Before the advent of using a torque wrench on action screws, it was done by feel. Many still do. Maybe I'm a dinosaur but I've always thought it was a high tech solution to a low tech task.
I'm sure someone will say I'm wrong but I don't see how a properly bedded rifle will shoot different if the screws are torqued 10% one way or the other. You obviously don't want them loose or farmer tight.
Mark Pursell
Posts: 545 | Location: Liberty, MO | Registered: 21 January 2003
I only use torque wrenches on rings, bases, compensators, etc.
Unbedded guns I go hand tight using the Allen key like a screwdriver. I then turn it over so that the long portion of the key is in hand and give a quarter turn more (I have compared it to a torque wrench and it seems to get me 30-35in-lbs). Pillar bedded guns have a pretty positive stop when tightened (about 45in-lbs in my testing) and I have never seen any improvement in precision, accuracy, or repeatability by tightening them to 65in-lbs as some prescribe.
I do too but I don't use them for action screws. I also have a variable torque wrench in addition to the one you have (I find 65in-lbs to be excessive for most applications). I've just not found it to be necessary. With properly bedded guns I have even taken the tang screw out, only tightened the front receiver ring screw, and got much less effect than what I expected.