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Removing the finish from a glossy Browning stock
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I know I've seen this before on this forum, but I did a search and couldn't find it. Does anyone have any experience with removing the high-gloss finish from a Browning A-Bolt stock? What is that stuff anyway, poly urethane maybe? I didn't like the way it looked so much when it was new, but now every little scratch looks like hell. I want to strip it off then refinish the wood if I can.

Thanks!
 
Posts: 66 | Location: Cheyenne, WY | Registered: 15 August 2003Reply With Quote
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get some 000 steel wool and rub the finish hard. It'll remove some of the light scratches and reduce the shine. It just might save you a lot of refinishing.
 
Posts: 770 | Location: colorado | Registered: 11 August 2003Reply With Quote
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Did both my BLR's with 0000 steel wool, Nice matte finish, although in the year 2040 someone will wonder why some idiot screwed up the finish on a classic gun.
 
Posts: 1692 | Location: East Coast | Registered: 06 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Here is what I did on my Weatherby that had a super glossy finish similar to what Browning uses.

Take 0000 steel wool and natural Watco Danish Oil. Dip the steel wool into the oil so it is very wet and keep it that way through the whole process. Buff out the entire stock in a circular motion. The oil acts as lubricant to the steel wool and will prevent any scratches or scuffs from the steel wool from showing. Once you have gone over the entire stock, wipe it dry and repeat just to make sure you have an even buff. Wipe the stock completely dry and buff with a dry cloth.

You will end up with a very nice soft satin finish that looks and feels very nice. And like mentioned above, it will do wonders to hide minor scratches and dings. My Weatherby was looking pretty haggard until I did this to it and it DRAMATICALLY improved it.


William Berger

True courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway. - John Wayne

The courageous may not live forever, but the timid do not live at all.
 
Posts: 3155 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
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Someone posted a "Stripper" they used for this... i think that coating, and the one on the shinny winchesters, must be left over surface coating for alien spacecraft... harder than HECK.. and 24hours of citristrip just dulled it.

jeffe


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Posts: 39719 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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That is excellent advise. I removed the finish from a Browning B-78 once-upon-a-time. Never again. Many applications of paint/varnish stripper and much elbow grease. Cussing didn't even help much!
Browning's finish is epoxy-like in nature. If I were to do another, I would consider a long immerssion in acetone to soften it enough to scrape it.
 
Posts: 332 | Location: Annapolis,Md. | Registered: 24 January 2006Reply With Quote
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gnoahh, I'm a little confused (a common state of affairs). Which advise did you mean is excellent? Using the steel wool wetted in oil?

Thanks to everyone for their comments.
 
Posts: 66 | Location: Cheyenne, WY | Registered: 15 August 2003Reply With Quote
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I sure would try the steel wool and oil before I attempted to remove the finish. If the first doesn't work there is always the removal. If you start the removal you are committed.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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OOOO steel wool and Danish Oil. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Posts: 332 | Location: Annapolis,Md. | Registered: 24 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Could someone please post a pic of what the steel wool and oil looks like on a Browning stock?


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Posts: 194 | Location: Copperhead Road | Registered: 11 March 2005Reply With Quote
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To remove the finish so you can start from scratch use Jasco paint and epoxy stripper. I get it at Home Depot. Wear gloves, long sleeves and safety glasses as this stuff really burns. It will also melt many plastic containers so use a glass jar if you want to work from a smaller container. Brush it on with natural bristle brush and let it sit for ten minutes or so, then use a putty knife to scrape it off. May need to do it twice, then rinse well with warm water. I've refinished many Brownings using Jasco.


John Farner

If you haven't, please join the NRA!
 
Posts: 2946 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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I've done Browning's and Remington BDL's with Citristrip and it took the finish right off. Slop the citristrip on thick, wrap it in aluminum foil, wait 30 minutes and work it off with a stiff nylon bristle brush and a little more stripper to loosen it up. I have had to reapply only once and it was on a Remington BDL stock that I didn't wait long enough on the first coat.

Good luck,
Weagle
 
Posts: 737 | Location: atlanta ga | Registered: 11 August 2002Reply With Quote
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What and where is watco danish oil?
 
Posts: 3563 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 02 August 2004Reply With Quote
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I was talking to a rep from Devoe industrial coatings a while back and he confirmed that Weatherby bought a catalyzed clear epoxy from them for their rifles during one era or another. It needs a true epoxy stripper or mechanical scrapers. When Weatherby quit buying it they discontinued the formula.


"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
 
Posts: 11142 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Fish30114:
What and where is watco danish oil?


It's an oil type finish that is mostly used in finishing furniture and fine woodworking. Just about any good paint store should carry it. Watco is the brand.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks Craigster.
 
Posts: 3563 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 02 August 2004Reply With Quote
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