Am in need of some adult supervision.

Got involved in a project removing a lot of (small) torx socket screws. In addition to rust there appears to be a dab of blue loctite on the threads.I've stripped out some of the sockets. These are flat head variety seated flush so I can't grind a slot. I've involved a lot of penetrating oil to hopefully lessen the number of stripped out sockets as we proceed.

Can anybody recommend an 'easy out' tool/device for the ones that are hopelessly stripped out? I don't have a drill press and it might be outside my skill set to drill and tap into this small of a screw head to begin with.

If that's blue loctite it will soften at about 400F .That would be a start.

Try putting just the Torx bit into the screw head and give it a sharp rap with a hammer. This often re-compresses stretched threads and makes them turn out easily. Using an impact driver works as well. There are several types of easy outs around these days. Interesting one sold at big box stores I believe that is especially suited to turning out stripped screw heads.

https://www.buyspeedout.com/ii...08-a085-86d564682feb

quote:

Originally posted by Matt Norman:
Am in need of some adult supervision.

Got involved in a project removing a lot of (small) torx socket screws. In addition to rust there appears to be a dab of blue loctite on the threads.I've stripped out some of the sockets. These are flat head variety seated flush so I can't grind a slot. I've involved a lot of penetrating oil to hopefully lessen the number of stripped out sockets as we proceed.

Can anybody recommend an 'easy out' tool/device for the ones that are hopelessly stripped out? I don't have a drill press and it might be outside my skill set to drill and tap into this small of a screw head to begin with.

This is what gunsmiths are for. Mine has fixed this problem twice...no fuss, no worry, and not much money.

Easy Out- World's most misnamed tool.

M

Are these the "flat head cap screws" with the large flush - fitting cone shaped head and disproportionately small hex or torx sockets?

If so (I'm envisioning the devilish little buggers that Ruger uses on the No.1 scope base / ribs) the majority of the holding power / friction happens at the conical surface on the head. And I've bent Allen wrenches trying to remove these.. I recommend drilling (yes I know you said you didn't have a drill press.. so go to Harbor Freight and get a cheapo bench model). Take a drill the same size as the major thread diameter and drill in just barely until the head comes off on the drill. The threaded portion should come out easily, maybe even with just the fingers..

Buy a few hex inserts of the correct Torx size and marine-tex them into the stripped heads. A little dab will do you and the tips are about $.69 a piece.

quote:

Originally posted by H47:
Are these the "flat head cap screws" with the large flush - fitting cone shaped head and disproportionately small hex or torx sockets?

If so (I'm envisioning the devilish little buggers that Ruger uses on the No.1 scope base / ribs) the majority of the holding power / friction happens at the conical surface on the head. And I've bent Allen wrenches trying to remove these.. I recommend drilling (yes I know you said you didn't have a drill press.. so go to Harbor Freight and get a cheapo bench model). Take a drill the same size as the major thread diameter and drill in just barely until the head comes off on the drill. The threaded portion should come out easily, maybe even with just the fingers..

You are in luck with the flat head variety. As with the Ruger ones, I take a 1/4" pin punch and give the flat a sharp rap with the hammer; it stretches the screw and allows it to loosen. Also, get yourself an inser bit and use it in one of the bit=-type screwdrivers Tap it into the buggered screw first.

Or...drill it out

Jim

I use a propane cooking torch, mines the size of a pencil and shoots a tiny hot flame..I heat the screw and screw it out, works 90% of the time, if not drive a sharp hardened screw in the torx, heat the screw head and keep pressure on the screw driver until the screw gives..

A common mistake is to monkey with the head until you have a hole and no torx, that complicates removal and about all you can do is drill it out..

For most folks the best and cheapest alternative is a gunsmith.

quote:

A good job is sometimes just a series of expertly fixed fark-ups.

Consider that one stolen........kinda describes my methos of......well.......everything!


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What Bobster said but heat it first with a soldering iron...one of the old fashioned kind with the square pointed tips works great or one that puts out a lot of heat quickly and keeps the heat localized on the screw...the heat softens just about ANY type of sealant and sets up a temp differential between the screw threads and the support media, while the hammer does what Bobster stated. The combination should work.

Sometimes heating then quickly cooling with canned sprays, CO2 or ice a few cycles will work if one cycle doesn't.

I've "fixed" screws/bolts etc., from 2-64 to 3" hardened bolts holding crane circles to the deck with similar methods.

Luck

JTEX: you're more than welcome to it. I figured I'd have a lot of company on that one.

Thank you Sir. And welcome to AR, sorry I missed that the first time.


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I'm a welder so I get screws out differently than most

Ted.. I can close my eyes and come up with some interesting images. I know people who use torches and electric but few could be called "Welders." Not hitting at you here by the way. . Would be interested in some descriptions since I'm always trying to learn. My humble shop is co - located in a friend's garage and I've seen things... we'll let's leave it at that.

Seriously though a couple of pro techniques would be useful.

For screws this size a milling machine is the only tool for this job. All other methods will require large amounts of luck.

Luck?

No

I'm an 27 year Journyman injection mold maker.....TiG welding with .030 rod on sub 50 amp with 2x magnification is an everyday chore for me

I would fill the stripped hole and then weld a 4-40 shcs on top with Brutus or 680

The heat breaks the Loctite and the screw comes out very easy

I can EDM or mill or drill out any screw but I always use the weld trick first no matter how big or small the broken screw

Ted would the heat from welding damage the finish? Not fighting just asking. I have been removing screws damage by PHD's. Guys who have 10 years of college but cannot remember righty tighty, lefty loosey.

