The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Glas Bedding an old Remington 700 wood stockGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| Glas Bedding an old Remington 700 wood stock | Login/Join |
| One of Us |
I have owned three 700's from the early 80's and two are still on old Chet Brown fiberglass stocks with floated barrel a 270 and 7 mag. I had a 280 that would not shoot well with the floated barrel but bedded in in the old wood stock and fore end pressure is a tack driver. I have my daughter in laws Rem 270 and cleaned it after sitting up and setting the trigger from 6+ down to 3.5. It now feels mushy with the front screw tightened and there is way too much fore end pressure and it is not just straight under. It did not shoot like it did before. I was going to bed the gun and was wondering what your opinion is to floating the barrel or trying to adjust this fore end problem where the barrel looks like most of the blueing is gone from the pressure pad being so tight. I could bed and float and add pressure back if needed but do not have a lot of time right now. Just curious what your old Remington liked. Bedded or free floated? Thanks, Jim | ||
|
| One of Us |
| |||
|
one of us |
I personally have never seen a Remington 700 that didn’t shoot better with a free-floated barrel. Like you said, you can always add forend pressure back if need be. He’d the action and the first 1” to 1 12” of the barrel. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
|
| one of us |
+1 | |||
|
| One of Us |
I will give it a try floated. It was dead on with my old floated gun till I took it apart. Not sure if it had ever been taken apart and cleaned and needed it but with the extreme fore end pressure causing a mushy screw and crappy pattern vs tack driver. Thanks, Jim | |||
|
| One of Us |
Jim, Whether to bed/float or not is up to you but a tip I learned a few decades ago: make sure the magazine box is seated properly into the action and bottom metal or it will bind when the action screws are tightened creating all sorts of accuracy issues. Zeke | |||
|
one of us |
A simple folded business card with a hole punched for the guard screw, then placed under the action will get the barrel off the pressure pad and save the sanding of the pad. Then, if you want to go back to pressure bedding, you have less work. Merkel 140A- .470NE Beretta Vittoria- 12 Ga. J.P. Sauer & Sohn Type B- 9.3x64mm ArmaLite AR-10A4- 7.62x51mm Franchi Highlander- 12 Ga. Marlin 1894 CB Limited- .41 Magnum Remington 722- .244 Rem. and many, many more. An honest man learns to keep his horse saddled. | |||
|
| one of us |
Well if you free float it in the beginning and it won't shoot then you have to glass bed.. I bed them tight shoot them, if not what I want I go with 3 point bedding and try that, last of all I free float the rifle.. you can take wood out but you can't put it back is my reasoning.. If a rifle won't shoot in one or the other of those three methods, its just a damn stupid gun.. My experience is light whipping barrels like the tight or the 3 point bedding that. std and heavy barrels usually free floating works best. I can pretty well tell what a rifle needs by the shape and location of shots number 1 thru 5..there is a pattern to most groups that works for stock making. ON a old used gun I would work with shims and find out what shoots best then bed the rifle accordingly..that usually works and a ton better than advise since every gun is an inity unto itself.. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
|
| One of Us |
I have still yet to do anything. Gun is old but probably not had 100+ rounds thru it and never been taken apart to clean.. It was a tack driver when I took it apart to clean. I could put my old 270 group over lay and it looked like one big 1" and less with a couple of holes touching on both with 5 rounds from both. Oiled and cleaned it and it went back together mushy and extremely tight on the 4 end ( Yes I tightened in the manner recommended). I shot it and got big ugly three shot pattern that my coffee mug might cover. I think it is the bedding area that is the problem. I have never seen a gun with this much pressure on the fore upon to the sides and even the touching the black fore end piece. Maybe there was a sweet spot after being in the stock for that long and it is not there any more? I have a mushy front screw now and thinking quick 2 point devcon bed might get the job done. AFTER Spray marking the barrel around the front pad area and taking out all the other interferences on the sides leaving just the standard small pad area. Suggestions/Problems: I just do not have time to get to the farm for a while with a new grandbabby on the way. And if Houston does not go underwater with all the rain we are getting this week. Jim | |||
|
