Looking at a Ruger 44 Carbine that has had two Weaver scope mount blocks epoxied down, one on the receiver and one on the barrel. Whoever did it still didn't get them right as the rear is still about .060 higher than the front.

It's a clear epoxy, probably done 20-30 years ago (gun is from 1968).

It would be nice if I removed the screws and the blocks just popped off and left a clean barrel but that probably won't happen.

What's the best method, a little heat? What the chance the blue underneath will remain intact?

Thanks for the help.

Rob

Blue underneath should be fine unless removed prior. Most epoxies soften at around 300+ degrees F. So a bit of propane torch may aid in removal.

If you can get the screws out, a tap with a hammer should break the bond of the epoxy. Most epoxies are really brittle.

Ten seconds or so with a propane torch will do it.

As said before, heat will do it. Be careful not to get it too hot, I had a contender barrel that I did this to, and the epoxy or glue was a bit different than I had encountered before. All of a sudden it sputtered and seemed to have a chemical reaction, and it took off most of the bluing where it was.

I've had better luck on epoxy sometimes by taking a maple block with a sharp corner, and scraping it off. It won't affect the blue, but the epoxy will shear off. Clean up with MEK, and buff out and it's as good as new.

dave

Actually, if you have a freezer that gets good and cold, that is often the best way. I believe a lot of target shooters with glued in stocks do that. You might want to try it first. Just let it freeze good and cold then whack the mounts with something non-marring.

I agree with the maple. If I happen to get a spot of glass bedding somewhere there is no release, I take a piece of hard wood, make sure it has a good sharp edge, and then scrape it. It usually works with no mark. To get the last trace, a soft rag or some bronze wool with Flitz will usually take it off with no marks.

Heat them softly and give them a good rap. I had a set of rings that were epoxied to a scope that I gently pried off. The epoxy stuck to the coarser of the two finishes.

For whatever reason the guy epoxied a $800 scope to a set of $30 rings on a $2500 rifle.

If you get the screws out use a brass drift to tap up on the underside of the dove tail and it will pop off.

You can go after the residue that remains with MEK or acetone. Use ventilation outside though.

I build my own golf clubs. Use a heat gun or blow dryer. It'll turn into a powdery consistency which can be very easily scraped off & cleaned. If you use a propane torch, some of the epoxy can actually discolor and stain the underlying metal requiring more judicious scraping with a scalpal, etc.

It's done and done well. I used a soldering iron to heat the head of each screw, this softened the epoxy enough to remove the screws. After the screws were removed the bases just lifted off by hand and no damage to the blue. I'll have to get a bottoming tap to clean the holes out, there was epoxy on the threads and down the holes.

BTW, the Weaver bases were correct but the rear base was about .060" high (or the front was low)is this common on these Rugers?

heat gun ... the base is alum .. get it too hot to touch, let it cool, do that twice ..

unscrew it, and it should pop off --

heat and a brass brush will work...

DO NOT make it smoke .. the fumes aren't really good for you

quote:

BTW, the Weaver bases were correct but the rear base was about .060" high (or the front was low)is this common on these Rugers?

From some old notes from the gunshop days shows a #47 for the front and a #68 for the back. Scoped gun for customer but note didnt say what the height of the bases may be...hope that helps!

Yep, that's what was on there, a 47 & a 68. Going to take some measuring to find out where the trouble lies.

I have ran into a few Weaver bases that were manufactured incorrectly. Wrong radius (by a mile or so) and wrong hole spacing most usually.