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98 large ring into small ring stock
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Any tips, tricks, or potential gotchas? It looks like nothing more than some whittling and a little bedding to make it work.
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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Just be sure you have enough thickness in the ring area of your stock to fit the large rind, as most do not.
 
Posts: 249 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 05 October 2011Reply With Quote
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Best to specify what you have; saying; "large ring/small ring" doesn't really mean anything,...Just last week I tried to explain to a lady at Boyds that a Yugo 24 was not a Small ring; but she insisted because it had the short guard screw spacing.
We all need to specify what model it is, and further, what the guard screw spacing, is. In this case, your stock.
Just saying "small ring", means nothing.
Small ring 98? 96? 95? 94? 93? 91? Mex 36? 33-40? 33? And more.....
And for large ring: Kurz, Intermediate, standard, Mag. Guard screw spacing is vital..
Stocks I have in any small ring model, are made from the same basic patterns as a large ring, so do have enough wood to inlet a large ring receiver.
 
Posts: 17495 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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It has “96/38” written on the butt end. I didn’t measure hole spacing, but it’s just shy of the FN barreled action on my bench. Plenty of meat in the ring area as it’s rough cut off a duplicator. Smokin deal I couldn’t pass up, and I don’t want or need to go buy a small ring action for it when I have a few spare standard length 98s laying around.
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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Ok, that's very good information and very important. You have a stock for a Swede 96/38. Very different from a 98 and it is not just a matter of opening up for the larger receiver ring. It will not be the same guard hole spacing as a 98; 7 5/8s vs 7 7/8ths. And your mag box opening will be about 3 3/16ths; shorter than a 98. So, it will be more work than just the ring diameter. Your recoil lug will not be in the right place, or you move the rear tang back .2 inches, which may or may not work in the stock you have.
Again, talking about small rings or large rings, tells us nothing, and this is a good example.
 
Posts: 17495 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Thanks dpcd, my initial post was admittedly shy on detail, but it was late at night...

Yeah, most of what you describe is what I meant by "some whittling and a little bedding". Just eyeballing it my first thought was to leave the rear hole in its place to preserve the grip contour, and rat tail file the front hole further forward, and maybe add a bedded crossbolt for the recoil lug.

Inletting for the larger ring and longer mag box kinda goes without saying.

Just wondered if there might be any other subtleties I am missing from my initial assessment of what's needed to make it fit.
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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That is what I would do; leave the rear hole in place and move erecting forward. You are on the right track.
 
Posts: 17495 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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I was in Yonkers, NY At the Homefield Deli, minding my own business when a man walked in and ask if there was anyone in the deli that could fix his gun, I said nothing. About that time it got quite, there were 5 people pointing at me.

He had a small ring Mauser with a large shank barrel that someone had attempted to take apart, and then there was the bolt. I warned him about the trigger, when cocked the rifle would fire if the trigger was pushed forward.

F. Guffey correct error.
 
Posts: 453 | Location: Dallas, Texas | Registered: 16 February 2010Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by F. Guffey:
I was in Yonkers, NY At the Homefield Deli, minding my own business when a man walked in and ask if there was anyone in the deli that could fix his gun, I said nothing. About that time it got quite, there were 5 people pointing at me.

He had a Large ring Mauser with a small shank barrel that someone had attempted to take apart, and then there was the bolt. I warned him about the trigger, when cocked the rifle would fire if the trigger was pushed forward.

F. Guffey


Interesting story.

You know, my first thought instead of coming here was to go to a sandwich shop with my rifle and ask random strangers.

Thankfully dpcd chimed in so I don't have to now.
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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a 96/38 is neither a mauser nor s 98.
here's a link to more data
http://forums.accuratereloadin...=971105007#971105007

The swede is based on the 1896 model, and the 38 wasn't made by mauser


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40515 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
interesting story. You know my first thought instead of coming here was to go to a sandwich shop with my rifle and ask random strangers.