One of Us |
The old stock probably groaned and moved a bit when you took it out of "bed" and added the pressure you describe. Great time to glass it square and level I would think to make it comfortable again. "The liberty enjoyed by the people of these states of worshiping Almighty God agreeably to their conscience, is not only among the choicest of their blessings, but also of their rights." ~George Washington - 1789 | |||
|
| One of Us |
LOTSA things can happen with an "old" gun...just the SAME as a "new" gun. I do just about the same things with pretty much ALL my guns....some are over 40 years old and still hold "zero" but that zero can move around a bit now and then unless the stock is a laminated or "plastic" one. All the things that have been mentioned contribute to stocks going south and a few more to boot. I start with opening up the stock/barrel channel about 1/16" a bit more if the wood shows oil or other garbage/damage around the stock screws(pillars solve this quickly) and receiver as if I were going to glass bed...I also either install pillars or a partial/full length bedding block...pillars are cheap compared the the block and do just about the same thing. I also bed steel shims or a steel box around the mag well and make sure there is clearance around it also especially with laminated stocks on hard recoiling calibers. Pillars ALSO give you a solid "metal to metal"(if the trigger guard is metal) contact almost as good as the "three rings of steel" and I guarantee those pillars will hold a receiver in the stock tightly and you can torque down the stock screws and that torque will hold...especially if you do the other simple bedding procedures. Once these steps are complete I shoot it to see if the accuracy is up to par. If I already installed pillars and cleaned things up usually the rifle starts shooting well again and I might not do anything more. A bit of "gapitis" doesn't bother me...accuracy is what I'm looking for and if the rifle gets used in all kinds of weather from wet to dry then depending on how well the stock is sealed the gapitis allows for some movement that doesn't affect POI. In some cases I've installed a set screw up inside the front sling mount if it is a steel type nut and use it to push up against the barrel to see if that will settle things down. Doesn't take much pressure...maybe 2-3#...just to dampen the vibes...sometimes more on a field gun. Doing this is a bit iffy on a hard use field gun with a sling but it works wonders on a benchrest or a truck gun that doesn't get thumped around. I those things don't help much the I bed the receiver and about 2" of barrel, basically all the chamber diameter up to the beginning of the barrel. taper with steel epoxy with "pads" around the rear tang/stock screw and a nice thick chunk as a recoil absorber or bed in a hunk of steel for the recoil lug to bear against. Basically I start with simple/quick things that have been proven "problem solvers" and get complicated if these don't work. The amount of "futzing around" depends on your concept of accuracy and the amount of "mucking about" you want to do...sometimes pillar bedding and opening up the barrel channel a bit is all that is needed. Good Luck   | |||
|
| One of Us |
+2 NRA Patron member | |||
|
| one of us |
I have a heavy barrel Remington 700 that has not shot well with a floated barrel. It was bedded and free-floated at one time and groups went to pot, in two different stocks (one was its original BDL stock and the other was a used 40X stock with pressure point screws). In the end, a synthetic stock with a homemade fore end pressure point saved it. It is an unruly piece, now getting recalibrated for copper hunting rounts. TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
|
| one of us |
I would get a little inletting black and re-inlet the whole shebang and take care of that problem before anything else, the same as I do building a stock. An old stock like that should be dry and cured and be stable..I would bed it tight then if it didn't work out, I would 3 point bed it, if that didn't work then free float it, saves a lot of work in the long run..Lastly I would add a coat of thinned glass to the whole thing, heat it up with a blow dryer set the gun in the glass, snug the barreled action down by hand and snug it with a wrap on the rear ring..and let it set up..That will make for a perfect fit no bubbles and water proof the bedding..If your not handy at such, take it to a good gunsmith..By using these three methods, you take out the guess work and one of them will correct the problem if its in the wood...If not you may need to check out scope and mounts or get a new barrel. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
|
| One of Us |
