I think it would be interesting to hear of people's experiences using a router for various stockmaking functions such as cutting barrel channels and cutting out mortises for receivers and bottom metal.

Anybody use a router for any of these stockmaking chores?

Sure I use a router to do 98% of my stock making. Oops I guess that is because it is on my duplicator.

Whatever you do, you are going to need jig(s). Unless you are going to use them a lot I can't see how you would save time or $$.

Can't imagine a high $$ blank and an uncontrolled router. Even a duplicator can get away from you if you don't pay attention.

Only one of those fancy overhead models called a mill. This on a CNC mill

It's a bad idea from several different levels.

I used my lathe as a vise, pinning the stock between the face plate in the headstock and a
face plate made to fit in the tail stock.
With the router mounted on the tool post.
I was able to cut most of the forend and finish with a rasp. I now have a duplicator, such as it is.
I think a guy would be better off, removing wood
for inletting with something like a forster bit.
A router would be way too dangerous in my hands anyway. Kenny

All mine are done with chisels and scrapers

I learned to make stocks by hand with the help of a router, drill press, 12" disc sander and band saw. The drill press to get a "hole" started for the magazine box, the band saw to remove excess from the outside, the router to establish the "hole for the action to be inletted into and remove a good share of the wood from the barrel channel. We used the router to remove excess from the outside where you can't use a saw. And the 12" disc sander to quickly work "flats" when shaping. We used no templates when using the router or any of the other tools, all free-hand. I watch the instructor do a couple for other students and when it was time for mine, had the confidence to do it myself, while he watched and gave pointers. Childs play! You can remove alot of wood in a hurry,,, just don't get greedy! I can cut inletting (top side,, ya'can't use a router for the bottom metal) just about as close as many pre-inletted stocks. Just takes some confidence in knowing what you're doing, patients, sharp high speed bits ( carbide tends to 'grab'), and a firm grip. I've made more than just a couple using the methods I was taught and never made a boo-boo. All 'final fitting' was done with chisels, gouges and scrapers. The power tools are used just to remove excess, not to make any finish cuts.

Silvers and Sicero:

Excellent. Thank you for responding to my question.

quote:

You can remove alot of wood in a hurry,,, just don't get greedy! I can cut inletting (top side,, ya'can't use a router for the bottom metal) just about as close as many pre-inletted stocks

While I can understand it you are VERY CAREFUL and lay out the upper inletting line you could probably free hand it as long as you have a flat surface. I would be interested to know how you handle the fact that the inletting tapers in or say a round bottom of a M700. A duplicator simply traces a pattern. How do you deal with that doing it free hand??

I do not recommend using a router free hand for the novice. Those guys have a lot of skill and experience doing this.
I do use a one HP router too, mounted solidly in my duplicator.

well, if we all agree that a dremel/mototool is a retail way of screwing up decent wood, i think a freehand router could make a wholesale deal out of it..

in other words, unless you want to make tinder and /or grievous bodily injuries, that would be a NO on the router, for any reason, freehand

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
well, if we all agree that a dremel/mototool is a retail way of screwing up decent wood, i think a freehand router could make a wholesale deal out of it..

in other words, unless you want to make tinder and /or grievous bodily injuries, that would be a NO on the router, for any reason, freehand

Either you've got some hand skills or you don't, jeffeosso. I've yet "to make tinder" of the dozen or so stocks that I've made using this method. The inletting is sharp and clean as the power tools are only used for the rough work. All finish work is done in the traditional way, with chisels, gouges and scrapers. Finish shaping is done with a #49, double cut files and rifflers. This method is NOT for the timid or faint of heart. "A man's got to know his limitations". After I'd made that first stock I realized there are no limits. The only limits are self imposed and lie witin. Narrow thinking yeilds 'narrow' results.

I don't use routers anymore for anything after this accident in May 2011. This was post surgery after a VY advancement flap procedure (I'll spare you the unbandaged photos)

Slivers

You should consider doing a you tube video of this process.

You mentioned instructor. Was this at a formal school ?

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:

quote:

You can remove alot of wood in a hurry,,, just don't get greedy! I can cut inletting (top side,, ya'can't use a router for the bottom metal) just about as close as many pre-inletted stocks

While I can understand it you are VERY CAREFUL and lay out the upper inletting line you could probably free hand it as long as you have a flat surface. I would be interested to know how you handle the fact that the inletting tapers in or say a round bottom of a M700. A duplicator simply traces a pattern. How do you deal with that doing it free hand??

Cove bits, common sense (which isn't so 'common', anymore) and a critical eye for a round bottom action. You've got a straight cutter, so angled sides have to be hand inlet. I did say "almost as close". The object is to remove excess wood, not do the finish work. Lay out is critical. If you're "ham handed" or lack concentration this method is NOT for you. That 2 3/8" to 2 1/2" width of a stock blank is pleanty of surface for a router base. "True" the blank, off cheek piece side square to the top, that gives you a flat surface for the router base (the local cabinet shop has always been happy to help me out. A 8" jointer makes easy work of this.) With the blank "trued" accurate measurement is possible (that too depends on your skills).Just make sure you secure that blank in a solid vise, otherwise you'll be disappointed. "Plant" your feet, where you don't have to move while you're cutting and concentrate on what you're doing. I'd recommend a 'coach' who is familiar with the process for the first one, at least....

I guess I was thinking more of mounting the router in a table and using it for the barrel channel rough cut, and some rough cuts for the action mortise, and then of course leaving the rest of the work to chisels and scrapers.

quote:

Originally posted by Craftsman:
Slivers

You should consider doing a you tube video of this process.

You mentioned instructor. Was this at a formal school ?

Sorry, I don't have the ability to make U-Tube videos nor the time. I bearly have time to visit the various firearms forums. I've posted more tonight than I have anywhere in the past 4-5 months. This was the method taught at MCC 20 yrs.+ ago. Now, I don't believe stockmaking from a blank is taught there, anymore. I haven't been back or stayed in contact with anyone there since I graduated in '93. Lindy2, there's always more than one way to "skin the cat".

I think you should have stopped just before
"never made a boo boo" Kenny

quote:

Originally posted by sicero:
I think you should have stopped just before
"never made a boo boo" Kenny

Maybe I should have said "I've never made a boo-boo using the router". I've made plenty by hand, with a chisel or gouge, and know where each and every one is at.