If you were going to build a 250-3000 in a bolt gun, what action would you choose? My first thoughts were a pre 64 model 70 action in 243 as that wouldn't be hard to find and the action would already be set up with the mag box spacers and bolt stop. This would be a hunting rifle, trim in weight, and most likey would wear a plastic stock. I don't have any G33/40s laying around so that is not going to be an option and I don't like the idea of using a non-controlled feed action. A Mauser would work fine but would require more work than the Winchester initially. What do you think?

Prewar I just had a .250 Savage Imp. built. I used a Remington xp-100r action Krieger barrel Remington model 7 stock and bottom metal. It worked out real nice. I killed a deer with it this season. I'm not sure I'd do another improved making cases is a pain for sure. Rich

I've been thinking that the Rem. 799 would be pretty neat and Gunmaker is making bottom metal for it.

The minis are a bit too small.

It's made in 22-250. Is the mag too short for the longer 25 cal bullets?

A 1910 Mexican Mauser would be a good fit. With a pre 64 model 70, you are still dealing with a full sized action. The Mauser will take more effort but I have always thought they were worth it in the long run. Just my 2 cents worth.

How difficult is it too find a 1910 Mexican and what can I expect to pay.

They are harder to find than they were a few years ago but still available. I may even have one here somewhere.

Remington made their Classic in .250 Savage a while back; I just picked one up that's never been fired. It's for sale if you're interested.

Toomany thanks for the offer but I'm going to pass. Chic, PM me with details and a pic if possible. Also, would you prefer a 1910 to a 1936?

Here is a photo of the 1936

If I were going to build a .250 Savage and I had the money, I would find a very talented metalsmith on Par with a guy like Ron Lampert who built an absolutely fabulous .250 Savage for Jim Carmichel and stocked by Don Allen by cutting an inch out of a 1909 Argentine Action. You can see a photo of that gorgeous rifle on pages 68-69 of the Nov. 2003 issue of Outdoor Life Magazine.
Another good option would be a Model 70 Classic Short Action like the one in the .308 rifle on the left in the bottom photo. And if worse came to worse, perhaps a YUGO action might work.

I would say that the point of such a rifle is to have a smaller action and would not want a remington 700 or any action where there is more than a small amount of space left over or the need for magazine blocks etc.

The sako AII action is only just 2.8" has a small diameter bolt and is very trim. Fairly easily available, if you get it in Classic stock style you'll only have to rebarrel (it's a great stock)

I like to see .250's in actions sized to fit the .250. That means eaither ashortened Mauser or Springfield or the Sako 1894 mentioned. The new "Remington" Mausers I have seen have all been VERY rough. They can be made right, but for that money I would pay a guy to shorten a good military Mauser. And even if the Rem Maus is a little too short, just get the .22-250 version and have someone open it up.

1894's suggestion is the cheapest and would be great in my book. I love those older Sako actions. People on this board are hung up on CRF actions for everything, and I confess to suffering from that rediculous idea myself. The Sako is a push feed but is made better than most CRF actions out there.

quote:

People on this board are hung up on CRF actions for everything

That's for sure and a helluva lot of very fine push feeds are ignored. Winchester's push feed is a very fine action as well. The agrument for CRF may hold a bit for DG hunting but for deer and pronghorns and coyotes it fails to hold water at all. For varminting they are actually preferable.

If you insist on a controlled feed just convert a 96 Mauser to cock on open and rebarrel with a 250/3000. Feeding shouldn't be that difficult.
Or as others said there is nothing wrong with a push feed Winchester or Remington for the task.
.250 is a fine cartridge and if I didn't already have a .257 Roberts I'd probably have a .250.

I will swap you a 1936 Mexican even up for a pre-64 cloverleaf tang M70 stock if it is in decent shape and all original.

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The agrument for CRF may hold a bit for DG hunting but for deer and pronghorns and coyotes it fails to hold water at all.

Aesthetics gentlemen. There is always something to be said for aesthetics.

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
Here is a photo of the 1936

If I were going to build a .250 Savage and I had the money, I would find a very talented metalsmith on Par with a guy like Ron Lampert who built an absolutely fabulous .250 Savage for Don Allen by cutting an inch out of a 1909 Argentine Action.

This one is ready to go and priced pretty well considering the amount of work:

Hallowell 250 Savage

Trigger

I made a mistake and changed it in my post. The rifle was built for Jim Carmichel and stocked by Don Allen.

The one at Hallowell's (by the photos at least) looks just as nice. Its almost a sin to show pictures of such a beautiful rifle on the Internet!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Snellstorn has a great idea. The old Swedish Mausers would make a very and trim .250-3000.

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Originally posted by Marc_Stokeld:
Snellstorn has a great idea. The old Swedish Mausers would make a very and trim .250-3000.

Yeah, and they make an even better 6.5x55.

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If I were going to build a .250 Savage and I had the money, I would find a very talented metalsmith on Par with a guy like Ron Lampert who built an absolutely fabulous .250 Savage for Don Allen by cutting an inch out of a 1909 Argentine Action.

No question about it.....I've seen Ron Lampert's work and it's fabulous! This is the way to get the .250 Savage.....but it's a tad spendy.

The one posted by Tiggertate is very much like the one I saw at Lamperts and the price is very good for the quality and work!

