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One of Us |
Have my swedish mauser back from the 'smith - rebarrelled from 6.5x55 to 257 Roberts. Looks good - never had to 'break-in' a new barrel - any advice would be appreciated at this time. "Shoot hard, boys." | ||
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One of Us |
Don't let it get too hot! _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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One of Us |
Treat it the same as if you had 500 rounds through it already and it'll be fine. /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill | |||
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One of Us |
You can go through as much work as you want but I'm not sure I've ever seen a difference. If you are looking for something to do, Fire one shot and put a little JB paste on a patch run it down the barrel. Follow that with a patch of sweet's. Finally, run dry patches down till the barrel is clean. Then repeat the process for your first 10 shots. The best part of hunting and fishing was the thinking about going and the talking about it after you got back - Robert Ruark | |||
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one of us |
Don't get too worked up about it. I usually shoot one and clean for 20 and then go from there as normal. The main reason is for ease of cleaning. I have not found that much difference in accuracy except for one strange barrel. I think I do it mainly for Westpac's reason. Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | |||
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one of us |
I stopped with the tedious break-in procedures. I polish a new bbl. with JB and that's it. Also, I never let copper build up and take it out every 20 shots. André DRSS --------- 3 shots do not make a group, they show a point of aim or impact. 5 shots are a group. | |||
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one of us |
Just shoot the farkin thing. If the barrel builds up heavy copper fouling, send the rifle back to the guy that made the barrel with a note that you want HIM to make it right. Lifes to short to spend your time trying to do someone elses job | |||
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One of Us |
I guess I'm like the others who have already posted; a JP paste polish and flush before shooting it the first time, clean between shots until fed up with the process or you need a beer, whichever comes first. _________________________________ AR, where the hopeless, hysterical hypochondriacs of history become the nattering nabobs of negativisim. | |||
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One of Us |
one of the quality barrel makers turned me on to the following process and although laborious has always been very succesful for me. it must have been hart or shilen but i don't remember which one. clean barrel down to bare metal before shooting. fire one shot, clean with powder solvent, then slowly push patch with copper solvent threw barrel, i use sweets, but there are other good brands. noting amount of color indicating copper fouling. following instructions and cautions on copper solvent clean with same. test by slowly running another patch with copper solvent threw bbl. i use a plastic jag for test. if bbl is not showing any copper repeat this process until bbl. doesn't show fouling after one shot. then increase to 2 shots same process, then 3 shots, then 5 shots. if barrel will not clean to bare metal by using onr treatment of copper solvent. use jb bore compound, you must get bbl. down to bare metal between shots. the last bbl. i did came out perfect after 4 shots, one 2-shots, 2-3 shots.bbl. did not show any copper on first 5 shot group, another hand-lapped bbl. never did show any copper fouling. today both bbls. don't copper foul at all. velocity is like a new car, always losing value. BC is like diamonds, holding value forever. | |||
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One of Us |
Me's thinks breaking in a barrel is a PITA. If one spends the money on a quality barrel to begin with, there shouldnt be much of a problem anyway. I use to be anal about it when I first started installing barrels, but i dont anymore. One spends good money on a aftermarket barrel of quality should take care of it, and not let it get out of hand. Run a dry patch down a new barrel and feel how smooth it is from the lapping...NICE! I have not seen any diffrence between the two, just take care of it and it'll take care of you. You'll know when it needs cleaned or not. _____________________ Steve Traxson | |||
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One of Us |
Copper fouling on a new barrel is caused by the new reamed throat area. Don't wear the barrel out cleaning it just because the throat will cause the coppering until the throat is broken in. If the barrel is rough enough to copper on its on, you need to send it back. Butch | |||
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One of Us |
Some say do, some say don't. I happen to be one that does a break in, old habits hard to quit, but as for JB, polishing compound use, normally do only the first third of the bore, throat and 10" or so beyond for that is where the copper is picked up initially and once that area is burnished, usually no more copper problems. Match shooters would prefer going to a major match with some several hundred rounds or so through the bore and believe that those rounds have smoothed out the entry area of the bullet and you will hear the term "sweet" used to describe that condition. Have had knowledgeable 'smiths and shooters also say shoot a match and it is ready to go. Go figure! | |||
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One of Us |
Is JB bore paste an abrasive. I'm told that it does have abrasives in it, and wouldnt using a liquid cleaner be less harsh when used right. I have some JB here in the shop but have never used it after finding out it does have added abrasives. Anyone with a bore scope look after using the paste to see if maybe the land and grooves have been rounded or altered? I have a feeling the abrasives are pretty mild and non-agressive, but i still wander! I was also told of one barrel maker who would not gaurantee their barrels if they knew JB bore paste had been used, But i got this second hand so i cant be 100% about this or any of it...This is why i ask! _____________________ Steve Traxson | |||
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One of Us |
I belive the abrasive in JB bore cleaner is vegetable matter. As I understand it< JB will remove the powder fouling and "abrade" the copper off the steal and will "knock" of the the microscopic steal "ridges" but as far as removing barrel steal I suspect shooting removes more "ridges" than any amount of JB will. Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue. What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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This i did not know, thanks for your reply... _____________________ Steve Traxson | |||
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One of Us |
I don't think that you could use enough JB to hurt a barrel. Butch | |||
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One of Us |
I must point out JB won't polish a barrel...it will cut out copper NOT steel. ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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One of Us |
Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue. What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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one of us |
Wallhead,break the barrel in by soaking the bore with a pentrating oil like WD-40.This will produce a SUPER accurate bore.Put the red straw in from the reciever end and blast the chamber and bore with oil.Leave the bore soaked with oil for a few days and then wipe it dry with patches before you shoot.This will reduce damage to the rifling when the bore lands are at their most fragile stage-the first few shots.You should then use JB for every three rds for the 257 Roberts,and remove all copper.This should be done always. | |||
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One of Us |
Your kidding right? And do you pay somebody to administer toilet paper to you after using the toilet?
