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DIY reamer sharpening ?
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I have acquired a couple pretty old chamber reamers that have seen their better days. Any nifty tricks or pointers for stoning an edge back into them? I already know that it is NOT done on the outer surface. Not real sure how to get a stone down into the little groove though.

Have any of you made a tool of your own for this purpose?? Open to suggestions.



AK-47
The only Communist Idea that Liberals don't like.
 
Posts: 10189 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Very thin stones are readily available. Try MSC I know they have them
 
Posts: 3667 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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Norton FF-444 Fine India Stone

depending on the size of the reamer, FF-72 is a good choice too.


Nathaniel Myers
Myers Arms LLC
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I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools.
 
Posts: 1513 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 06 June 2010Reply With Quote
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Thanks guys. I ordered a fine knife edge stone. Will give that a try.



AK-47
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Posts: 10189 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Most reamer manufacturers will sharpen reamers.....



.
 
Posts: 42462 | Location: Crosby and Barksdale, Texas | Registered: 18 September 2006Reply With Quote
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If you have some time on your hands to build a nice jig. I recently bought one of these out of print books on fleabay.
THE MACHINIST'S THIRD BEDSIDE READER


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Posts: 1862 | Location: Western South Dakota | Registered: 05 January 2005Reply With Quote
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NO; you will ruin them. Send them to a reamer maker if they are worn; if you even touch the outside, it is toast. Stones may be used for light touching up, by stoning the face of the cutting edge only; never the outside. That will change the dimensions. A real sharpening job entails grinding the entire reamer, back, creating a new tool.
 
Posts: 17380 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Wstrnhuntr:
I already know that it is NOT done on the outer surface.



AK-47
The only Communist Idea that Liberals don't like.
 
Posts: 10189 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
NO; you will ruin them. Send them to a reamer

quote:
Originally posted by Wstrnhuntr:
I already know that it is NOT done on the outer surface.

NOT if you do it right the first time.
PTG sells and (I think) uses this fixture that was built for GRETAN similar to the Machinist bedside Reader 3 jig. Gretan used to sell them with a video on how to use. I haven't seen the video, but I'm gonna build the fixture. Usually when you pull a reamer out of the chamber there are flutes that are full and some that are not. The stoning jig uses a .0001" indicator to find the high spots and stone them even with all the rest. Not for the faint of heart or those that can't walk and chew gum.
https://pacifictoolandgauge.co...mer-stoning-jig.html


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Posts: 1862 | Location: Western South Dakota | Registered: 05 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Which is why I do not recommend it for people whose skill and dexterity I do not know. First 4 answers were talking about a "stone".
 
Posts: 17380 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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If ONLY a touch up, and great care. the thin sones might be the answer since a pro sharpening by JGS is about $200.00

Personally, if actually dull or nicked I'd either get a new reamer or opt for the pro service...or rent one
 
Posts: 3667 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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"If your going to chamber more than ten rifles in your lifetime, you need this jig!"

I am at about 3500 times that amount of chambers. Probably won't invest in one at this point. I hope to not reach 40,000 before I retire. I've done some light stoning on a reamer a few times over the years. Generally only if it is some oddball reamer that I do not expect to ever use again. I do keep a ground carbide insert handy which can be drug along the flute of the reamer to knock off any chip that gets welded to the face of the cutting edge. Used right, a good carbide reamer will last a long time. If you are damaging the reamer in use, then you are doing something wrong. Most damage is probably done by tossing them naked in a drawer in the tool box with a bunch of other reamer, or another one of my favorites that I have seen is piling them up along the bed of the lathe.

Best,
John
 
Posts: 570 | Location: illinois | Registered: 03 April 2003Reply With Quote
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What are you guys fussing about?? Quit going the long way around the barn. EVERYONE knows if you run em' backwards the sharpen right up. Geez...
 
Posts: 247 | Registered: 24 August 2008Reply With Quote
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I have, for many years, been setting reamers up on centers. I then use a dial gauge and a support finger to index and hold the reamer in position while I, with a ceramic stone and a magnifier, hone each edge. This became necessary more often when I bought a lot of reamers from PTG. Regards, Bill
 
Posts: 3839 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by kendog:
What are you guys fussing about?? Quit going the long way around the barn. EVERYONE knows if you run em' backwards the sharpen right up. Geez...


I REALLY hope you're kidding! It's a darn good way to destroy a reamer!
 
Posts: 3667 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
quote:
Originally posted by kendog:
What are you guys fussing about?? Quit going the long way around the barn. EVERYONE knows if you run em' backwards the sharpen right up. Geez...


