I'd like to bed my rifle and I've read several "how to" websites, but one thing in particular is bothering me: How to keep epoxy from getting into the action screw threads.

Everything I've read says to snug up the action screws while the epoxy cures. Won't tightening the screws carry the epoxy in to the threads and glue the screws into the action holes? Even if everything is covered with release agent, getting epoxy in to the threads seems like a BAD idea. Am I missing something?

fill the threads with Johnson Paste Wax, it is a great release agent too.

I use the screws only as a guide. I use rubber tubing to hold the action inplace. Then I remove the screws while the epoxy is still not fully cured. As AZ said Paste wax the threads.

Do yourself a favor and get a set of Inletting Guide Screws from Brownells. Then, as Ramrod340 suggests, use rubber tubing(surgical tubing) to hold the action in place. It's a good idea to remove the screw before the epoxy has cured.

One of the problems I've had with using the front guard screw is that some epoxy may be forced into the guard screw hole in the receiver and prevent the screw from screwing in all the way. The hardened epoxy is also a PITA to get out.

I agree with Mauser98. If possible use guide screws. For the Mauser you might as well buy them from Bownells. For the 700 and 70 I simply bought a couple of long bolts and cut the heads off.

If you happen to have a bag of shot laying around its another good way to secure the action while the epoxy cures. Just make sure you use a means to prevent overflow from sticking to the cloth.

Brownell's sells a modeling clay that is also very helpful in getting a clean, professional bed job. Use it to fill voids or areas on the underside or sides of your action that might interfere with a clean extraction after the bedding compound has dried. For the, the biggest challenge always seems to be getting the action perfectly level and square. What I have finally settled on is pillar bedding the action first. With the pillars as a solid and accurate reference and anchor point, you can daub in as much bedding compound into the action mortise of the stock as you require and then just such the action down onto the pillars with the action screws. I usually fill the screw holes with clay so no bedding compound gets in there and then when the screws are tightened into the receiver, they drive the clay out. Of course, if your front action screw is blind, that won't work.

Bottom line: there is a learning curve of trial and error. Best thing is to read up, settle on a technique and make sure you have all the raw materials you will need [release agent, plubers tape to mask off areas, clay, surgical tubing, a good vice or other solid device to secure the stock into, exacto knife, etc.]


Good luck.


Jordan

I normally use modeling clay, but just tried plastic drink straws and that works too.

For the modeling clay, put the screw in and just put a layer of clay in the threads. When you tighten it down it keeps the epoxy out fine.

With the drink straws, I clip a little piece off, slip it over the screw, and when its tightened down the straw pushes against the action to keep the epoxy out, then just compresses between the escucheon and the action.

Use guide screws only, if you must force the action into the stock then surgical tubing on the rear ring is the way to go....

Best to force the barreled action down to pre set stops and let it settle on its own...

tightening up screws normally puts stresses on the barreled action and you lose accuracy..and you always run the risk of a stuck screw and thats a pain..

i do it in two pours... first pour is the barrel(and barrel lug if you have one) and rear tang, with the front screw holding the action in...

second pour gets the front, and you need tubing or leather thongs...

if you MUST do the screws at the same time, then you need to start early on a saturday, turning the screws in and out 1/2 a turn every 20 mins for 4-6 hours, then remove the screws

jeffe

I do it on one application. My inletting between the action screws is done to keep the stock level. I do not hog out wood so that the stock is hanging in the air. The area that gets bedding is at the front screw and at the rear tang. I put the bottom metal in with everything covered well with carnuba floor wax. I stick the action screws right into the wax so they are well covered. I insert them into the bottom metal and tape them in place. I put the stock in my vice in an upright fashion and so I can get at the screws with a screw driver. I have the barreled action coated with release agent. I put the acraglass in and keep it back from the protruding screws but put plenty in so it will fill the voids. I set the action down onto the screws, remove the tape and tighten it slowly a bit on the front and a bit on the back. Don't over tighten once it is snug, but make sure he barrel is midway on the forearm top flats.