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I have acquired a couple pretty old chamber reamers that have seen their better days. Any nifty tricks or pointers for stoning an edge back into them? I already know that it is NOT done on the outer surface. Not real sure how to get a stone down into the little groove though. Have any of you made a tool of your own for this purpose?? Open to suggestions. | ||
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Very thin stones are readily available. Try MSC I know they have them | |||
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Norton FF-444 Fine India Stone depending on the size of the reamer, FF-72 is a good choice too. Nathaniel Myers Myers Arms LLC nathaniel@myersarms.com www.myersarms.com Follow us on Instagram and YouTube I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools. | |||
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Thanks guys. I ordered a fine knife edge stone. Will give that a try. | |||
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Most reamer manufacturers will sharpen reamers..... . | |||
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If you have some time on your hands to build a nice jig. I recently bought one of these out of print books on fleabay. THE MACHINIST'S THIRD BEDSIDE READER | |||
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NO; you will ruin them. Send them to a reamer maker if they are worn; if you even touch the outside, it is toast. Stones may be used for light touching up, by stoning the face of the cutting edge only; never the outside. That will change the dimensions. A real sharpening job entails grinding the entire reamer, back, creating a new tool. | |||
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NOT if you do it right the first time. PTG sells and (I think) uses this fixture that was built for GRETAN similar to the Machinist bedside Reader 3 jig. Gretan used to sell them with a video on how to use. I haven't seen the video, but I'm gonna build the fixture. Usually when you pull a reamer out of the chamber there are flutes that are full and some that are not. The stoning jig uses a .0001" indicator to find the high spots and stone them even with all the rest. Not for the faint of heart or those that can't walk and chew gum. https://pacifictoolandgauge.co...mer-stoning-jig.html | |||
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Which is why I do not recommend it for people whose skill and dexterity I do not know. First 4 answers were talking about a "stone". | |||
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If ONLY a touch up, and great care. the thin sones might be the answer since a pro sharpening by JGS is about $200.00 Personally, if actually dull or nicked I'd either get a new reamer or opt for the pro service...or rent one | |||
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"If your going to chamber more than ten rifles in your lifetime, you need this jig!" I am at about 3500 times that amount of chambers. Probably won't invest in one at this point. I hope to not reach 40,000 before I retire. I've done some light stoning on a reamer a few times over the years. Generally only if it is some oddball reamer that I do not expect to ever use again. I do keep a ground carbide insert handy which can be drug along the flute of the reamer to knock off any chip that gets welded to the face of the cutting edge. Used right, a good carbide reamer will last a long time. If you are damaging the reamer in use, then you are doing something wrong. Most damage is probably done by tossing them naked in a drawer in the tool box with a bunch of other reamer, or another one of my favorites that I have seen is piling them up along the bed of the lathe. Best, John | |||
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What are you guys fussing about?? Quit going the long way around the barn. EVERYONE knows if you run em' backwards the sharpen right up. Geez... | |||
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I have, for many years, been setting reamers up on centers. I then use a dial gauge and a support finger to index and hold the reamer in position while I, with a ceramic stone and a magnifier, hone each edge. This became necessary more often when I bought a lot of reamers from PTG. Regards, Bill | |||
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I REALLY hope you're kidding! It's a darn good way to destroy a reamer! | |||
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Yeah, everyone knows you have to put some valve lapping compound in the chamber before you run it backwards if you expect it to sharpen the reamer. John | |||
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Thats interesting. What I have is an old H&M tool 6.5/257 set with both reamers, (rough and finish). Ive never used them myself. They may be fine just the way they are but to the touch they dont feel as sharp as my other reamers. Id like to have a peak into Gunmaker's book at this. (from table of contents in the link) "The Ne Plus Ultra on Hand Stoning Chambering Reamers - 10 full pages giving everything you could ever want to know on this topic, including the jig shown in the photo below, and MUCH more!" I'm tempted to get the book for myself. It looks excellent. | |||
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There are, I believe, some pretty good instructions in Howe's "The Modern Gunsmith" (modern being kind of a figure of speech). Another source is "Advanced Gunsmithing" by Wayne Vickery. Regards, Bill. | |||
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I'll have to buy that Vickery book. Looks like it's easy to find. Flipped through 900 pgs of Howe and found the section on reamers. Forgot the mountain of info in that 2 volume set.
Have to agree there. However there are some willing to learn to do it right the first time. I'm not qualified....... Yet......If I live long enough, I'll know it all.  | |||
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I got my copy of Vickery's book from my dad. Vickery was a customer of my grandfather, who owned an automotive shop in Boise, Idaho. Wayne re-barreled and altered a '93 Mauser for Dad. The total cost, including the new barrel, a Lyman receiver sight and front sight, and altering the bolt handle, came to 25.00. Regards, Bill | |||
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Vickery has some great information still pertinent today. He and Howe should be on every gunsmith and gunmakers shelf. Though if I remember correctly I showed Vickery's bluing formula to my neighbor and asked if he could procure the necessary items. As a chemist I was hoping he could. Half the stuff he seemed to have no idea what it was and the other half he was muttering something about federal prison. Nathaniel Myers Myers Arms LLC nathaniel@myersarms.com www.myersarms.com Follow us on Instagram and YouTube I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools. | |||
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I know a book exists identifying the "old" descriptions of some of those ingredients to a modern equivalent.....However, in my experience, some are just history Way back I made my own rust blue and it worked great....except.... for a favorite that had a habit of exploding the bottle !! | |||
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A Williams 5D for the peep sight? TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
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Obsolete ingredients. Angiers book has a lot of that. I gave up trying to figure out what some of them are/were. Sperm oil is another one Ive seen in some other older books that you wont find on the shelves anymore. Theres a lot of hands on knowledge in some of those old books though. | |||
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I have one of those older books "The Gunsmith's Manual" by Stelle & Harrison published 1883.Has all kinds of information and formulas pertaining to the trade. Never rode a bull, but have shot some. NRA life member NRA LEO firearms instructor (retired) NRA Golden Eagles member | |||
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No. It was a Lyman. Keep in mind, this was in 1946. Pricing was different then. Regards, Bill. | |||
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