I REALLY hope you're kidding! It's a darn good way to destroy a reamer!


Yeah, everyone knows you have to put some valve lapping compound in the chamber before you run it backwards if you expect it to sharpen the reamer.

John
 
Posts: 570 | Location: illinois | Registered: 03 April 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Bill Leeper:
I have, for many years, been setting reamers up on centers. I then use a dial gauge and a support finger to index and hold the reamer in position while I, with a ceramic stone and a magnifier, hone each edge. This became necessary more often when I bought a lot of reamers from PTG. Regards, Bill


Thats interesting. What I have is an old H&M tool 6.5/257 set with both reamers, (rough and finish). Ive never used them myself. They may be fine just the way they are but to the touch they dont feel as sharp as my other reamers.

Id like to have a peak into Gunmaker's book at this. (from table of contents in the link)

"The Ne Plus Ultra on Hand Stoning Chambering Reamers - 10 full pages giving everything you could ever want to know on this topic, including the jig shown in the photo below, and MUCH more!"

I'm tempted to get the book for myself. It looks excellent.



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Posts: 10189 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
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There are, I believe, some pretty good instructions in Howe's "The Modern Gunsmith" (modern being kind of a figure of speech). Another source is "Advanced Gunsmithing" by Wayne Vickery. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3839 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I'll have to buy that Vickery book. Looks like it's easy to find. Flipped through 900 pgs of Howe and found the section on reamers. Forgot the mountain of info in that 2 volume set.



quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
Which is why I do not recommend it for people whose skill and dexterity I do not know. .....


Have to agree there. However there are some willing to learn to do it right the first time. I'm not qualified....... Yet......If I live long enough, I'll know it all. rotflmo


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Posts: 1862 | Location: Western South Dakota | Registered: 05 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I got my copy of Vickery's book from my dad. Vickery was a customer of my grandfather, who owned an automotive shop in Boise, Idaho. Wayne re-barreled and altered a '93 Mauser for Dad. The total cost, including the new barrel, a Lyman receiver sight and front sight, and altering the bolt handle, came to 25.00. Regards, Bill
 
Posts: 3839 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Vickery has some great information still pertinent today. He and Howe should be on every gunsmith and gunmakers shelf.

Though if I remember correctly I showed Vickery's bluing formula to my neighbor and asked if he could procure the necessary items. As a chemist I was hoping he could. Half the stuff he seemed to have no idea what it was and the other half he was muttering something about federal prison.


Nathaniel Myers
Myers Arms LLC
nathaniel@myersarms.com
www.myersarms.com
Follow us on Instagram and YouTube

I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools.
 
Posts: 1513 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 06 June 2010Reply With Quote
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I know a book exists identifying the "old" descriptions of some of those ingredients to a modern equivalent.....However, in my experience, some are just history

Way back I made my own rust blue and it worked great....except.... for a favorite that had a habit of exploding the bottle !!
 
Posts: 3667 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Bill Leeper:
I got my copy of Vickery's book from my dad. Vickery was a customer of my grandfather, who owned an automotive shop in Boise, Idaho. Wayne re-barreled and altered a '93 Mauser for Dad. The total cost, including the new barrel, a Lyman receiver sight and front sight, and altering the bolt handle, came to 25.00. Regards, Bill


A Williams 5D for the peep sight?


TomP

Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right.

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Posts: 14730 | Location: Moreno Valley CA USA | Registered: 20 November 2000Reply With Quote
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Obsolete ingredients. Angiers book has a lot of that. I gave up trying to figure out what some of them are/were.
Sperm oil is another one Ive seen in some other older books that you wont find on the shelves anymore. Theres a lot of hands on knowledge in some of those old books though.



AK-47
The only Communist Idea that Liberals don't like.
 
Posts: 10189 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
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I have one of those older books "The Gunsmith's Manual" by Stelle & Harrison published 1883.Has all kinds of information and formulas pertaining to the trade.


Never rode a bull, but have shot some.

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Posts: 1513 | Location: Camp Verde, AZ | Registered: 13 December 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by TomP:
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Leeper:
I got my copy of Vickery's book from my dad. Vickery was a customer of my grandfather, who owned an automotive shop in Boise, Idaho. Wayne re-barreled and altered a '93 Mauser for Dad. The total cost, including the new barrel, a Lyman receiver sight and front sight, and altering the bolt handle, came to 25.00. Regards, Bill


A Williams 5D for the peep sight?


No. It was a Lyman. Keep in mind, this was in 1946. Pricing was different then. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3839 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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