The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Stripping the Deathpoxy finish on BrowningsGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| Stripping the Deathpoxy finish on Brownings | Login/Join |
| one of us |
What do ya'll use for stripping the (I suppose) epoxy catalyzed super-poxy poly finish off of modern Browning rifles, shotguns? I am backing up using the strippers I have on hand, including 'Extra Strength' easy off oven cleaner. I did try a search and whiffed, seems to happen to me a lot lately on AR when doing a search.....I even did a search for a post I made, with the exact title, and couldn't find it! | ||
|
| One of Us |
Usually epoxys can be "dissolved" off with acetone but even then it takes a good prolonged soaking in a sealed container of some sort. It's about the only thing I've found that will work - give it a try, soak a rag in acetone, wrap it around some part of the stock, put in a freezer bag for an hour or so and see if the finish is removed / softened. --- John303. | |||
|
Moderator |
sandblasting with gravel? I tried citristrip.. for 10 hours!! it didn't work for me, barely glazed it over.. opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
|
| One of Us |
I have used Klean-Strip KS-3 from Home depot on several Brownings (A-5's and 22 autos)and it has always worked. I have found that some of these epoxy finishes on some Brownings come off easier than others as if they came from a different epoxy batches. | |||
|
One of Us |
I mechanically scrape it off. The backside of an old hacksaw blade stoned square and sharp works wonderfully. I can completly strip a stock in about 5 minutes. Rusty's Action Works Montross VA. Action work for Cowboy Shooters & Manufacturer of Stylized Rigby rifle sights. http://i61.photobucket.com/alb.../th_isofrontleft.jpg | |||
|
One of Us |
Yep, I soften it up with any sort of paint stripper and then strip it by scraping it with a box cutter blade. Easy as pie regards S&F | |||
|
One of Us |
Okay Rusty Marlin... Please video your scraping technique and post it on you tube or sumptin...this I gotta see... Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
|
| One of Us |
I don't have one to do right now. But try it yourself. Its a peice of cake. clamp an old hacksaw blade in a vice with the back just proud of the jaws. Run a India bench stone over it till a good burr is raised on the sides. Hold the blade just off 90 degrees to the stock and draw it toward you. The epoxy finish peels off like peeling a potatoe. Rusty's Action Works Montross VA. Action work for Cowboy Shooters & Manufacturer of Stylized Rigby rifle sights. http://i61.photobucket.com/alb.../th_isofrontleft.jpg | |||
|
| One of Us |
Use Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy remover. Scraping finishes and surfaces is a bit of an art. I would not just jump into a good stock the first time. You can guy shaped metal scrapers from Woodcraft. You can form the edge like rusty said but it is good to have a burnisher on hand to finish the edge. Proceed cautiously when starting. James Krenove, a noted cabinet maker, finished the surface of his woodwork with scrapers, where it was possible. | |||
|
| One of Us |
A simple and fairly quick way to remove stubborn epoxy finishes . Out side !! with a simple plumbing or small butane propane torch simply have wet rags on hand either burn the finish NOT THE STOCK off . If you prefer a safer method in case you've never used torches to remove finishes . Then Use A fairly Course grade of sand paper 80 grit WATCH THE CHECKERING ! Now that you have abraded the surface , simply apply Aircraft Epoxy stripper allow to set,in Shaded area NO DIRECT SUN for a recommended time . Wash with a soft throw away brush and Lacquer Acetone mixture or MEK or if you have access too T17 Hot Thinner it works VERY WELL . There is also a product used in the marine industry which works well yet is SAFE but Slower acting . It's called "Peel Away " looks like drywall taping mud , comes with a special type of paper . Simply wash the stock off you can sand the surface a little and it will work faster . Now use a soft paint brush paint it on thick follow instructions ,cover with the paper leave it set 6 Hr. too overnight in your shop or garage . Remove sticky gooey gummy mess by lifting the paper and with a body putty spreader ( plastic type for fairing work ) slide it off into the trash . Wash with thinner ( Water can be used but with Stocks I use thinners ) . Stripped Stock !. BOL ... | |||
|
| One of Us |
A simple furniture scraper works best and you don't have to fool around with chemicals. | |||
|
one of us |
I'm with Customstox on the scrapers; if haven't practiced the technique you can end up with a gouge in exactly the wrong place. The first few guns I scraped were old military stocks that didn't much matter. "Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson. | |||
|
| One of Us |
Use any heavy duty Methylene Chloride based stripper. Wear rubber gloves, it will chemically burn your skin. 1. Goop the stock, let it sit for 10 minutes, and carefully scrape the goop. Rinse the remainder of the goop off with water. Don't let residual goop and melted finish dry on the stock, that stuff is worse than the finish. 2. Repeat until every molecule of that crap is gone, out of every pore, etc. It will show through your refinish as shiny spots or worse. Use a toothbrush on the checkering, the MeCl doesn't eat toothbrushes. It takes me 4 to 5 go-rounds to get it off. A truly crappy job, and the refinishing is all fun once it's done | |||
