and not ruining the barrel.

Picked up a Rem. P-17 that had the stock "sporterized" so
I just want to save the action for something big in the future.

I hear that the barrels are worth some money in good condition, which this one is, so I want to pull it without altering it.

The breech has a nice taper to it, are inserts for barrel wrenchs made for the taper or is there another method?


Thanks, Rob

Is it 2 grove or 4 grove?

Trick question?
Actually has 5 groove rifling, it's an early Remington, s/n 906XX.

I imagine you're asking to assess the value of the barrel? I can't imagine it would make a difference about removal..


Thanks, Rob

I think that Jeffeosso had a post on this and how to do it...might do a search of his posts in the Gunsmithing section. Had something to do with cutting the barrel off at the chamber area and making a couple of other cuts...sorry, that is all I can remember. As for as the how many grooves question, I think that you might be able to sell a good barrel to recoup some of the costs involved in your project. That MIGHT make a difference if you cut it, or try a less destructive method. Just my .03 worth..adjusted for inflation, you know!

I've read about those methods, turning the chamber area so the side are parallel and making a relief cut. I'm sure they work but the barrel is lost and I'd like to sell this one and recoup some of the money.


Thanks, Rob

of interest, from another post:

MY copy of Hatcher says the 1917 has a .300" bore and .005" grooves, which corresponds to a groove diameter of .310", although you cannot easily measure it because it is five-groove Enfield plan rifling . He points out that this is a tighter barrel than a Springfield because the Enfield plan rifling has lands as wide as the grooves, while the Springfield lands are only 1/4 as wide.

https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9411043/m/474100596

It may not come off any other way. My friend just bent a LaBounty action wrench trying to undo a barrel off my Remington Model 30S (same action). Those LaBounty wrenches are massive; until this I did not think it possible to bend one.

You might try freezing it?

harry,
he BENT that giant wrench? i didn't think you and I together laying into one could bend it, and he's 1/2 our size...

BENT IT??!?!?!

cut off tool and 10 mins in the lathe, it'll turn off by hand!!!! not worth risking the action imho

OK, but how did he hold the barrel in the vise? Did he make a tapered insert?

He bent the bail, not the bar. But the bail is hell for stout, too. Rob, he has the heavy-duty Brownell's barrel vise with the variuos tapered steel inserts. Amazing how well rosin holds; there was not a mark on the barrel even after that.

Jeff, he had to relieve mine finally.

Thanks tigger, I'll have to get a tapered insert.

Rob

ahhh, okay...

rail is 1/4" "u shaped saddle"...

i don't think i could bend that on a bet

jeffe

quote:

Originally posted by Recoil Rob:
Thanks tigger, I'll have to get a tapered insert.

Rob

Good luck and be sure the cap screws are really really tight on the vise!

Jeff, I'm sure Tom had some mechanical advantage somewhere on the bar. Like a 4 foot cheater!

quote:

Originally posted by Recoil Rob:
Trick question?
Actually has 5 groove rifling, it's an early Remington, s/n 906XX.

I imagine you're asking to assess the value of the barrel? I can't imagine it would make a difference about removal..


Thanks, Rob

All the M1917's had 5 groove barrels. Are you sure you're not thinking of the '03 Springfield Doug?

Actually most of them did have 5 groove LH 1-10 twist but according to Hatcher (p.16) 61,250 were rebarreled by Hi-Standard with 4 groove RH twist and 81,571 were rebarreled by Johnson Automatics with 2 groove.

You might want to read Willis Fowlers book "advanced Rebarreling of the Sporting Rifle". He dedicates several pages to the P-14 and P-17 actions
Longshot

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
ahhh, okay...

rail is 1/4" "u shaped saddle"...

i don't think i could bend that on a bet

jeffe

Jeffe,
A sufficiently determined old oilfield roughneck can bend or break anything an engineer can dream up, up to and including 3" diameter ball bearing balls. Incidentally, The barrel from that action is twisted approximately 20 degrees as well.

H'cat,
heh, i can unravel a 3" ball bearing!!
i want to see that barrel!!

LOL
jeffe

Been a while, and not to resurrect a thread but...

Kroil is wonderful stuff if you give it time. Since my original post 6 months ago the 1917 barreled action has been standing up in a corner of my workbench. Every few weeks or so when I would notice it I'd put a few drops of Kroil on the barrel/receiver seam. Did it a couple of times from the chamber side also.

Last night was barrel pulling night, first was a Swedish Mauser I only Kroiled once or twice. Had to use the cheater bar and dead blow for two taps but it came off.

Next was 1931 Mexican Mauser, Kroiled once, probably didn't make a difference but it came off with the cheater alone and a little pressure.

I was all psyched up for the 1917, well rosined all surfaces, tightened the barrel vise (w/tapered insert), tightend the action wrench.

As I was leaning down to pick up the cheater I leaned one hand on the action wrench handle. It moved right away, I almost fell, and she spun right off.

Kroil & time.

quote:

Actually has 5 groove rifling,

These barrels were made for the P-14 Enfields and are nominally .311" groove. They were made for the original British contract and were left over when Britain cancelled the contract, nearly bankrupting the already financially stricken Remington company. The US government bailed them out when it was determined that the P-14 could be modified to accomodate the .30 Govt '06 cartridge by changing the boltface and magazine box. It was determined that the .311" groove barrels would meet minimum standards for accuracy when the '06 .308" bullet was fired in the .311" bore. I don't know if you will be able to get a good price for this barrel regardless of condition. Good luck!

I have always used the relief cut method on 17's and 14's but will try Recoil Rob's Kroil treatment next time. Good tip.
Larkin

From what I unerstand, that relief cut was only necessary on the Eddystone 1917s.
Paul B.

its not a bad idea for any enfield that's a bit tight... the reason this doesn't work for milsurp mausers is that they are torqued on the interal torque shoulder, called a C ring or H ring ... and NOT on the barrel shoulder