A stockmaker told me once to always use tung oil on gunstocks rather than linseed because linseed is hydroscopic (attracts water) and tung oil is hydrophobic (water repellent.) Not sure I've heard that anywhere else...who knows?

AC

I'm not a chemist so can't say if what the guy told you was true or not but, I do know that Linseed Oil is not water-proof but is water- repellant, just like most any other oil. If it was really hydroscopic I can't imagine that the military would have used it for centuries. The difference with tung oil is that it dries much faster and harder than linseed and this may give the effect of being more waterproof. Tung oil gives a finish more like a buildup of varnish whereas linseed's finish is more "in" the wood than on it.

All of this is academic in the 21st Century since there are so many modern stock finishes available, most of them more durable and easier to apply than either linseed or tung oil.

I think the only acceptable use for linseed or tung oil today is for a military stock or re-finishing an old stock that has an oil finish. JMHO

Ray

quote:

Originally posted by Cheechako:
All of this is academic in the 21st Century since there are so many modern stock finishes available, most of them more durable and easier to apply than either linseed or tung oil.

I think the only acceptable use for linseed or tung oil today is for a military stock or re-finishing an old stock that has an oil finish. JMHO
Ray

Ray,

I agree. I just happened to see the thread about linseed oil and remembered the statement. I have both on my bench but for touch up of old finishes. Custom Pro Oil, Permalyn, and another I've forgotten the name of have worked well for me, but my favorite is DemBart Checkering Oil.

BTW, are you lost? I thought cheechakos were found in the northwest US aka Alaska!?

Andy,
I have switched to using, depending on my mood, vilvit oil or procustom gun oil... and a new (?) product from minwax.. "sanding sealer"...

2 coats of sanding sealer, 2 coats of finish, generally needs a 3third for "grace"

jeffe

Try Teak oil . It produces a beautiful finish and is durable.Available from Daly's in Seattle.

I'm in process of finishing a plain jane walnut gunstock with watco teak oil and the stock looks nice. Not sure how it will hold up, but time will tell. The next steps are rubbing in procustom oil finish for final hard coat and polish with rottenstone.

I like linseed for tool handles.

Zimbabwe: I've use teak oil, or in this case from Daly's it is called "Sea-Fin" This product contains Linseed oil, tung and castor oil as well as Urethane and thinners. It's about the best I'e ever used (for over 20 yrs now) I start with the "Ship and Shore " sealer. Once a year a few drops spread out and then wiped off wil keep the finish looking great year after year. On the other hand, I frequenly use linseed oil...time consuming, but can't be beat

quote:

BTW, are you lost? I thought cheechakos were found in the northwest US aka Alaska!?

Andy

You're right. I ended up in AZ by way of NM, 30 years in Alaska, back to NM, and then here.

Ray

I got a 5 gallon cans of SeaFin.
It is Tung oil with some extra polymers added.
http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID5138286P4439834-SeaFin-M...oducts/Teak-Oil.aspx

In the end I decided that the odor is too much.
I now like water based finishes to get the odor level down fast.

A friend of mine proudly showed me his gunsmithing accomplishments. WHen I would shoulder the rifles, I could smell the stink of recently applied organic solvent based finish. I didn't have the heart to tell him his work stinks.