pro in a afternoon with a willing student. With the exception of only a couple of my employees, they've all been taught by me to blue parts. Easy stuff when you know what the rules really are.