No, I did not know your first thought, or your second one or third. It was Saturday, I was thinking about going to the trotter track and then finish up in the parking lot/Flea Market. The man with the Mauser told me he was going to a Flea Market that was just North of Boston, that was when he told me the Mauser was worthless unless he found someone that could help assemble it. I did not charge him for the help.

And then he asked me if I had any interest in a 200-pound vise or old 22 rifles, and then he told me he had a friend that had an old Burnside rifle; and I purchased the rifle and the vise.

It was not a sandwich shop; it was a deli called Homefield. Back in the days of Babe Ruth the deli must have had something to do with Baseball.

F. Guffey
 
Posts: 453 | Location: Dallas, Texas | Registered: 16 February 2010Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by F. Guffey:
I was in Yonkers, NY At the Homefield Deli, minding my own business when a man walked in and ask if there was anyone in the deli that could fix his gun, I said nothing. About that time it got quite, there were 5 people pointing at me.

He had a Large ring Mauser with a small shank barrel that someone had attempted to take apart, and then there was the bolt. I warned him about the trigger, when cocked the rifle would fire if the trigger was pushed forward.

F. Guffey


this has what all to do with the thread? we call this "humble bragging" and it's twice as lame as just plain old bragging


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40515 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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HAR! Gotta be some more to that story...Why on earth wuld you walk into a Deli to have a gun fixed?
 
Posts: 3699 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
HAR! Gotta be some more to that story...Why on earth would you walk into a Deli to have a gun fixed?


I was having breakfast. At the time I did not know the man with the rifle but there were enough customers in the deli that knew me. No one found fault with me for helping.

F. Guffey
 
Posts: 453 | Location: Dallas, Texas | Registered: 16 February 2010Reply With Quote
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Well, I've never gone into a deli for anything other than a sandwich, so pardon me...

Back to the topic - Jeffosso, I know there are a lot of different models and manufacturers of Mauser designed rifles, I was just commenting on how this particular one was marked. And while I appreciate the link, I don't think really makes a difference. But on that topic, aren't the 96 and 38 basically small ring Mauser designs?

Anyway, the stock appeared to be inlet for something very "Mauser-like", (front screw into the recoil lug, distinctive "ears" just forward of the rear tang) so at the excellent price I took a chance. Comparing it to a 98 it appears that with a little bit of work it can be adapted.
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by F. Guffey:
quote:
interesting story. You know my first thought instead of coming here was to go to a sandwich shop with my rifle and ask random strangers.


No, I did not know your first thought, or your second one or third. It was Saturday, I was thinking about going to the trotter track and then finish up in the parking lot/Flea Market. The man with the Mauser told me he was going to a Flea Market that was just North of Boston, that was when he told me the Mauser was worthless unless he found someone that could help assemble it. I did not charge him for the help.

And then he asked me if I had any interest in a 200-pound vise or old 22 rifles, and then he told me he had a friend that had an old Burnside rifle; and I purchased the rifle and the vise.

It was not a sandwich shop; it was a deli called Homefield. Back in the days of Babe Ruth the deli must have had something to do with Baseball.

F. Guffey


The Palmer Rd. Deli in Yonkers had a "gunshop" in the back. Guy had an FFL and did business there. Must be a thing.
 
Posts: 1716 | Location: East Coast | Registered: 06 January 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Recoil Rob:
The Palmer Rd. Deli in Yonkers had a "gunshop" in the back. Guy had an FFL and did business there. Must be a thing.


That explains things a bit better, thanks.
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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Wow, that took a turn; not sure which way though...
As for the Swedish Mausers; indeed, they are Mausers; Anything that follows the Mauser patents that closely, is a Mauser. Doesn't have to have been made at the Oberndorf Factory, to be a Mauser. Design, even if not, made.
BTW, a Mauser cannot be fired when the trigger is pushed forward, if the trigger guard is in place.
 
Posts: 17495 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
Wow, that took a turn; not sure which way though...
As for the Swedish Mausers; indeed, they are Mausers; Anything that follows the Mauser patents that closely, is a Mauser. Doesn't have to have been made at the Oberndorf Factory, to be a Mauser. Design, even if not, made.
BTW, a Mauser cannot be fired when the trigger is pushed forward, if the trigger guard is in place.