The head will get orange hot but cool quickly and hardly transfer away from itsef

A TiG torch only puts heat where I want it

Thanks for all the input....I'm trying to listen!

Gunsmith isn't an option here. And yes, they are the screws similar to what Ruger uses on the #1. They are the screws that hold the protective covers in place on the EOTech 512 type sights (My project involves a rehab on over 50 such sights).

Using penetrating oil has helped. I believe the rust is more of an issue than the tiny dab of blue Loktite that they used. I upgraded my torx bit (#10) to some better quality-harden ones that I believe fit better. I'm going to try to incorporate several of the other suggestions here including the careful use of heat.

Thanks!

Ted Its my understanding that a fire wrench removes stuck screws very well.

But leaves a bit to be desired for gun work

Fire wrench?

I think he's talking "torch"....


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Heat (soldering iron or small torch), hitting/tapping bolt/screw, and Kroil.

Then use a SpeedOut bit that fits.

I've had one bolt that wouldn't budge to the combo above and EDM was the final solution, but it was in a cylinder head and not a rifle.

Never saw where you mentioned the size torx you are
using. When you get down to a 8 or 9 you better be sure
you have the right bit. The best I found are snap on magnetic
bits. Don't ever buy their screwdriver type. Some times it
helps to grind the bottom flat.
Snap on also makes stubby easy outs that are the only ones
I will ever use. Holding the torx bit with needle noses and
giving a good rap with the ball peen is a good trick
Drilling for a stubby easy out and using a hand impact driver
works some times.
Using a screw length split point left handed cobalt drill and
having the dead man back it self out always brings a smile
to my face!!!
But as Ted Thorn said first I break out the welding machine.
Down to a 1/4 bolt I use my mig with a jam nut. Just center it
on the deadman and weld away.
Anything smaller and I use the tig.
On the flat heads you are talking about its a piece of cake.
Plenty of room to weld on. Make sure to use jam nuts.
Also for small allens the snap on torx bits work great as
easy outs

I am not a gunsmith, but working as a machinist and toolmaker for many years My preference was to use a left twist split-point cobalt drill bit. Usually grabs the screw and backs it left out. Plenty of expert advise in previous posts. I have used many of the same. They all worked at one time or another. Much of it depends upon how much space you have to work in and what kind of equipment you have. In a bind I even used an electric hand drill with the left twist bits.

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
Fire wrench?

oxygen-acetylene torch AKA fire wrench removes stuck bolts very fast. Normally use for cutting off rusted U bolts Spring shackles muffler clamps and other hard to remove stuff

My dad always referred to a cutting torch as "the hot wrench" if something was stuck beyond belief you got the "hot wrench" and torched off the problem, however I think it wouldn't apply for small work. Our typical use was on farm equipment and trucks.
My dad was full of sayings like that. Anything flammable was "instant boy scout or boy scout in a can".
I remember when I was a kid a friend of my dads stopped by the farm with a new pickup, they were looking it over and talking highly of the new truck. Dad says "four on the floor with a fifth under the seat". I couldn't figure that out until I was old enough to drink liquor.

Sorry for the hijack..

Optics and electronics then use a milling machine. On flat heads pick a end mill or drill that will remove the head but leave a bit of the screw sticking out. Grab whats left with a plier. Eotechs are not cheap.

Torx size is #10

The screws are small; about what you see in scope rings. They have a flat head and are flush to the EOTech protective cover I am trying to remove. There are four per protective cover. Lots of heat is not an option due to the small size and that we are dealing with electronic sights.

I started out with 51 such sight units, 4 screws per unit; over 200 screws to deal with each with varying degrees of rust and a dab of blue locktite from the factory on every screw. Using penetrating oil, sharp raps as many have suggested, good fitting bits....I'm now down to about 20 that I can't get out.

Tonight I try a small amount of controlled heat directed right at the head of the screw (bought a small cigar sized mini-torch). Another sharp rap.

Then we go to plan C. Not sure what that is yet.

I just removed some #10 head torx screws, first try resulted in a twisted torx screwdriver, got out another one, tapped it into the screw and heated the shank with a propane torch. I then tapped the driver with a hammer and out they came.

I've used this Craftsman set for stripped screw heads and it works extremely well, but I also use a drill press and hand turn the chuck.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952154000P

I have used this method on thousands, yes thousands, of stripped Torx head fasteners. Select a torx or hex-head bit one or two sizes larger than the stripped one. I buy these in quantity at garage sales.. Grind the hex or torx tip to a triangular profile with sharp corners. Then, grind the end of the bit flat leaving sharp corners on the tip. Smack this modified bit into the stripped torx screw with a hammer, essentially broaching the bit into the stripped hole a the way to the bottom of the hole. Apply heat if the fastener has been installed with red LocTite. Usually do not need heat if blue LocTite was used. Remove with SLOW, steady torque.

I have some cut off screw drivers, both torx and otherwise..I chuck one up in my drill press and bring it down into the hole, sometimes I drive it in but first I use a torx head. lock it up and heat the screw or the screw driver, dependin on how stuck it is...an keep turn pressure on the driver by twisting the drill bit holder by hand until the red stuff softens, most of the time you can see tiny bubbles before it breaks loose..It always works for me and no heat or blue damage to the gun..

If it didn't work I would break the harden screw out.