No, the bank account is too small to pay people to do men's job's. | |||
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One of Us |
Thanks for the information!
Whoa! I don't think I will be using JB bore paste after I shoot my gun 3 times. I can handle cleaning my gun every 20 shots or so but not 3. | |||
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one of us |
For a normal barrel I shoot a couple of rounds and clean it, for a couplle of cycles. For a hand lapped barrel, I shoot one round and then scrub the throat clean where the chambering left the reamer marks. I repeat that 10 times. Why bother getting a hand lapped bore and leaving a sewer pipe in front of it that peels copper from the bullets? Frank "I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money." - Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953 NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite | |||
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One of Us |
Yes, for break in. but not every 3 shots after. | |||
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one of us |
I thought it was similar to the 270win or 30-06 but see that it is more like a 308win or smaller.Therefore,I would clean after 3 only for break-in and every 60 if I am using molly coated bullets or 20 if uncoated. | |||
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Moderator |
panther piss and chickenlips ground up fine.. In other words, there's alot of voodoo around this... Fire 1, clean, should be 20-30 mins from first round to end of cleaning Fire 2, clean should be 20-30 mins from first round to end of cleaning Fire 3, clean. should be 20-30 mins from first round to end of cleaning The purpose of breaking it in is to fill all the micro holes and smooth any rough edges ... As Malm said, don't get it too hot, as a hot barrel erodes quicker opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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one of us |
AR, might I suggest reading a little closer? If I install/have installed a Shilen, Lilja, or other quality barrel and it's a copper fouling bitch, you can bet your ass that Doug, Dan or whomever will be getting that barrel back. Weather they chose to fix it or replace it I don't care, but I'll be damned if I'm going to be the one doing it. Let's put it this way, you go buy a new car, and if the tranny pukes on the way home from the dealer are you going to return it for warrenty repair, or are you going to pay to have a new one installed? Same thing, factory defective, factory repair. | |||
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One of Us |
Got it. | |||
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One of Us |
This was sent to me a few years back and I just ran across it whilst thumbing through some e-files. Another perspective on the subject. Gale McMillan Senior Member posted September 25, 1999 10:10 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The break in fad was started by a fellow I helped get started in the barrel business. He started putting a set of break in instructions in ever barrel he shipped. One came into the shop to be installed and I read it and the next time I saw him I asked him what was with this break in crap? His answer was Mac, My share of the market is about 700 barrels a year. I cater to the target crowd and they shoot a barrel about 3000 rounds before they change it. If each one uses up 100 rounds of each barrel breaking it in you can figure out how many more barrels I will get to make each year. If you will stop and think that the barrel doesn't know whether you are cleaning it every shot or every 5 shots and if you are removing all foreign material that has been deposited in it since the last time you cleaned it what more can you do? When I ship a barrel I send a recommendation with it that you clean it ever chance you get with a brass brush pushed through it at least 12 times with a good solvent and followed by two and only 2 soft patches. This means if you are a bench rest shooter you clean ever 7 or 8 rounds. If you are a high power shooter you clean it when you come off the line after 20 rounds. If you follow the fad of cleaning every shot for X amount and every 2 shots for X amount and so on the only thing you are accomplishing is shortening the life of the barrel by the amount of rounds you shot during this process. I always say Monkey see Monkey do, now I will wait on the flames but before you write them, Please include what you think is happening inside your barrel during break in that is worth the expense and time you are spending during break in. _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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One of Us |
I think I know what barrel maker he is speaking of. I don't think he makes even close to 700 barrels a year now. Butch | |||
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one of us |
I think JB is diatomaceous earth (fossilized remains of diatoms) in a petroleum suspension. Diatomaceous earth is used in other applications for mild polishing like toothpaste. It may have Fuller's earth in the formula as well. So if you run out of Colgate, you have an option in the reloading room... "Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson. | |||
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