For sure Babe Ruth just threw a curve ball Big Grin
 
Posts: 3952 | Location: Rolleston, Christchurch, New Zealand | Registered: 03 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Maybe a spit ball.
Here is a Swede 96 Mauser, made at Oberndorf. Is this a Mauser?
Answer: Yes, and so are the identical pieces made at Carl Gustaff and Husqvarna.
 
Posts: 17495 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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the 96 is a mauser design, the 38 is a husky improvement ...

no, a 96 mauser is not basically a small ring mauser (inferred small ring 98), it'd shorter aol and screw length..


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40515 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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To infer that any small ring Mauser automatically means small ring 98, is just a misdirected or misinformed conclusion. Of course, both have 1.3 rings, meaning, small. And of course, a 98 and 96 are totally different.
Most people I know, mean the 93/4/6 series when they say small ring Mauser. I don't even use the term because it is, obviously, confusing to many, and rightly so; it really describes nothing.
A Swede 38 is exactly the same as a 94/96, with a turned down bole handle. No improvements or action changes. (just a short barrel) Cone up and I'll show you some Mausers.
 
Posts: 17495 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Jeffeosso, your distinctions may be interesting for Mauser aficionados and collectors, but the location of the manufacturer is irrelevant when it comes to questions of metal fitting in wood.
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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To the OP's original concern. Sell your 96/38 Swede stock here or online like e---.
Look for a small ring 98 Mauser stock like the Kar98 to use. They sell fairly cheap and all dimensions are the same as a large ring 98 except for the ring.
Take it slow when reomving wood at the ring. You only need to take .055 inches of material away, less than 1/16".


Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
 
Posts: 5345 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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At the start of this I wrote a prediction on a piece of paper and sealed it in an envelope. That prediction read "somebody will advise you to sell it and get one that fits." Maybe I should open a magic show in Vegas?

Anyway:
1.) I'm not going to find one in English walnut for what I paid for this.
2.) If I'm going to sell it for a better fit why not just get one already inlet for a standard large ring 98? Why look for another small ring stock?
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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That's funny.
You know what to do; make it happen; post a picture of the finished rifle. I'm sure it will be fine.
 
Posts: 17495 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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It just hit me that years ago I built a 94 Swede for my nephew who was about 12 at the time. Don't remember the LOP, but I sized it for youth, and it was a pretty plain piece of wood.

My skills have improved a little since then, this wood's a bit nicer, and he's all grown up now. I might just ask him if he's interested in a re-stock before I go making another 98 for myself that I don't need...
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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So I'm in the middle of doing this now, sticking a large ring 98 into a 1910 Mexican stock where it doesn't belong. The stock basically fell into my lap for free and I've had this barreled action for awhile and figured "why not." Maybe a mistake, maybe not, we'll see... only one way to find out right? Maybe my boy will want to shoot a deer with it.

Amberg 1916 M98 now with a 24" .308 barrel (attached by a friend who also drilled and tapped for scope bases), 1909 style bottom metal (parker hale?) with a Wisner floorplate, Wisner 2-pos safety, Timney trigger, and as you see I think it'll be wearing a Z3 in Talley rings. I filed down the charger hump and polished what you see, and fitted up the rest of the pieces and smoothed up the action to make it feed. It functions with dummy rounds as you see it. "Just" needs a new bolt handle, which I probably should have had done sooner but oh well, its one of the last things to fit in the stock anyways. Whole lotta shaping left to do on the trigger guard too.

Don't know if the wood is claro or bastogne walnut but its fun. I chose to keep the front screw in place and thus had to move the rear takedown screw hole back a bit, and patch in four pieces to fill gaps. Used wood from the fore-end tip cutoff for that, which usually works pretty well but had mixed results here. Probably going to redo the one in front of the bolt handle. I fitted a Pachmayr 1" red pad, lop 14 1/2". Also added that ebony tip. Tiny lil blonde knot showed up, which is annoying but nothing a lil dye can't fix. The original stock shaping was not really my style- I've done a lot of reworking with the grip area and added the Fisher cap. The comb flutes were more like comb bowls extending down into the grip and I'm still trying to work them in.