|
one of us |
Like Chic said, use JASCO. You can find it at Home Depot. Be very careful with it as it will burn you if you're not. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
|
| one of us |
I used Jasco a few years back to refinish a Grade 3 Citori. It took the finish off just fine. However it also dissolved whatever the stockmaker had used to attach chunks of wood in the checkering, presumably to repair torn out diamonds. Talk about a refinish job "going south"!  | |||
|
| One of Us |
This is from Brownell's website. I have no personal experience with this product as it is one of those items listed as hazardous by the USPS, therefore Brownell's will not ship outside continental US. CERTISTRIP Heavy Duty - So Tough It Even Strips Remington and Browning Epoxy Finishes The most potent stripper we've found. Fast, easy-to-use. Water cleanup. Works like honest-to-goodness magic in removing those incredibly tough epoxy finishes. Minimal grain raising; requires only light sanding before refinishing. Wear rubber gloves. Use adequate ventilation. Apply with a natural bristle brush. SPECS: 1 qt. (.946L) and 1 gal. (3.78L) containers. Catalog page 365 | |||
|
| One of Us |
Here is a reply that I copied from a post that I asked about on a weatherby stock that I had to remove the epoxy. I went to Home depot and tried to find the JASCO Epoxy remover that Toomany Tools suggested. They only had a product from Klein. I bought that and the finish came right off. It was very easy, only took about 15 minutes. The only problem I found is that I didn't realize the white inserts that offset the fore end and the small knob on the bottom are plastic. The stripper ate the surface off a bit. After a bit of light sanding they seem to be okay. | |||
|
| One of Us |
Each too there own demise I always say . To do the least amount of damage to any Fine wood project , with a TRUE Epoxy finish . I'm here to reassure each and everyone of you from the Experts mouths who do it for a living . When Time = $$$ , Professional Wood working re - finishers use strip tanks . Whenever possible yet not all epoxies will strip !. As I'll assume most of you don't own chemical stripping tanks chemical ( Correct Chemicals ) will do the least amount of damage too the wood . If properly rinsed with an appropriate solvent using an old toothbrush and soft bristle brush . It's near Idiot proof and quick . I have several Epoxy urethane combination finishes which will NOT LIFT with Methylene Chloride submersion !. 97% of Gun Stock finishes you will ever encounter can be removed using chemical stripper . A quality Aircraft stripper will remove any of the 97% finishes . It's the other 3% which are a B !. Once a stocks surface have been wiped down with a solvent like Lacquer or Acetone then lightly abraded simply scratched , then stripping just got 25-40% more effective as well as quicker and more complete . | |||
|
One of Us |
The finish that browning uses is called Texacron....call the Browning Service headquarters in Arnold Missouri for stripper advise....but when I re-finnished my Medalion I sanded the crap off. ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
|
| one of us |
Well, I'm gonna hunt for some of the JASCO or Klein stuff, I had been sanding ad-nauseum, but I ain't skilled enough to checker, so I'm dodging the checkered areas, and don't want to try scrapers just yet, think I'd be a little out of my depth there. I used several coats of Easy Off oven cleaner (Heavy Duty) on the advise of a stock maker from our shooting range, it worked great in the checkered areas, and they are now finish free and still very clean and crisp. I just need to get the stuff off of the broader flatter areas of the butt and forearm. I did a A-5 years ago, and the Citri-strip did fine on it, but this stuff they put on the last 5 or 6 (or more) years is brutal. I was told by browning it is either Catalyzed Lacquer or Epoxy finish. Sheeeeez! I did several different rifles with a hand rubbed oil finishes, and the guys around the club and shooting range just love it, hate that "super shiny" finsh they all say, and I must admit that on several of the stocks, the MFG must have used a solid body stain or something, because some previously unseen grain and character came out that looks really good, even if with my admittedly very raw ability. I'll think hard about doing another one with this crap on there if this JASCO doesn't work better/faster. Thanks for all the input gents! | |||
|
one of us |
I just slather mine in the Citri-strip or whatever it is called, and I mean really slather. Then, wrap it all in aluminum foil and put on the shelf for 24 hrs. Comes right off with a putty knife. Be careful with chemicals such as MEK, they are not life-form friendly. JMO, Dutch. Life's too short to hunt with an ugly dog. | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Stripping the Deathpoxy finish on Brownings
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia