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I picked up this blank about 30 years ago when Bishop was still in buisness. It was a Bastogne second. There was a piece of limb in the right side cheek piece. Anyway I finished it (don't look to close at the shape it was my second stock)and used it for several years then the piece fell out. So I had a 3/16 by 1" gap in the stock. So it set in the closet for 20 years. Then my step son found it and wanted it for his rifle Flaw and all. So I tried epoxy and it looked like $hit. So in talking to Chic he suggested fitting a wood spacer then using a torch to make it look like dark grain. Well he had to talk me through two attempts. That is the darker area on the stock. While I know it is there most people even with me telling them there is a flaw have to have it pointed out. We had John Valicek add a simple checkering pattern. So here is his resulting 25-06. You should see the grin on his face. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | ||
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That is a great looking stock. Would you mind explaining the technique in detail? How did you inlet the plug? How did you gauge how dark to burn the wood to even out color after finishing? The heat didn't soften the glue/epoxy used to set the piece? How didn't you sand through the color? Thanks! Jay Kolbe | |||
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Very nice! ------------------------------- Some Pictures from Namibia Some Pictures from Zimbabwe An Elephant Story | |||
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One of Us |
I think I can see the area you have repaired, but am not sure. You've done a great job. That's the dandiest "second" I've ever seen. The next picture I expect to see from you is of your son's next deer he takes with his 25-06. Chic recently helped me with some stock finishing questions. Great guy, very helpful. | |||
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Jay, Thanks. Your question about the heat is why there was two attempts. First try was a thinner piece and the epoxy got soft. Chic can explain it far better than I can but here goes. The repair is at the top 1.5" just about dead center on the right butt. Second attempt was a deeper plug. Tapered sides and fit, fit, fit. I was lucky when I first built it I had a 1/2" pad. I installed a 1" pad thus giving me some blank material. Second try the plug was deeper and I heated it slower so less heat to the epoxy. I did all the sanding down to the point I was ready to finish before I applied the heat. Then did a little and applied thinner to see how it matched the other natural dark areas. As Chic says easier to make it darker than trying to lighten. So go slow. The darken area is plenty deep that wet sanding etc doesn't cut through it. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Paul, Looks amazing! jeffe opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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Thanks for the help--that'll go in the tool box--lord knows I've got enough flawed wood.... Jay Kolbe | |||
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Could you describe -in detail- where the flaw is ´cause I don´t see it. | |||
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Try this one. The flaw is in the dark area almost dead center. It starts at the center of the top edge and goes down almost 1.5". As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Outstanding match. Beautiful work. My hat goes off to you for the immaculate job and to Chic for him sharing his techniques. Thanks! Focus on the leading edge! | |||
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I hope Chic is just on vacation and hasn't stopped posting here. I would like his comments. The only comment I have id DAMN! I hope to be that good. Great job. Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | |||
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Ramrod, you did a great job on both the repair and the stock in general. Nice work and good perseverence. I was glad to be able to help you and Brian. | |||
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Thanks, Believe me I couldn't have done it without your advice. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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