Nothing too crazy, just a rifle we can tag some whitetails with.



"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
 
Posts: 776 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 05 September 2006Reply With Quote
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Damn, sure wish a stick like that would fall into my lap. Thats a fine looking piece of wood, well worth the effort.



AK-47
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Posts: 10192 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Very nice. Put some water on it and take another picture so we can see the figure.
 
Posts: 17495 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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GAG classic stock?


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40515 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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montea6b

I hadn't mentioned that quote before and was not a fan of it. However, most of those 'sell it get this' posts were for complete firearms not about putting a 98 large ring footprint into a 96 Swede footprint stock.

Back to your original concern about it being easy. That depends on your skill level and so does putting the LR98 into a small ring 98 stock with the same exact footprint except for the ring.

Maybe you're right about the Swede stock and the ease of completion. Love to see your results. I will be the first to apologize if you end up with a nice job.
Be well.

CB


Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
 
Posts: 5345 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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Nice woodgrain Evan! That will look nice finished. How close is the wood to metal fit on the top side?


quote:
Originally posted by Evan K.:
So I'm in the middle of doing this now, sticking a large ring 98 into a 1910 Mexican stock where it doesn't belong. The stock basically fell into my lap for free and I've had this barreled action for awhile and figured "why not." Maybe a mistake, maybe not, we'll see... only one way to find out right? Maybe my boy will want to shoot a deer with it.

Amberg 1916 M98 now with a 24" .308 barrel (attached by a friend who also drilled and tapped for scope bases), 1909 style bottom metal (parker hale?) with a Wisner floorplate, Wisner 2-pos safety, Timney trigger, and as you see I think it'll be wearing a Z3 in Talley rings. I filed down the charger hump and polished what you see, and fitted up the rest of the pieces and smoothed up the action to make it feed. It functions with dummy rounds as you see it. "Just" needs a new bolt handle, which I probably should have had done sooner but oh well, its one of the last things to fit in the stock anyways. Whole lotta shaping left to do on the trigger guard too.

Don't know if the wood is claro or bastogne walnut but its fun. I chose to keep the front screw in place and thus had to move the rear takedown screw hole back a bit, and patch in four pieces to fill gaps. Used wood from the fore-end tip cutoff for that, which usually works pretty well but had mixed results here. Probably going to redo the one in front of the bolt handle. I fitted a Pachmayr 1" red pad, lop 14 1/2". Also added that ebony tip. Tiny lil blonde knot showed up, which is annoying but nothing a lil dye can't fix. The original stock shaping was not really my style- I've done a lot of reworking with the grip area and added the Fisher cap. The comb flutes were more like comb bowls extending down into the grip and I'm still trying to work them in.



Nothing too crazy, just a rifle we can tag some whitetails with.



Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
 
Posts: 5345 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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No apology necessary Custombolt, just poking a little fun at your expense! I'm not a pro, only done about a half dozen semi-inlets and one from a blank, but I'm comfortable with being able to do this. I will post a photo sometime when I get around to finding a photo hosting site. It isn't as nice as Evan's, has a few flaws and wasn't free, but $15 for a stick of English walnut was just too good to pass up.
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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Use IMGUR; it's free and easy to use. Found.
Now, dampen the stock so I can see the figure because it looks very nice.
 
Posts: 17495 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Here's my $15 dollar stock. Small knot by the trigger and on the cheekpiece, but a bit of figure in the butt and nice straight grain in the forend.

And thanks dpcd, I was just getting signed up with Flikr as you were typing your recommendation...


 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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$15 well spent!

I think mine may have been a GAG stock, yes. Inletting was poor- big gaps along both top tang and bottom metal. Required some dirty work to fix. Worth it? We'll see.





"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
 
Posts: 776 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 05 September 2006Reply With Quote
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