I have a little Mannlicher stocked 358 Norma with a 19" barrel. The rifle has a peep sight and has never fit me. I have to pull my head down to see through the sight. I had always planned on refinishing the stock as I got time because while they checkering is first class they didn't fill the pores (at all) plus the recoil pad and plastic tip need to be replaced and white spacers removed. Current condition:


As I was measuring the stock the drop at the rear is only 1" from centerline of the bore. So I was thinking of lowering the top of the cheek piece to make it more classic. I think it would fit better and could be done during the refinish without alterations to the checkering. Through using my photo software I did the work. What do you think. Leave as is and refinish or alter?

It is a nice looking litle rifle.

As I have never handled it, I am not quite sure what to suggest. The first thing I would consider is measuring where and why exactly the stock kept my face from coming into correct position for the sights as it is shouldered.

I doubt I would want to take much off the height of the rear of the comb, though that MIGHT prove essential. The straighter the stock, within reason, the less leverage recoil has on it/you. Hopefully, I could be able to get it corrected by lowering the front of the comb a bit and narrowing the whole comb some. I would even consider creating a slightly concave comb/cheekpiece. Though that isn't what moderns call "classic" in appearance, it was faily often done by the old-timers and was often pretty comfortable. (And the old 'Weatherby' idea of having the front of the comb slide away from your face is nice, when actually shooting.)

I would NOT narrow or concave the comb without lowering the front of it, though, as I would not want that thinner. sharper, edge being propelled by recoil up into my cheek-bone. But, I have very prominent cheek-bones due to my anscestery, so you might be able to do more of that than I.

I would replace the pistol grip cap with a steel one and the recoil pad with a thinner, solid one, both without spacers. When wearing heavier Fall clothing to places where moose and similar appropriate game for that cartridge reside, that would just make it handier for me anyway. Also, that slight shortening of the pull length would move your face a bit farther forward to where the stock is naturally a little thinner, thus allowing you to get more behind the sights.

Good luck in your project. Looks like a rifle that will be a real winner when it fits you properly.

AC

if you don't like it the way it feels to you now, then take a rasp to it tonight and never look back

AC when you mention not lowering the rear of the comb are you talking about the Monte Carlo or the rear at the pad? That pad with spacer is only 1" So I planned on using a red 1" decel. I should have taken a picture from the rear wood could be removed from both sides slimming it down a touch. The LOP and grip feel great. I think I might be a little limited at the front of the cheekpiece as to what if any I can remove and not effect the checkering.

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:
AC when you mention not lowering the rear of the comb are you talking about the Monte Carlo or the rear at the pad? That pad with spacer is only 1" So I planned on using a red 1" decel. I should have taken a picture from the rear wood could be removed from both sides slimming it down a touch. The LOP and grip feel great. I think I might be a little limited at the front of the cheekpiece as to what if any I can remove and not effect the checkering.

I was talking about taking a bit off of the height and width of the front of the Monte Carlo, so it slopes more steeply to the front...thus pushing it a bit away from your face as the gun recoils. That will also 'cause it to feel a bit thinner all the way from the rear of the MC to the front of it...allowing your face to go a little to the right (more behind the sights).

Even if the pad is only an inch now (and it looks a bit thicker than that including its base), I'd go to about a half-inch or maybe 3/4" solid pad and toss the spacer. That would shorten the stock a small tad and in effect move your face farther forward to where the stock is a "skosh" thinner. You can always lower the rear of the MC a bit after you see how the stock looks with the front of it lowered.

It is often surprising what just 1/16th" thinner wood can do in terms of face position, whether you acomplish that by actually thinning the wood, or by changing the length so that your face is naturally placed where the stock is thinner. And, of course, if you both thin the butstock or MC or Cheekpiece, and change the position of your face on the stock, the compounded alterations can have a very great effect.

Ramrod, I'm with Mark, start whitling on that baby, and get the white spacers gone, and stick a decelerator on her. I think your photoshop edited stock is interesting, but the front of her needs to come down a bit too I think.

Let us see your result.