It sounds like it went back together with something changed. Maybe something is pinching in there towards the back, like a trigger pin/screw, magazine box, foreign object, etc.? Perhaps it had a shim by the front screw that fell out? | |||
|
| One of Us |
Finally got it bedded with the Commercial Devcon. Came out looking good but I did float the barrel. Still had never see a fore end bedding that had taken the blueing off the barrel like this gun had. Course I could be adding it back one day soon if the 270 does not stay well within an inch group.  Curious on how it will shoot. I found that the hardest part of the project was reinstalling the Remington Trigger. Darn those pins were tight to get to place with with the parts in place.  Thanks for all the advice. Interesting how things have changed from the old Accruglass from the early 80's. Devcon is a lot easier to use. Jim The other good news is the Palmetto arms AR 4 I build and finally got around to shooting this weekend shoots well with most of the cheaper 556 55 grain ammo out there. | |||
|
| one of us |
Yes and don't forget where you live, humidity is a stocks worst friend. Marble Falls is on the edge of that and Houston is water logged on a hot dry day..Ithink that area will warp stainless steel.. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
|
| One of Us |
I appreciate everyone help. Never seen a 700 like this. From so much fore end pressure that the Blueing was rubbed off, to having the magazine interfere, not to count that there was heave pressure for the fit on the trigger guard assembly. Hopefully all was fixed or taken out of play. Cannot wait to get up to the farm and show the 270. Thanks, All Jim | |||
|
| One of Us |
That has been my experience as well, on at least 15 Rem 700s NRA Patron member | |||
|
| one of us |
| |||
|
| One of Us |
What year did you get your Chet Brown stocks. I have one of each of his old stocks you had to finish the stocks. I talked with Chet several times back then. John Wooters had recommended Chet back in 83? when he used to write for Peterson's. I thought about doing a rebed on the stocks because of the new and better techniques that we have now. Both have held their 1/2 to 3/4 groups since the original work but There is a little stress that might be taken out with a redo but I have the screws marked and fingernial polished to place and not had any problems other than I know the face. I will find out how the rifle shoots this weekend with all the fore pressure it was shooting under 3/4 same as my gun floated. | |||
|
| one of us |
It was about 84 or 85; I remember I was living in Alaska. In fact, did a lot of those stocks for AK Fish & Game. Used to finish in bondo and paint them in the Ft Richardson auto body paint room with auto paint and flattening agent. I spoke with John Wooters on the phone several times before he died. He may not have shot the planet, but he was one class act. | |||
|
| Administrator |
We have built many rifles on the Remington 700 action. We always bed the action, and the barrel shank, and free float the rest. Worked every time. Never had any problems whatsoever. Remington 700 and Sako actions are my favorite actions to build rifles on. | |||
|
| One of Us |
Thanks to all. The old Remington Shot like a new school girl with the barrel floated. It was holding steady 3/4 inch but it should do better with out a strong gusting SE wind that kept changing directions and speed. Could be the old guy shooting too. Thanks for your time and opinions. I appreciate the time. JimD Chet had me use the old Wrinkle paint on stock and action before doing the camo. Except for having Leopold warranty on one of the scopes,the Rifles look the same less a few dings and chips on the metal. I could rebed both because of the slight tension of the old rebed technique but with the guard screws fingernail polished to place and the screw angle marked the rifles have not changed since I did them in 83?. | |||
|
| One of Us |
Thanks for letting us know how it turned out. I'm glad you got it working the way you want. | |||
|
| one of us |
My Brown Precision stock was a 1983 model. It ended op on a Remington 700 in 270 Win. Got the gun for $180.00 because the stock was cracked. It has shot 3/4" 5 shot groups ever since. I gave it to my daughter for high school graduation. She has been using it on deer and elk since then. The stock cost $98.00 then. Also 12 hours devoted to filling every void and pinhole, sanding away the mold lines Cutting down the stock, putting on a camouflage paint job over wing walk compound,' and gluing on the butt pad. Bedded it with Accra-Gel. Thirty six years, and still going strong. I wish I could have afforded five of those stocks...  | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Glas Bedding an old Remington 700 wood stock
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia