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I have a BSA 12 action I would like to convert to center fire without modifying the original breechblock. I am a machinist with access to CNC and EDM machines and this will be a "training project" as I get time at work. I have already reverse-engineered the profile of the block to what I believe will be within .001" or .002" all around. This will become a toolpath for the EDM after the hinge pin and firing pin holes have been drilled. Obviously the firing pin angle will be different. My measurements indicate the rimfire pin is angled 2.1 degrees upward using the flat on the bottom of the block for a reference. I intend to try eliminating this angle for centerfire cartridges. I will also make a new firing pin "retaining sleeve" threaded 7/16-20 instead of the apparently non-standard sized original. My questions are: - What rockwell hardness should the block be for .357 mag? I have access to some very modern maraging steels that are in the Rc 40 range in their normalized state. I also have access to 4130, but it moves when heat treated which might make the final fitting difficult. I'd prefer not to heat treat at all if its not necessary. - I also intend to make a new firing pin that is 5/64" (.078") dia. How much protrusion should it have? - Will leaving the firing pin assembly parallel to the flat on the bottom of the block work for centerfire? - I'm currently trying to make the new block's profile identical to the old one, but should I expect to modify the "legs" on the rear of the block so it can open further for the .357 round? I know these are some pretty specific questions, but I'm sure some of you can answer some of them. The good thing about making a whole new block is that I won't ruin the gun if I screw up and I can keep trying til I get it right. Thanks for your time - John | ||
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I don't know which material you are referring to, but a hardness of RC 40 is fine. Firing pin protrusion should be about .060. Unless the firing pin retracts under spring tension, you might rethink the angle change. The beautiful thing with programable machinery is being able to quickly remake or alter the design of the the piece if something goes wrong. Good luck! _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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A couple of things; If you are going to shoot high pressure loads I would reduce the diameter of the firing pin and taper it like the Rem 742. Study this pin nose and consider the dimensions. The pin is about .058 on the point if I remember correctly. This solved the pressure problems on converted military actions. The first down stroke of the lever must retract the firing pin point into the block before the block starts to drop. My gauge for the firing pin is .057 protrusion. I made the taper reamer for the firing pin hole. I believe that the 4140 to Rc 40 would be better for pressure. You can buy breech blocks from John Appleton at a reasonable price. He imports a lot of Martini rifles and parts. I will find an address if needed. | |||
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Well, I made pretty good progress the first month after posting this, then got sidetracked by real work. Here are some pictures... I haven't done any milling on the outside of the block yet and need to make a final decision on the caliber before cutting the top "trough." I'm still considering 25-35 Win AI. I think I'll skip the cuts on the side since it seems to work well without them. I changed some geometry of the firing pin and retaining nut to ease manufacture and the pin nose is still way too long. The "shoulder" of the pin up to the "flange" is now basically the same as an extended no. 2 ctr drill (60 deg.). It took a lot of setups to get to this point and I'm happy with it so far. Hopefully it won't be too long until I can work on it more, but I also have to finish rebuilding my lathe first. Thanks everyone for all the advice - John | |||
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My martini is a 7-30 Waters built on a Model 12 action with bushed firing pin hole. The original loading trough works just fine. Dave One morning I shot an elephant in my pajamas. How he got into my pajamas I'll never know. - Groucho Marx | |||
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Loud-n-boomer, How do you like the 7-30 Waters and how has it performed for you? Its tough for me to decide on a cartridge since its such a cool and handy little gun, I want one in every caliber. Maybe I'll Turn it into a swich-barrel. Thanks for the info on the loading trough. I guess the original design works well for everything. - John | |||
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John: I have not had a chance to really play with the Waters yet, but it is Bob Snapp's favorite round for the Martini cadet actions. Bob's only caution with any of the .30-30 based rounds is to stay with published loads for the standard Model 94, as the barrel shank is a bit thin when you put these into a small martini. Dave One morning I shot an elephant in my pajamas. How he got into my pajamas I'll never know. - Groucho Marx | |||
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Be careful with the Martinis, John, they are more addictive than the kind with alcohol. I have about a dozen, in various stages from all original sporters to untouched donor actions. Like many people here, I have more rifles than I could ever use, but I'm always on the look-out for more Martinis. They have caused me to equip an entire machine shop, begin casting bullets, buy hundreds and hundreds of dollars worth of books about single-shot rifles, and just generally spend too much time and money on them - all in ADDITION to my existing gun habit. Thank goodness Ross Seyfried wrote that article in "Rifle" few years back - otherwise I might have just wasted the money by saving it for my son'e education or something! By wire EDM'ing parts for a 100 yr-old rifle, you've proven that you have similar "issues"...I wired-out extractors, never tried a breechblock. But I've thought about it! | |||
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Years ago we had barreled up an 310 action for a customer in 25-35 Ackley Imp. We had to do a lot of grinding in the breech block groove to get the shell rim to clear. That case is just long enough and straight sided that it would not go in unless the groove was altered. But the 25-35 Win and 7x30 work just fine. Good job on the new block. I have a #12 that I changed the arms on the lever to drop the block to CF, and am building it up in a 357 for a knock around rifle. Now just have to figue out how to put in a lever type safety lever in the side of action. Jim Wisner Custom Metalsmith | |||
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Very cool.. if it were me, i would go 32-20 or 45LC .. but the 320-20 would have a .308 barrel jeffe opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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Jim: Give Duane Wiebe a call, I have it on ggod authority that he has done this before. Duane will no doubts curse my soul for letting people know that he can build up a great looking cadet. Dave One morning I shot an elephant in my pajamas. How he got into my pajamas I'll never know. - Groucho Marx | |||
