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Is it possible to torque the action screws properly (or "almost" properly)to my Savage M12 LPV using only an allen key and tightening by feel?? The gun has a laminated stock and is pillar and action is glass-bedded. Whatdaya think? | ||
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Before the advent of using a torque wrench on action screws, it was done by feel. Many still do. Maybe I'm a dinosaur but I've always thought it was a high tech solution to a low tech task. I'm sure someone will say I'm wrong but I don't see how a properly bedded rifle will shoot different if the screws are torqued 10% one way or the other. You obviously don't want them loose or farmer tight. Mark Pursell | |||
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Another dinosaur here. It's unlikely you could over-tighten a pillar-bedded rifle. | |||
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Never used a torque wrench. My general rule of thumb is nice and snug, and then a little bit more. | |||
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So you are NOT cranking down on the allen wrench that hard?? | |||
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I only use torque wrenches on rings, bases, compensators, etc. Unbedded guns I go hand tight using the Allen key like a screwdriver. I then turn it over so that the long portion of the key is in hand and give a quarter turn more (I have compared it to a torque wrench and it seems to get me 30-35in-lbs). Pillar bedded guns have a pretty positive stop when tightened (about 45in-lbs in my testing) and I have never seen any improvement in precision, accuracy, or repeatability by tightening them to 65in-lbs as some prescribe. | |||
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About 1:20 in http://youtu.be/B79jGHn4Rig "A long life, and the good sense to live it." ...Quintis Arrius 375H&H,404J,416DAK,458AFR,416RIG,450RIG,505GIB Avatar: Gregory Peck & Susan Hayward in Africa NRA member | |||
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I do too but I don't use them for action screws. I also have a variable torque wrench in addition to the one you have (I find 65in-lbs to be excessive for most applications). I've just not found it to be necessary. With properly bedded guns I have even taken the tang screw out, only tightened the front receiver ring screw, and got much less effect than what I expected. | |||
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