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I’ve always been an advocate of parkerizing my work/hunting guns, i.e., those that are subject to abuse or harsh environments. I’ve had several and they all held up well. I’m making plans on a new build and was considering having it Parked also. I called my local guy and he no longer does parkerizing. He’s now into cerakoting and gave me a long list of reasons why it’s a much better finish. So, my question is, from your practical experience, it cerakote a better finish than parkerizing? Shoot Safe, Mike NRA Endowment Member | ||
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I don't know if it's any better, but its every bit as good. | |||
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Like comparing apples to tomatoes; both are fruit, but the similarity ends there. Phosphating is a chemical process that gives a good medium to hold rust prevention compounds like oil. But it will definitely rust if that oil is not there. . Cerakote is baked on paint, that keeps the moisture away. Call me and we can discuss more details. Your guy quit doing phosphating because it is much more labor intensive to perform. Cerakote is, paint. | |||
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Tom, You’ve said it before... “it’s paint”. They never call it that... it’s a baked on finish. I’ll call you, and I’ve made my decision to stick with phosphate. Shoot Safe, Mike NRA Endowment Member | |||
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It's paint ... "baked on" ... same as engine/bbq paint .. when i use 'paint" i either let it hang in the sun, or run a propane torch over it, to get up to c150f or so .. the skill, as in all paints, is the coverage, not the baking cerakote is NOT powder (plastic) coat, totally different process opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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So cerakote is a baked on finish that hardens to protect the steel underneath. And parkerizing is a chemical reaction that affects the surface of the steel to protect it. Am I over simplifying it? Shoot Safe, Mike NRA Endowment Member | |||
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I found this: https://www.cerakote.com/resou...te-vs-other-coatings From there site: Cerakote® Ceramic Coatings, manufacturer of the world's strongest thin-film ceramic finish, including firearm coatings, high temperature coatings, and the world's strongest clear coatings. Get Close and Wack'em Hard | |||
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Parkerizing is a chemical coating process whereby a thin layer of with Zinc Phosphate or Manganese Phosphate is chemically bonded with a ferrous surface. It will not work with Brass or Copper for example nor with Stainless Steels. The Zinc Phosphate produces a grey color finish and the manganese produces a black color finish. Parkerizing was originally developed by the Parker Automobile Co as a rust resistant base for car parts that were to be painted and it worked exceptionally well in that role. Many miitaries continued to use parkerizing as a base for painted finishes on firearms. The british did this a lot with many guns during WWII including their SMLEs and Hi-power pistols. Its a porous finish that holds oil well which is why the US military liked it. But as pointed out it will rust if left unprotected by oil or paint. Like blueing--parkerizing is a surface finish that chemically reacts with the base metal to give it durability. Ceracoat is a ceramic based enamel that develops its best adhesion when the metal has been properly cleaned and prepared and then baked on. Though there are now air dry versions of cera-coat which the company will tell you are not as durable. Its far more impervious to water than either blueing or parkerizing. IMO caracoating is very tough and durable but it will wear and sometimes chip in areas of high contact. I'd personally take a ceracoated firearm over a parkerized firearm into difficult environments any day of the week! | |||
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Thank You! Get Close and Wack'em Hard | |||
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Cerakote is a special kind of paint. I've been applying it to rifles and handguns for over 10 years. The prep is crucial for a lasting finish. The paint goes on very very thin and is baked on creating a fairly secure surface. I've got a buddy who insists on bead blasting the metal and over applying the paint, making it look like it was done with a brush -- ugly and does not last. The metal must be sandblasted and clean enough to deliver a baby on. The air dry version is a waste of time and money. If cerakote 'chips', it was applied wrong. It definitely can wear in high stress areas -- usually found on handguns used in competition with lots of holster presentations. | |||
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Thanks for all the info and technical aspects of Cerakote vs Parkerizing. I’m old fashioned and enjoy cleaning and wiping down my rifles... it’s relaxing. I’m going with milspec Parkerizing. Shoot Safe, Mike NRA Endowment Member | |||
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There's no question that Ckote is more durable protective finish (call it "paint, if you like). Unlike Ckote, parkerizing isn't maintenance free, it needs to be oiled. That's all it is, a way to hold oil close to the surface of the steel so it doesn't rust. For me, only applicable same as hot bluing for retaining original finishes of collectible firearms. They're largely inferior in terms of durability and level of protection. | |||
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Some guys just don't like paint on their rifles; I am one. Maybe on a beater with a plastic stock is it. And I have some too. No matter how well it protects. The main attraction is that it is easier to apply than other finishes. No flames, boiling solutions, tanks, etc. Yes I do apply cerakote, duracoat, guncoat. Mil Spec phosphating performs well enough for the Army to use it for the past 100 years. | |||
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I have used it a little. Put it on a couple muzzle brakes and did a barrel. I am not a big fan. I prefer a good ol hot blue appearance much better. | |||
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