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Removing factory pad on an HS-Precision stock?
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Can someone give me the quick run-down on how to remove a factory pad on an HS-Precision stock? I'd like it to be salvageable in case I decide to put it back on. I'm pulling it off so that I can put a mercury recoil reducer in the stock.

What's the trick? Heat it? Soak it with something? Etc?
 
Posts: 852 | Location: Austin | Registered: 24 October 2003Reply With Quote
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I don't know how you will be able to cut it off and still be able to reuse it and make it look good. Spring for a new pad, grab the saw and be done with it. Big Grin

Of course if you can't afford a new pad, cut the stock just past the base of the pad, with a disc or belt sander, remove everything that doesn't look like a recoil pad, square the stock and reattach it. If you are really good you may lose .250"


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Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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I know that I can cut it off, but regardless of whether or not I can afford it, it shouldn't be necessary to destroy the thing to get it off.
 
Posts: 852 | Location: Austin | Registered: 24 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Contact H-S Precision directly. They should be able to tell you whether it is possible to remove the pad with an eye toward possible re-attachment.

George


 
Posts: 14623 | Location: San Antonio, TX | Registered: 22 May 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Kingfisher:
I know that I can cut it off, but regardless of whether or not I can afford it, it shouldn't be necessary to destroy the thing to get it off.


Recoil pads that are held on by glue/epoxy are not intended to be removed or reused. But good luck!


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Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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I've never had a HS stock. Are there screws? If so remove them and see what you got. If not you're probably shit out of luck. I've had some that are screwed and glued as well.


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Posts: 6205 | Location: Cascade, MT | Registered: 12 February 2002Reply With Quote
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The several I've had the pads were glued on.

See Westpacs last post!
 
Posts: 3563 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 02 August 2004Reply With Quote
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I found some posts elsewhere, external of AR that gave me some pointers. I've basically got to freeze the stock or get it damn cold and I should be able to knock it off. I'll probably go back with a Limbsaver anyway, but it'd be nice to not have to destroy the thing if I can avoid it.

Next I've got to figure out how big of a mercury recoil reducer will fit in the stock (after I get the pad off).
 
Posts: 852 | Location: Austin | Registered: 24 October 2003Reply With Quote
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I'd be afraid I'd next be replacing the stock as a result of trying to save the pad with that method.


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Posts: 6205 | Location: Cascade, MT | Registered: 12 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Alright so I caved and went the "non-salvageable" route. Smiler I was able to get it off but it's thoroughly destroyed. Considering there are screw holes in the stock (and in the pad) the fact that they glue the pads on is stupid, but it is what it is. So now I've got a nice cavity (no foam in mine like was reported on some others) for the mercury recoil reducer. The trick now is grinding off the trash that was left behind and getting down to the square edge of the stock.

Now that I have the actual stock measurements I'm going to put in a call to SVL and see if they have a limbsaver that will fit my stock out of the box, rather than having to grind one. If they have one that matches, I'll report back.
 
Posts: 852 | Location: Austin | Registered: 24 October 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Kingfisher:
Alright so I caved and went the "non-salvageable" route. Smiler I was able to get it off but it's thoroughly destroyed. Considering there are screw holes in the stock (and in the pad) the fact that they glue the pads on is stupid, but it is what it is. So now I've got a nice cavity (no foam in mine like was reported on some others) for the mercury recoil reducer. The trick now is grinding off the trash that was left behind and getting down to the square edge of the stock.

Now that I have the actual stock measurements I'm going to put in a call to SVL and see if they have a limbsaver that will fit my stock out of the box, rather than having to grind one. If they have one that matches, I'll report back.


Hate to rain on your parade, but they won't have one that will fit your stock. Glue a block of wood at the back end so you can attach the new pad to it. Use screws, they come off easier that way. thumb


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This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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Just a follow up. I measured the stock dimensions and called SVL. They were able to look in their book and give me one of their prefit pads that fit those dimensions. A Browning A-Bolt pad of all things. It was slightly wider down near the bottom. After a little careful work with a rasp it's a perfect fit.
 
Posts: 852 | Location: Austin | Registered: 24 October 2003Reply With Quote
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That's what it's all about. thumb Now, how did you attach it?


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This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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That's another matter entirely! I haven't attached it yet because I still need to order the recoil reducer(s). Problem is that the money I had set aside for that had to go to replacing a rim on the wifes car that decided to crack while we were going down the highway. Still trying to figure that one out.

My plan right now is just to drill some pilot holes in the stock, just slightly undersized and attach the pad with screws. I MIGHT use some light duty adhesive as well, just in case.
I think I'm goign to glass the reducers into the stock but coat them with release agent when I fill the cavity so that I can remove them if need be.
 
Posts: 852 | Location: Austin | Registered: 24 October 2003Reply With Quote
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I had success with sharp tools and patience. Started with a single edge razor blade, cutting into the glue line. Next, used an Exacto blade and got it deep enough into the glue line to be able to completely remove the pad.
Glued some wood pieces into the stock to accept screws. Marked the screw location, drilled holes and reinstalled the pad. Worked fine.
A call to the factory resulted in instructions to freeze the stock and the pad would come off easier. I couldn't do that because it would have trashed the "skim coat" of Devcon Steel epoxy that I had in place.
 
Posts: 226 | Registered: 07 January 2005Reply With Quote
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My favorite method of attaching a pad to a synthetic stock. Take a piece of 3/8 aluminum stock and cut off two pieces 1 1/2 inches long. Drill and tap them in your lathe for 12-28 screws and groove the outsides similar to what you see on aluminum pillars for bedding.

Apply release agent to two 12-28 machine screws and install them in your pad. Apply release agent to the bottom of your pad and thread the two bushings you just made on to the screws. Carefully measure and determine exactly what position you want the pad and mark it. Then clean the inside of the stock with acetone and apply acraglass gell in the area needed to secure the bushings. Hold the pad in position with duct tape and or rubber tubing.

After curing remove the pad and build up more acraglass gel where needed to thoroughly support the screw bushings. Reattach the pad for scribing and grinding to fit.


Craftsman
 
Posts: 1536 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001Reply With Quote
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