A few years ago a good friend of mine built a 250 on the Win compact like the one 22WRF posted ... a new Douglas barrel and a 2X7 Leupold scope it is a sweet shooter !!!
But then he offered it to me and I snatched it right up knowing my little fellows will be needing guns before long !!!!

Jim Kobe,

I appreciate the offer but I'm going to hang on to my prewar stocks for a while longer, unless you know where I can find a Seliga, then maybe we could work something out.

How about buying a Savage rifle in 22-250 and then just rebarreling to .250 Savage? Then the Savage cartridge is right at home in the Savage action. That's good karma.

I would think the Kimber 84M would make a nice, trim rifle in 250 Savage.....

Cheers,

Dan

YES, that carmichael rifle was nice, and I agree either a Sako or a Win compact would be nice, WIN DID make some 70 SM, synthetic matte 250 and 257's back in the 90's, I had one in 708 they made more of them, and perhaps 308/243 not sure on the last 2, but all were 20" bbl

Fine matte finish looked fine, if you could find one and put a nice stock, it'd be nice, and to me better proportioned than a Rem classic that has 24". The Win SM was a PF action, but I never had a bit of problem and the extractor seems like it'd outlast any Rem extractor by far.

Do recommend if you found one to check the twist rate, as they may not have been a 10, it seems like it may have been slower and not great for the longer bullets if that matters, but I could likely be happy using only 100's in a straight 250, agree on the issue of forming brass, AI is nice, but you do have to do the work.

Being somewhat utilitarian ( that's not a religion) I mounted a deep throated 250-3000, 24" Shaw barrel on a Stevens Mod., 200. It had been wareing a .234 barrel. Reworked the trigger and put perhaps 250 rounds through it.

Accuracy and repeatability are just fine. MOA with 100 & 120 gr. bullets. Have shot 2", 5 shot groups at 300 yds. 2800 fps. is safely doable with the 120gr. bullet. Not a speed king but adequate enough for mule deer. The tupper ware stock may be objectionable to some, but to me it and its weight are just dandy. roger

quote:

Originally posted by duckboat:
How about buying a Savage rifle in 22-250 and then just rebarreling to .250 Savage? Then the Savage cartridge is right at home in the Savage action. That's good karma.

That can be done but on some rifles, the 22-250 magazine is too short for the 250-3000 with heavier bullets. You just have to check and see if a particular model will or won't work.

My all-time favortie .250-3000 was when Kimber of Oregon made a handful on the original M84 action back in the early '90's. I have never seen one in person and would love to buy one soem day. Foolishly passed on one in the mid-90's.

The original M84 is MUCH smaller than the current Kimber of America M84. I bought a Kimber of O' M84 barreled action with the intent of turning it into a very small .250. It is literally easier to get a .505 Gibbs to fit in a standard M98 than to shoe-horn the .250 in the M84. I wound up making a .223 out of the action.

If anyone ever sees a .250 M84 for sale, please let me know!

for those that didn't save their copy of that particular issue of Outdoor Life (shame on you) here is what that Carmichael Rifle looks like.

22wrf,

I like that a lot. I think it would look very nice next to my Hensley 280.

Prewar

Last time I spoke with Mr. Lampert he was living up near Guthrie MN. He told me he was getting up there in years and didn't do a whole lot of work anymore, but he also told me I could twist his arm to shorten an action for me for about $500 in labor. That was a few years ago. I don't know if he is still there, still doing work, or what.

But it would be intriguing wouldn't it???

That is intriguing. Is he a Guild member? How much would a person gain by shortening a 1910 Mexican for a 250 Savage if you were planning on only shooting 100-120 grain bullets and wanted maximum powder capacity?

I shortened a 1910 Mexican to where it will just take a .250. Well, actually not is not correct. I shortened it to the point where I had to open it back up to take the loaded round. I made it that short in an effort to cut every quarter ounce possible. I then square bridged the action and cut it to use Gentry steel rings. These are super-light and very strong.

I started this project back in '01 and if I keep working on it at the present pace, I will be able to hunt with it no later than 2093.

What can I say, I am a custom gunmaker with ADD. My moto is "Why finish one project when I can almost finish 10!?!"

But to directly answer your question, to me it was definitely worth it to shorten the Mex. ANd I did a lot of milling on her to remove unecessary steel. I think it is worth the effort if your budget can stomach it.

quote:

Originally posted by Marc_Stokeld:
I shortened a 1910 Mexican to where it will just take a .250. Well, actually not is not correct. I shortened it to the point where I had to open it back up to take the loaded round. I made it that short in an effort to cut every quarter ounce possible. I then square bridged the action and cut it to use Gentry steel rings. These are super-light and very strong.

I started this project back in '01 and if I keep working on it at the present pace, I will be able to hunt with it no later than 2093.

What can I say, I am a custom gunmaker with ADD. My moto is "Why finish one project when I can almost finish 10!?!"

But to directly answer your question, to me it was definitely worth it to shorten the Mex. ANd I did a lot of milling on her to remove unecessary steel

Well, lets see a photo of it.

FLanked by a G 33/40 and a regular length M1910

Picture taken a couple of years ago

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
for those that didn't save their copy of that particular issue of Outdoor Life (shame on you) here is what that Carmichael Rifle looks like.

What did he do to make the front ring and rear ring enlarged?

That one piece base is sooo out of place.

Rich

Prewar64-250sav.

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