Good Luck--Don

quote:

Originally posted by Marc_Stokeld:
if you don't like it the way it feels to you now, then take a rasp to it tonight and never look back

That's what I was thinking!

I would do exactly what you are thinking: take a rasp to the comb, replace the pad with an Old English type, replace the grip cap with steel and refinish. And I'd replace the aluminum Williams receiver sight with a steel Lyman 48.

quote:

Originally posted by ElCaballero:

quote:

Originally posted by Marc_Stokeld:
if you don't like it the way it feels to you now, then take a rasp to it tonight and never look back

That's what I was thinking!

Include me here as well.

I will give you a $100 for it

I think I would take that "tear drop" thingy off the front of the cheek piece put a shadow line on it too while I had the finish off of it.

Also, shorten the grip about 1/8"

Terry

I think ... you can reshape this to suit you very well!!
here's what I think on the stock
the toe line is too shallow, the grip is too long, the nose is too high, the heel is too high, and the line between them is a little too shallow...

the cheekpiece? yeah.. well... not my favorite.

jeffe

quote:

I will give you a $100 for it

Heck that wouldn't cover all the white spacers. Plus I would have those 10-12 boxes of Factory ammo I picked up on close out from Grafs.

I agree the front of the comb needs to come down a touch as well. I have a stock that fits me real well with open sights. I think the channel is large enough to allow me to lay this one in. If so I'll try and copy what I can.

While the tear drop is not exactly my cup of tea either if I try and remove it I have a checkering issue. The bottom of the tear flows into the checkering. So I would have to lower and recut the checkering in that area if I removed it or added a shadow line. Last time I got my checkering tool out I had to send the stock off to get my "repair" REPAIRED.

fla3006--- Man you have a great pair of eyes to see what type sight that is. I looked on the Lyman site as well as Brownells and Midway but couldn't fine the #48.

Thr reason you cannot find the Lyman 48 at Lyman is because it thas been discintinued for years.
Seems like all the current Lyman receiver sights made today are like the Williams, made of aluminum.
Paul B.

Ramrod,
I say go for it too.

The white line spacers and various swoops are definitely out of fashion, but I see them like fins on a 57 chevy, and I'd leave 'em. But that's me.

After much soul searching I've decided to go ahead. I think I can remove the tear drop without too much impact on the checkering. I think I can deepen it without screwing it up.

I've shot the rifle now for two years. Two trips to the ranch to take hogs. It wasn't until today that I notice the bolt hits the front of the comb. I guess I lift the bolt as I work it. I stuck the barreled action in my Whitworth stock today. I feels great. The sight lines up a lot better. So I'm dropping the front about 1/4" so it matches my Whitworth then removing the monte carlo. The back is 1" so I think I'll leave it.
Shorten the grip so there is 1/8" between the checkering and the cap. Old English red pad.

I to like the idea of a shadow line. But, I have never added one after the fact. Do I lower the majoring of the stock or cut a shoulder in the bottom of the curve and then recontour?

Only issue is my wife reminded me I have to finish some furniture for a wedding gift and a promise to her. So it will be this winter.

The way I put a shadow line on is take a small flat wood shim about 1/8" thick 1"X1". lay it flat on the butt below the cheek piece. lay a utility razor on top of the shim, move the shim down the cheek piece and lightly scribe it. Now you have a very good idea of what wood needs to come off for the shadow line. I use a file to clean out the wood and achieve the line. Might not be how a professional does it, but it works for me.

Terry

Ramrod, watch ebay for cheap vintage Lyman 48s.

quote:

The way I put a shadow line on is take a small flat wood shim about 1/8" thick 1"X1". lay it flat on the butt below the cheek piece. lay a utility razor on top of the shim, move the shim down the cheek piece and lightly scribe it. Now you have a very good idea of what wood needs to come off for the shadow line. I use a file to clean out the wood and achieve the line. Might not be how a professional does it, but it works for me.

Thanks Terry, Kind of what I was thinking but like I said I had never tried it. I have an old junk stock I think I'll practice on.