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Thank you all for the replies. Now that 25-35 AI is ruled out, it will either be .357 mag, .22 Super Jet, 25-35 Win or 7-30 Waters. I'd like to make it a switch barrel, but if I want to put a scope on it without placing it way forward, I'd have to use interrupted threads on the barrel shank. Can this be done safely in the calibers mentioned and produce an accurate rifle? Yeah Dzn, I've got it bad. In fact, guns are why I eventually became a machinist. I caught the bug from the old "do it yourself" articles in the American Rifleman when I was a kid. That reminds me, I've still got one of those projects I need to fix. - John | |||
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Hello Beelz Nice work so far - would you be interested in making up some blocks for others ?? I for one would be a buyer and I'm sure you would find quite a few others here "down under" I think you would get nothing but disapointment with a centrefire switch barrel in the little Martini. I was considering it myself until one day when I visited on Australian stock maker Geoff Slee. Geof has some exquisite single shot rifles including some small Martinis he had made up for his boys. Both were takedowns and he said that they had started to loosen up very quickly even in 22 Hornet. It seems that the shank is just not suitable for takedown (I think its probably a combination of the very small shank, short as well as small diameter, and relatively soft steel) Cheers - Foster | |||
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Vascomax C350 from round bar stock is overkill in it's annealed state and can be heat treated inexpensively to it's full potential of 350,000 PSI. This is the process I would use when a part needs to be "indestructable". Not cheap stuff but definitely the best. | |||
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Tentman, Sorry but its not possible or practical for me to make these for others. Thanks for the advice about the barrel shank, thats what I suspected and you saved me from having to find out the hard way. Macifej, You're right, that's some tough material you're talking about. I wound up using some scrap 4340 Annealed from another part. It may be a little soft. I'll try to remember to test a piece tomorrow. If it is too soft, hopefully it won't move or shrink much when hardened. You seem to know a lot more than I do about metal, what can you tell me about it? Thank you both for the replies - John | |||
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.22 Savage Hi-Power | |||
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About? Scrap 4340 and what to do with it? Scrap it in the scrap bin. 4340 - if you're absolutely sure that's what you are looking at - is like saying I have a bottle of cola in my hand. There are about a bazillion varieties of the stuff in about 100 bazillion flavors. 4340 in most any incarnation is dirt cheap! Figure out what you need and get a piece of the correct stuff with a certification from the mill AND supplier. If you are asking about C350 that's another ball game. There may be some off shore produced and even certified MIL-S C350 but the only real manufacturer of the stuff is Allegheney Technologies (ATI) Allvac. The specific product name is Vascomax C350. If you read all the white papers, you'll notice that it is extremely tough stuff. It's strong and heat resistant and corrosion resistant and it doesn't move during heat treatment and the heat treatment process is very simple. The problem is getting it in the size or shape you want and at a reasonable price. (Figure about $75.00 per pound for small pieces). Another interesting property is that you can just polish it up like your grandpa's 53 Buick bumper and forget about it - doesn't need a finish. Vascomax C350 I think I have a short piece of it around here if you want it send a PM. | |||
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gotta agree with dzn - they are addictive, very addictive | |||
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333-OKH, I've never heard of the .22 Savage High Power, but I'll look into it. Macifej, You sound like a Vascomax salesman. There's no need to convince me, I've worked with it quite a bit. Its everything you say it is, but produces very long, sharp, stringy chips on a lathe unless you take cuts deep enough to require flood coolant and a very hefty machine. In fact, I cut my finger on some today. Like I said above, this was a training project for me to work on during otherwise "down time," so I used what was readily available and cheap at the time. I tested the block today and it was only 7 on the Rockwell C scale. Not good enough. I've got my programs, but don't know when I would have the time to run them all over again. What's the best way to harden the 4340 annealed to a point that it can handle .22 Super Jet (read .223 Rem) pressures without warping or shrinking too much? If I do another breechblock some day, I'm considering 17-7 stainless, mainly because its cheaper, but also very good. Thanks - John | |||
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It was developed for the 1899 Savage levergun, otherwise known as the Savage 99. The caliber was very popular in Europe and still is as the 5.6x52R. Bell of the African fame loved the caliber for neck shooting red deer in the British Islands. Basically a 30-30 necked down with a gradual neck to .228 caliber and a 71 grain slug at somewhere between 2700- and 2800 fps. Chuck Hawks says:
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John, I would probably get a stick of HR HT 4340 with a cert and mill it to finished shape and forget about it. It's 28-32 which should be stout enough for what you're doing. Of course if you're already running some C350 parts I'd do the block and everything else I could set up in C350 and forget the heat treating. If you're running it maybe I should be buying rems from you! | |||
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Thanks again for the replies. .333 OKH, Thanks for gathering all that data, but it looks like the .22 Super Jet is shorter, a little faster and easier to get bullets and make brass for. The .22 Savage High Power does look better than the 25-35 Win. though. Macifej, I'll finish the one I've started and see if I can heat treat it to the proper hardness. If I make another one, Vascomax or 17-7 will be my choice (in that order). I seem to have the habit of starting a project casually, then turning it into something nice, only to discover it flawed because I started out with inferior material. Well, I think its time I ended this thread. I plan to start another one with an update in the future, but it will likely be a while. Thanks again for the help - John | |||
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Anytime! Good Luck and keep us posted! | |||
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