My CZ needs a barrel band. Has anyone removed the front sight, and how hard was it? It doesn't look to me like it is integral.

Assuming it is soldered, will a propane torch heat it enough to allow removal, and is this likely to cause scale in the barrel?

Once I get it removed, I plan to affix a Talley band that I have lying around, and the appropriate size NECG Masterpiece front sight with the dual bead setup.

Thanks,
Todd

Todd,
You'll need a block of wood, as these are generally VERY tight...

remove insert, remove screw (some do, some don't have a set screw, iirc)

heat with propane (or mapp) and when the solder flows a bit, tap it off with the block...

if it doesn't come off the first time, let it cool, take a GOOD and CLEAN (flat) faced hammer and tap the band in a lenghwise (down the barrel) enough to JUST mark the surface of the band (this is stretching the band)... taptaptaptapatptap... remember, it's easier to follow up with another taptaptaptap than cur and crown!!

then try again with the heat.


i like the cz barrel to be 23", put a talley on them, and recut the front site for necg inserts.

Thanks Jeffe. What about scale? Any merit in heat transfer paste, or is propane / MAPP temp not high enough? Solder should melt at what 800 degrees? And I guess they did use that heat in the first place to put it on...

I did think about shortening the barrel, but don't want to mess with having it recrowned. I am going to finally get around to straightening the stock out too - shortened, ebony tip, fully bedded, and refinished.

Todd

Use a propane torch and do not worry about scale. Don't know exactly what solder CZ uses, but my best eyeball guesstimate is tha it melts in the ~400°+ F melting range solder.

One thing I suggest is that you use some temporary sights to determine the final height front and rear sight combo before you put the "real deal" on. I have never seen a CZ that did not shoot incredibly lower than what calculations show they should be. My SWAG is that it has to do with how out of line the CZ barrels/raceways/bridge surfaces are. I have also wondered if the rediculous way CZ installs the barrels has anything to do with it.

At any rate, don't go soldering your final sights on before you know how high they should be

I may do that with the existing front sight next time I shoot it - cobble something together to see how high it needs to be.

The other thing I am hoping is that the NECG sight has a bigger "footprint" so that it completely covers and even overlaps the whole area of the barrel occupied by the original sight. I would like to avoid having to reblue, since it is so hard (for me!) to match polishing that would mean polishing the whole action which is a hell of a lot of work for a stupid front sight and barrel band. I also don't plan to solder the new one on, just use the high strength LocTite and the set screw. I usually burr a small depression in the barrel where the set screw contacts to allow it to set in, and haven't had one budge yet.

I won't be doing anything until after deer season in Michigan. I hope the Hornady 400 RNSP is ok for deer.

Thanks for info,
Todd

Now I am curious - how does CZ install these barrels? US Enfield M17 style, with a 100# flywheel to cinch them in?

And one further rant - why can't they put a barrel band sling attachment on these to begin with? Many people in the big bore market want them, if only for looks. The Ruger OEM ones are dirt cheap, I am sure CZ could do it pretty cheaply too.

Then again at the price I paid for a 416 Rigby I really shouldn't be complaining.

I would love to know how much force is used when they install the barrels. It is totally rediculous and serves no good purpose. Then to add insult to injury, they put some thread locker on them.

when I take off a barrel and have to reinstall it, I always trim some off of the shoulder of the barrel. Even then I often have to go back and trim a little more off a couple of times. Otherwise I can't get the barrel to index even with just stupid force. There is no good reason for doing this.

My CZ/Brnos have been cut to 21" and the front ramp is a NECG ramp with the adjustable blade. This gives me adjustable elevation. Blades are Flourescent red. Both have barrel band front swivels.

Marc,

Thanks for the info - sounds like a big-assed flywheel indeed.

Zim,

By adjustable do you mean buying them in different heights? Or do they have one that I am overlooking that is screw adjustable?

That was actually my plan - guesstimate height by shooting it, finetune if needed with different inserts on the front and possibly a file.

TMG,
They have a Universal Screw on Ramp that has .060" of adjustmant by screw. The blades are also available in different heights. The ramp also comes in 4 different heights so you can acheive almost any range you desire. I cut barrels to 21" which necessitated a new ramp. This filled the bill perfectly. Function is perfect. Very pleased with it.

quote:

Originally posted by TMG:
And one further rant - why can't they put a barrel band sling attachment on these to begin with? Many people in the big bore market want them, if only for looks. The Ruger OEM ones are dirt cheap, I am sure CZ could do it pretty cheaply too.

Then again at the price I paid for a 416 Rigby I really shouldn't be complaining.

Okay, barrel bands are cool looking but not necessary. Never been hit by a swivel stud.

One further question - this one I am holding, of approx. '03 vintage, does not have crossbolts. A more recently made one I saw had two crossbolts. When did that change? It does have a decent recoil pad.

I am thinking of putting a couple in - probably the B Square models that Brownells sell.

Will,
I can think of no practical reason for all the sight and barrel band work I will soon do - other than that a 416 Rigby NEEDS a barrel band.

Bill, I respect you a bunch... but it only takes ONE hit from a recoil stud to give you a nasty cut and flinch..

40 bucks for a talley band is actually ALOT cheaper than rebarreling, of which there is "no reason" when a 416 rigby is as available, but one WANTS a 416 rem...

boils down to WANT

If you look in the European Sling Swivel tab on NEGC's web site they have a sweat-on barrel swivel similar to a double rifle front swivel that will save you having to remove the front sight. Or, another option is to cut the top half of hte Talley off and intall a half-band barrel swivel. Done right, they look very good.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

I haven't done much with this in the whole time I've owned it (other than shoot it!), but needed to get a couple more guns with scopes ready for a family deer hunting trip. I was not kidding about deer with it - I will be using it since other people will be using my scoped 9.3 & 8 mms.

So it will be after that when I get around to doing this, but I will post pics.

Todd

I have 2 CZ's that I have shortened the barrels on, a 416 Rigby at 22" and a 458 WM at 21". I though at first that shortening the barrels would not make that much of a difference. Boy was I wrong. It made a dramatic improvement in the pointing and handling feel of the rifles. I had both rifles parkerized and put on NEC banded front sights with a fiber optic bead. I attached the front sights with an adhesive known as "Goop" that you can buy in most any hardware store, comes in a squeeze tube, cleans up with mineral spirits. Once this stuff sets the sights are rock solid.
With the new front sight, the factory rear sights were way too low. The Williams "WGOS" flat rear sight base is an almost perfect fit in the CZ factory rear sight dovetail. I attached these with the adhesive also, you can play around with different rear sight blade/ front sight bead heights to regulate the sights to where you want. The nice thing about using this adhesive method it that if you need to tweak the sights after installation, a little bit of heat from a torch will break the bond. Clean up, re-position and you are good to go.
Before you commit to a barrel band, take a look at the front sling mounting bracket Jim Brockman sells. This is a very nice, simple way to mount a front sling and eliminates all the messing around with the front sight. A simple forearm inletting job and you are done.